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About adrianh

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  • Boat Location
    kennet and avon

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  1. I used to have them until the boat safety deemed that they had insufficient air flow to match my appliances some 20 years after the boat was built! Had to change them all to mushrooms which do drip condensation occasionally
  2. Rudder bearing symptoms?

    You need to use a water resistant grease such as stern tube grease, Castrol LM ( Lithium based hence the "L" ) is not water resistant and actually absorbs water, so will reduce the life of your bearing. If you are fitting a new bearing avoid the cheaper Chinese option if you want it to last, I can buy inserts for these for around £5! Depending on the manufacturer, you can buy just buy the insert to fit your existing housing - measure the shaft size accurately as you may have english or metric . You may need heat on the rudder stock taper boss if this was fitted hot or a bang with a lump hammer may suffice to free it when the nut is off. Give all the bolts and bearing a soak with diesel to free rust and remove all paint etc from the shaft with abrasive cloth or tape. Before you undo the bearing bolts loosen the 2 grub screws in the bearing and lift the rudder up enough to remove rust/ paint on the shaft that is tight to the bearing. If you can, lift it enough rub out the grub screw indents from the shaft. It is often these marks that make removal difficult. If corrosion is bad then be prepared to split the cast iron housing and then the bearing, using a small angle grinder and thin cutting disc. Most importantly do not shear the bearing mount bolts or studs off if they are tight. If they do not immediately undo, strike the bolt heads or nuts down to break rust in the thread. If this does not work then, if you have studs and nuts, carefully drill the nuts to split them. If you have bolts, cut the heads off with a grinder then soak the remaining thread with diesel and hopefully you can wind it out with grips or small stillsons
  3. Additional heating for cruiser

    Yes, I have made a good living from this as well as the more complicated for the past 45 years. It keeps the brain working even when the body begins to struggle! Engineering is in my blood
  4. Additional heating for cruiser

    You could use a slightly different circuit to give either hot water heating, boat heating or both combined. Either use a 3 port valve with a 'T' type flow rating ( ie p to a, p to a and b when central or p to b port) . Alternatively use 2 on/off valves to select either or both circuits. Use full flow ball valves, they are available as manual lever valves or with 12 volt electric actuators ( look for solar power range). Fit the valving in the flow just after the engine. If you increase the coolant volume to much you may have to add an additional expansion reservoir or expansion accumulator with a low precharge. Don't forget the antifreeze, premix at max 40%. I have the 2 valve setup on a small kubota engine ( as beta) and find the engine water pump gives adequate circulation although I have used 22mm copper as much as possible to reduce friction losses. I have 2 heat sources, engine or mikuni suppling radiators only controlled via thermostat and electric actuator valves, slightly complicated but it is what I do for a living! My hot water is from an instant gas heater.
  5. It can be dangerous to completely fill the system without knowing if a pressure release cap is fitted. At the moment an air space will allow the water pressure to rise without doing to much damage. Excess pressure will probably burst something or damage the engine pump seal. Use vehicle type heater hose (5/8 or 3/4" bore) from suitable brass hose adapters on the engine. It is best to terminate these at some sort of fixed ' bulkhead' type fitting not to far from the engine, then use whatever pipe suits you with the correct sleeves fitted internally. Plastic pipe is best cut with the proper tool to make sure you do not damage the O ring seal on assembly. If the hoses can rub on anything use cable spiral wrap for protection.
  6. I used a brass plug with a flanged face and a locknut inside to blank my surplus hole, 1 inch bsp I think. If you want a really shallow waste for the main bowl then look at the caravan parts suppliers , they come with a 3/4 or 1" hose tail . A short 1" bore hose connection is ok. You can get similar connections for the 1/2 bowl but this will depend on if you have to use the waste disposal hole reducer, if so you will need a 90 degree x 1.5 inch to 1" hose adapter, probably in brass/bronze. Look at the pipe fittings on the ASAP site .
  7. Mikuni mx40

    The control box will not let the heater start without the glow plug añd pump connected. A self check cycle is built in prior to fire up enabled. It is important that the full battery voltage gets to the heater, so check for bad connections. Battery needs to give at least 12 volts at the heater .
  8. Moorings twixt Bath-Bristol

    BOA and ka good this time of year without the fleets of hire boats causing caous at the lock at weekends when the vlockies are absent. I live locally and have also heard nothing of trouble
  9. Temperature control switch wiring

    Any pipe stat will do the job although a bit ugly if you can see it. Alternative is a capillary thermost as used on older boilers rs733 4723 or similar. Non of these are deigned for a DC load so add a back emf diode across the contact or pump to reduce arcing when it turns off
  10. Volt/Ammeter meter ?

    I forgot to say in the earlier post that not all of the meters of the type as the first link can indicate a value for a negative current . For the meter in my later post I managed to get the Chinese supplier to send a slightly better translated instruction sheet by email.
  11. Webasto Thermotop C Fuel pump

    Don't run this type of pump dry as it will quickly destroy them by impact damage to the internal piston. Fill the pump and pipework before applying power.
  12. Volt/Ammeter meter ?

    I have had these for a couple of years but never managed to get the current side to work correctly. The shunts, available in higher currents than 100 amps, go in the negative and have no protection. The instructions suggest that they are fitted with a 12 volt voltage regulator in the power supply line to get steady readings. I am just changing to the Ah type meter of a similar size/style also on ebay. This has the shunt in a module and connects via a usb or wireless to the display, although the set up instructions are poor translations. Will post a link when I find it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-120V-300A-Wireless-Volt-Ammeter-Power-Meter-battery-Charge-discharge-capacity/172278832577?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  13. Petrol on the kennet and avon

    The nearest petrol as you enter bath is on the London Road 24 hrs station. Moor before the tunnels, walk up to the main road, go right, keep right along the main route passed the fire station up to the lights then right again. Probably best part of a mile. The next fuel is on the river just after the main road bridge. Duncan is up the track near the waste point then go left. Not sure if it is still open as I think it was for sale again
  14. Hurth HBW 400 & Obsolete Parts

    These sleeves are useful on a worn shaft if seals leak. It is not possible to use them on a worn shaft under a ball or roller bearing but I have seen them used inside a plain bearing as they increase the shaft size. Hopefully your problems will relate to worn or slack rolling bearings and just clutch pack problems. Gearboxes can almost always be repaired if you have the will and the funds!
  15. Link belt

    Similar types of belt are available from Bramber also fenner super t link and one from Rdg tools that might be better. These belts are not designed for a small pulley or high loads and always seem to stretch quickly. You could look at industrial auto belt tensioner by Rosta Look at transmission developments Web site for the chain version and change the sprocket for a pulley. Pm me if you need help with this