PaulJ

Well its another Sabb- a 30 hp 2J-HR- but inside which is even pornier I reckon 1st pic engine in situ but with fuel pump cover removed, heads,pistons and rods removed etc .Two round holes in the centre are where the fuel pumps fit into and are driven straight off the camshaft. 2nd pic shows the inside of the fuel pump cover- governer top left and lift pump bottom right with fuel pumps and mechanism in centre. No need to readjust anything- remove fuel pipes and it just unbolts and bolts back on. Brilliant! 3rd pic showing pistons and rods- the big end shells on these engines are an impressive 10mm thick! Well it impressed me anyhow.

I have a copy of a oil dilution in Listers pdf that is quite useful.Cant remember where from but not mine.Not sure what the protocol is about posting it here though? Can I pm it?

Probably wiser to empty the tank and then run off a temporary tank until you can get it repaired. Think even underwater epoxy may struggle sticking to diesel coated steel.

Totally.It is alot of work-especially as you have 12. Think Id bribe someone with access to a laser cutter with alcohol...

Why not cut out a sort of huge washer-fitted between porthole glass and pigeon box- it wouldnt have to be particulary thick and would act as a glass retainer and something to seal to.

Ooops. Yep thats what I meant really

Assuming this murky water isnt coming from your cold water supply and that is clear. Brownish water does sound a bit rusty though? I got a suprising amount of scale out the bottom of my (not that old) calorifier a little while back. I removed the immersion from the bottom and vaccumed it all out. If you are in a soft water area there is not alot you can do about it- its same as your kettle :-)

I have the 2000SE - its ok and runs every thing other than my washing machine (which still uses the element to heat the water). I decided I was better off using this size generator and utilising the power assist on my Victron for the washing machine. I dont know how much the 3000 weighs but the 2000 is heavy enough-if you struggle to use the recoil then lugging it about may be a bit of a problem.

Goba has an 'interactive map' here https://www.goba.org.uk/main.php?section=The_Great_Ouse|Cruising_Info I couldnt get it to display properly on my phone though.

There you go- http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1882/product/hf-462.aspx

After 16 years your ply hasnt done too bad. I would use wbp ply again but give it several coats of West Epoxy before painting it. Will last even longer then

If its 40ft x 9ft I wouldnt have thought 50 hp was overkill (unless you are a bit throttle happy). Id guess at a 40hp 4 stroke being usable. But its just that- a guess.Id still rather spend my money on an inboard though. And a boat better suited to a canal :-D

Sorted! So All good☺

My low level vents are ducted to bilge , behind the linings, from the front cabin bulkhead (approx 8 inches above the front deck) instead of being in the front doors. All my ballast sits on blocks and there is a two inch air gap above the ballast with all the floor bearers running down the boat.Appliances like cookers/ fridges have air holes cut directly below them into the floor so constantly draw up the cooler air. Copper central heating pipes are run at floor level (but open to the bilges) and also draw air from the bilges when the heating is on. Been like that for some twenty odd years now and I have to say the bilges are probably the best bit of my boat and the only bit thats better than younger ones!

An interesting article. If you dont get a copy soon let me know- I should be able to either scan/pdf or send photo of article to you .