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In the car I used to charge my laptops with laptop-specific boost power supplies like these, https://www.amazon.co.uk/TAIFU-Universal-12V-24V-Pavilion-Thinkpad/dp/B07W5DD6M9/ (not a recommendation). The one I had has a switch for output voltage (16~22V ish) and has several times had a different plug soldered on the end as laptops come and go. My current laptop will take a 19V barrel connector or standard USB C power delivery. This is really neat and more kit will be going the USB C way. After using an Apple USB PD charger for a while, I realised that this combination is really useful - 12v to 24v boost converter e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=24v+boost+converter . The ones sealed into a heatsink case are especially nice, but anything that gives 21~30V will do. a USB PD3 / QC4 board e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09658Z4FF/ Assuming you're happy to wire up stuff like this. The board will need some physical protection - mine are currently just in heatshrink, and they do put out a little heat while running so you can't box them in completely. You can run the PD3 board off 12V, and you can charge a phone at 5V with the standard USB A or USB C connectors whatever supply voltage the board has (in its range). It will auto-negotiate, that is what the USB Power Delivery and Quick Charge standards do. However these boards can only "buck" down, it won't "boost" up. Therefore a laptop which wants 20V to charge needs the PD3 board to be fed by a 24V-ish supply. This was my important realisation for laptop-in-car usage, which means my old laptop PSU is obsolete. Other things to consider, The 24V boost converter I have uses about 12mA when idle. There will also be conversion inefficiencies, probably about 85% but I haven't checked. The PD3 board also has an idle current, if you don't switch it off when not using it. You can unsolder the LEDs to save some idle power but that doesn't make a huge difference. There is some protection from having the input to the 12-to-24 boost converter fused, and it has a limited current output, but you still want a suitable fuse and fat-ish wire for the PD3. Laptops are going to draw several amps of 24V, so check the maximum power given by the factory charger. Lots of other USB charged kit I have only needs 5V. The supplies for these are often marked "5V 2.4A" or similar, and as long as the cable & fuse are good they're perfectly suitable for charging phones and stuff off the boat. Modern / hungry phones though will benefit from QC or PD supplies, and the Android tablets I have won't charge off 5V non-QC. In my case I've also switched the fridge over to 24V supply, because it can take it. There is no point doing 12-to-24 at the bow so I just have one run down the boat at 24V, but the cost/benefit of this doesn't add up by itself. The fridge already had a fat 8AWG cable, so 12V losses are not huge The idle current of the 24V supply is always-on, while the fridge is mostly off, so that's wasted The boost inefficiency means the largest low voltage power user might actually be using more If it was important I would take some measurements...

Does anyone have any experience with IBS inverters? At £1,764 inc VAT for a 1600W PSW it seems good value and it can handle starting loads up to 4.5kW. I particularly like the fact that it can power a Nespresso! http://www.tbruk.com/us16012v--us16024v-inverter-4753-p.asp It's made in Switzerland.

I have just purchased 4*250w 24v panels and a 40a MPPT controller(tracer 4215BN). I am running a 24v 460amp batteries (4*12v 230amp in series and parallel). Which would you suggest as the best way to set up the panels with the Controller? Max voltage or maximum amps? Or split 2 and 2?

Hi everyone, I've read many posts relating to this but what I have seems slightly different...but only slightly. i have just bought a boat that with the exception of having a split charge diode arrangement seemed to have its charging regime all figured out. Battery Banks: 1 port battery 12v 2 tabs battery 12v 3 house system 12v 4 diesel heater 24v both the engines appear to be put through a split charge diode to charge the house system and their respective starting batteries which Is leading to a lower voltage than I'd like which assuming is volt drop across the diode at the house system. The 24v system is charged by a 12v - 24v battery charger by sterling. The house system has a sterling inverter charger fitted. My question is what is the best set up for this so that I can charge batteries from either engine? I was originally thinking a sterling 2 input 4 output. Zero volt drop splitter....but with the battery to battery charger is that actually the best. As I have now also seen alternator to battery chargers that split the charge and claim to fully load the alternator or similar to charge quicker. I'm sure everyone has a different view based on their own ideals or good experience but would very much value your input. thanks Dave

Hi I curently have a small sysytem at my cottage that due to the equipment that I had available runs on -24V panels (440 watts) then is converted to 12 v at the charge controller then stored in a 12 volt battery array made up of 6 75ah batteries ( 450 ah total) I had a 12 v to 120 inverter that converted the power to run my cottage lights and appliances. Given that my inverter has malfuntioned, i need to buy another inverter. I am considering buying a 24v as I heard that they are more efficient (however more costly). What are the pro and cons of switching and exactly how musgh more efficeint is it to switch from 12 to 24 volts. I know that a 24 volt inverter would be about 2 times the cost and I will have to buy another charging unit if I want to charge the batteries. If it really worth it to switch from 12v to 24 volt arrays for batteries?