adrianh

With Smarty the contract can lay dormant for up to 6 months before you need to pay again. However you do need to remember to switch off the payment auto renewal shortly after making your current payment by credit card or you will continue to pay ! Each month you can change what you pay for, the phone contracts are better value than data only contracts. Works well for me.

I have the Cointra and it works very well on a 40ft boat feeding sinks or shower ( not both at the same time ! ) This was fitted about 5 years ago to replace a very old Valiant instant heater. It has self contained battery ignition so no gas used by a permanent pilot light. This was purchased from a supplier of static caravan parts in South Wales and also had an adapter for different flues if you are using your original flue and a mounting frame adapter as I think as it is smaller than old heaters.

Your biggest problem will be matching the flow relative to the pressure so that you get anything like the values that the old shurflo pump produced. Old Shurflo pumps seemed to be much better at producing the rated flow than modern pumps are, they are usually marked in US gallons per min This can be an issue if you have an instant water heater feeding a shower, particularly if this is thermostatically controlled. Whilst your old pump works still, measure the flow rate at the taps and shower head. A 1 litre jug and stopwatch on your phone plus a bit of maths will give you flow in litres per min. I have juggled pumps and makes but never quite been able to match the original shurflo characteristics. I have also had issues with the Jabsco blue pipe holding clips working loose. This allows the suction connection to work loose resulting in air through the pump then a tank full of water in the bilge, so always use insulating tape to hold them in place now. Lastly the pressure switches in the pump have a very short life and the setting slowly changes as they bed in.

Unless things have changed link belts are not really suitable for a multi belt drive. My experience of them industrially was a 'quick fix' then having to remove links frequently as the belts stretched. On a multi belt drive belt wear and tension is critical to share the drive load equally between the 3 belts, this would be very difficult to achieve. I would expect a very short and troublesome life with this type of belt. If you are buying a set of 3 belts you need to ask the supplier for a matched set so that technically the all have the same circumference, if not you can get 1 or 2 that will run loose and slap about. Cutting a belt and then measuring is the best you can do but you have to take of an allowance for stretch due to usage. Old style belts generally went up in 1 inch increments, ie might be marked B40 or C40 for instance. The top width of the grooves on the pulley usually define the belt type. Lastly avoid cheap makes

Yes and more than one, with the correct preparation on the primer and between every coat. Also the correct paint thickness and drying time dependent on the weather etc

Be aware that if you take power from 2 independent sockets on a bollard they could be feed from different phases off a 3 phase supply. This would mean that you will need to be very careful with connections on the boat as you now have the possibility of around 400 volts between the incoming live wires should any neutral fault occur. The 2nd feed would need its own dedicated galvanic isolator but I am not sure technically how well this will work as the 2nd supply can create more/alternative stray earth paths. I am a bit puzzled as to how the inverter rating fits in? I assume that the 1st land line gives you a maximum of 16amps, are you then trying to top this up with the 10 amps s available from the inverter ( a big continuous demand on your batteries )? Our home double fan oven does run of a 13 amp supply, this has a gas hob, so without any other heavy load 16 amps would do. However the bollard supply and its distance away from its feed point means this is not likely. Electric hobs have a much higher demand, at least 15 amps or a lot more. This is why a free standing cooker needs a 32amp supply. I would ask a commercial ( not domestic ) electrical company for advice as they would be up to date with the regulations

I past by a week ago, as before the whole area is a total mess but now with the addition of the large square tent, outside kitchens and large amounts of ' rubbish ' on both sides of the towpath. The canal bank now has 3 trashed boats, 1 or 2 appeared to be lived in. The centre one has become Mr Wards floating junk store as was the last metal boat that was lifted out. For all the money spent little has been achieved so far accept to highlight what can be achieved if you just totally ignore the rules and all the conventions that others live by.

It was a limescale remover that caused my problem. Also sterilising the water tank and adding 1 tablet too many caused a problem

I don't know about the filter but found a couple of years ago that odourless stopped working and was told it had been changed. Now using biological toilet additive without any issue. I did have a similar problem years ago when strong cleaning product with a high bleach level got into the tank and killed the enzymes. This took several pump outs before things got back to normal.

Plenty of 12 volt delay timers on ebay although some will need an enclosure box. Broyce manufacture DIN mounted timers ( they fit standard domestic type fuse enclosures ) that operate on 12 volts dc also others if you search

I had EE via plusnet until they closed this service recently. EE wanted silly money to continue using them so now have EE by using RWG mobile payg monthly service at reasonable price. Smarty/ 3 signal strength on my wifes phone does seem to vary a large amount more than EE signal on mine

Also beware of the very light duty spring washers now sold that wind open under a cap screw head. Better to use 5/16 x 1inch long ( i think) 8.8 or 10.9 grade setscrews and the heavy duty flatter appearance spring washers if you can find them. I have seen suppliers of fixings for old classic cars that still list proper old stock fixings, google ford and other american car parts as they used unf still when others had gone metric. Check your local ford spares garage. UNF screws are marked with 3 ' spoke type ' lines or a series of small circles on the head or a recess in the middle of the head and generally are 1/2 af hexagon . If all else fails try a car breakers yard!

Interesting as last weekend a new boat was moored by the tent and looks to be loaded with rubbish all ready, so the tent may already be surplus

Try putting two saw cuts from outside diameter of the collet partly through the brass so that it can squeeze onto the rod easier. Space them at approx 180 degrees . Alternatively find somebody with a lathe to make you some collets from nylon, a softer material will deform and grip easier

Be very careful trying to lever the glass up without removing the rubber cord first. My glass shattered when I tried this. The breakage meant the window had to be removed, dismantled at the top corners ( old BA thread screws and 1/8 dia pop rivets ) and toughened shaped glass obtained ( took about 10 days to get. Also the rubber cord needs to be quite a soft grade of EPDM grade rubber ( called 40 shore hardness). Can you post more pictures to show which rubber you are looking.

Braided PVC pipe is not really suitable for an engine cooling system as it softens when hot and antifreeze can affect the plastic making it go brittle and crack if flexing. You ideally want marine grade fabric reinforced coolant hose, this is measured by the ID ( internal diameter ), usually 1.25 or 1.5 inch on a boat. Try Pirtek or any large supplier of industrial hoses or marine supplier for this grade. The corrugated version is more normal to the larger vehicle side of the motor trade so you could try any fleet vehicle garage or large plant hire company. Always use quality stainless steel jubilee clips, 2 per end if you have room. If you are draining down it is a good time for fresh antifreeze mixed with deionized water ( or the more expensive premixed type), always premix before adding, max 50:50 mix.

Yesterday only a very few moorings within a mile of Bradford on Avon lock each way as everything is populated with the continuous moorer brigade again. All visitor moorings at Dundas also filled, so if you are on a hire boat currently mooring not easy. Also told by a passer by that the Cross Guns Avoncliff was not doing food, I have heard this a few times recently. Heading on towards Bath soon so hopefully it is clearer there!

If you have bought new led lights the may be polarity sensitive so the positive has to match up. With a multimeter if you measure 12volts dc and the meter shows a negative voltage then the meter red ( positive ) is connected to the negative feed wire. Check this out at the battery to see what I mean. You may also find that a low rating fuse has been added to each light feed ( mine are behind the removable wooden strip at the top of the wall panels). This is preferred by some as the wiring into led lights is often very thin and rated well below the supply fuse rating so a potential fire risk, mine are fused at 3 amps to each light feed from a common domestic style wall switch.

It is rare for a hydraulic hose to bulge and burst ( also very dangerous as you get a fine oil jet that will go through flesh and a vapour that can ignite very easily ). The more normal failure point is an end fitting blowing off the rubber hose. Hose that are old and have been running with excessively hot oil ( what is your oil temperature? ) which causes the rubber to age harden are a common failure point. If you have very long hoses to your bow thruster then a double cross line pressure relief at both ends will protect the hoses better. Set these as close as possible above the system pressure. The comment multi spiral is what I referred to in my earlier post, I have updated the details as I think R12 or 13 is this type of construction. To check the burst pressure you need to know the hose size and the type of fittings attached. A good supplier will do a full pressure test prior to delivery.

If you have peak pressures as high as that then the hoses need to be spiral reinforced, R12 or R13 grade I think - R2 are the cheaper lower pressure grade normally supplied ( will be marked along the hose ) This type have heavier crimped on end fittings that can resist pulsating/surge pressures with a hose construction that does not expand as much when under pressure. It is much better / cheaper to use steel tubes for long runs with short hoses at each end, but the end of the tubes either need to finish with a securely mounted bulkhead fittings at the hose start point or heavy duty 2 bolt plastic pipe clamps. Also all hoses last longer if they have a slight curve and can move freely when pressurised. Construction plant hydraulics tend to work with high pressure pumps so are a good thing to copy, they also use JIC spec hose ends as I believe this perform better

These look like standard Rawlplug toggle fixings so should be easy to get from any DIY store. Suggest that you change the threaded screws for stainless, the toggle part is plated steel so will not last forever! Check the thread diameter also, standard screws are for a screwdriver but yours could be a different type.

Plastic coated P clips with a single screw hole are used in the electrical world for fire alarm systems. They come in orange or white i think. Look for one suitable for 8mm ( pyro ? ) cable

Measure the outside diameter of the thread and the number of threads per inch to check the thread. It does look like 3/4 bsp though. You can buy stainless steel industrial heaters this size in various lengths, voltage and wattages but they do require a separate on/off temperature control system. I think that you could use a strap on pipe thermostat ( drayton, honeywell ? ) for this purpose on the upstand pipe for the heater. Alternative would be a capillary thermostat ( capillary with 2 straps to upstand and fully lagged ) safely mounted in an electrical enclosure box. In both cases check current ratings and wire with high temperature cabling etc. Ask if you want more info

Timeguard make a time clock with built in thermostat that is battery powered and would be a direct replacement for the old Danfoss unit . It is slightly larger and needs access on the left to change the batteries annually ( 2 x aa type ) I have this at home and the old danfoss with mikuni on the boat, they both work using similar programming format.

If you are replacing the copper pipe then try and use a new length of tube end to end. The added weight of the unsupported pipe coupler is adding to your problem and increasing the likely hood of a pipe fracture. If this is a 1/4 inch od copper pipe then you can purchase the thick wall ( sorry can't remember the spec) and barrel olives from chandlers. The Boatyard at Staverton on the K and A have this and sell on line. Take care not to overtighten olives on reassembly