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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About namyar

  1. Gardner 4LW difficult to start

    I have been repairing and rebuilding Gardners for many years now and that is the first I have heard that priming to wash the oil from the cylinder walls to aid compression baffles me. Even if it is in someones "handbook" try and avoid doing it in the future. SOME decompressors have two positions, turn one way for normal inlet valve lift before swinging over--turn the other way and it drops the lifter at B.D.C thus allowing the engine to get a greater gulp of air. This does not alter the compression pressure, just the volume. Other heads have ratchet types which when set allow the cranker 12 turns of the handle before automaticly dropping off the ratchet. These heads were mainly on the 5-6 and 8LW without electric start. Gardner engines were supreme throughout the Pacific in all native run boats as they were considered absolutely "Kanaka" proof, next in popularity came the good old Lister-JK and JP, not those horrid little FR's though, a few Nationals but they were always bothered with displaced pushrods when over-reved like when dropping off a wave. Kelvins were never in the hunt, can't trust a native with petrol in a boat. regards Ray
  2. Gardner 4LW difficult to start

    Hi guys, I have been following this thread with interest. Some GARDNER history for the non-believers. L2 series introduced 1929 as a high speed marine unit 1300 rpm. LW series 1931 1700 rpm. L3 series 1930 marine only 900 rpm. LK series 1935 light goods and passenger vehicles high speed 2100 rpm. All series made under license by Bernard--France..LaMiese--Belgium and Kromhout in Holland. 4LK could be had with ---All alloy engine,valve clearance .002 both. C.I. engine--.008 in .012 ex C.I. block/alu head .003 in .006 ex Alu block/CI head .003 in /006 ex.----idle speed 450 rpm marine or 330 rpm vehicle. As a previous poster has said, the sprayers are retained just finger tight in the heads, they won't blow out. They also have an ecceedingly long needle which can be distorted when screwed down too tight so affecting the spray pattern. The "priming " handles on the fuel pump blocks is just for testing and SHOULD NOT be used prior to starting. THAT IS A JUST A LOAD OF RUBBISH that you are priming the cylinders. All you have been doing is washing the cylinder walls clean of oil. Gardner gearbox contains some serious iron in the way of planetary gears and bands all dragging in cold oil with some going in one direction and some in another. When you engage "AHEAD" this locks the whole thing in a mass, so making it easier to swing at cranking speed but make sure you either double up on the moorings or have a crewman stand by to disengage smartly.The hair dryer sounds a good idea but it will take some time to attain enough heat thru the heads.If it was my boat I would find a deep hole in the river, jam the bows in the bank and FLOG the daylights out of her for a day, really make that engine work and get some oil back into the skin of the pistons. remember they are lightweight aluminum, only weigh 3 1/2 lbs. each. Hope this helps. Ray