Nobag

I have the owners manual, but cannot attach it because it is in XPS format.

Thanks, its good to know that they run fairly quiet.

Yes, but i think when they reach the set temp they quieten down, lots of camper vans seem to have them. Thanks I have a cupboard where a Alde boiler used to live and was thinking it may be a suitable place, but not sure about the gas tight exhaust. Thanks

Hello, does anyone have their heater installed inside the living area of the boat, fitted with a gas tight exhaust connected to a skin fitting. I was thinking that if one was fitted in a central position, you could have air blown in both directions and not have cold spots in the boat. Looking on YouTube, there are a few videos showing these heaters with CO detectors installed on sea going boats and in what appears to be living space. Thanks for any Thoughts.

Out of interest, do you use any ducting inside the boat and if not how far does the warm air travel. Cheers

The council have put double yellow lines either side of all bridges on the G&S.

There is a nice pay & display car park at Saul Junction.

Screwfix do the filter cartridges.

Shut all the rads off except for one, see if you can get flow to that one.

Spect they pay extra for the recycling bin.

In Saul Junction they have 3 X 1100 bins in the car park. 2 general waste , 1 recycling. All emptied into the same lorry. How does that work.

Use exhaust paste on the joints.

If you connect the pump back up to the boiler and it still does not work properly, then I would think the PCB is faulty.

Close both radiator valves on each one to keep the antifreeze/water in, drain the 22mm loop into a container for reuse. Then do the bucket test from YouTube video. At least you can rule out a faulty heater or not.

All i can say is that i used this method to test mine before i fitted it to the boat. There are many video's on YouTube showing people testing these units.

Why don't you disconnect the two rubber hoses from the pipework and put them in a bucket of water and then run the heater. just to check it will fire up and run.

Thanks, I going to refit it tomorrow. Might be lucky.

Thanks, the engine was running around 1300 rpm . The problem that I have is that to get the alternator started, I have to run the engine at very high revs which I would rather not do, especially when it is starting from cold.

Thanks, the voltage is around 13.8 and 27 amps when first started. The fan belt is tight about half inch free play. If I touch a wire from the battery positive to the D+ the alternator starts working and the warning light goes out on tickover.

I have to rev the Barrus Shire engine quite fast to get the alternator working. I have put a larger 4w bulb in to try and boost the voltage from the charge light circuit. Checking the voltage at the alternator it was 1.45v on the charge light circuit, when I disconnected the wire from the alternator I got battery voltage. Is there a fix for this or is it new alternator time. Thanks for any help.

Yes I think this is just for the engine. (In reply to #18)

I think this one is the correct item. "129155-49800 Thermostat"