monkeyhanger

I'm considering a Wash crossing sometime in August. Last time I did it (Boston to Denver sluice, which I'd like to repeat), I crossed the Middle Level, entering at Salter's Lode. I believe that this way is now impassible. I'd like to have a look at the Great Ouse, but not sure of the route back to Peterborough to access the Nene. Any recommendations for maps and recommended routes, please?

I was going to contact Daryl soon to express an interest in an end July/ sometime August trip. Prefer earlier rather then later, because I'd like to visit the Ouse. I did the crossing Boston to Denver with Daryl about 5 years ago, and my kids have expressed a desire to experience it.

I have had an Aquafilta on my drinking water tap for 30 years now. Replacement filters are starting to become expensive, so I am considering changing the complete unit for something more up to date. Are today's water filters better than my Aquafilta? The replacement filters certainly seem cheaper. If I do change my complete unit, which one should I go for? Any advice gratefully received.

That's sad to hear. I don't think he was that old. When I was building my own JP2 in the late 80's, I often used to visit Uxbridge to collect parts. More often than not I would call in at the "Shovel" for a pint, and more often than not Neil would be in there. As he was then the owner of "Baltic" which had a JP2 in it, we got to chatting, and our conversations would go on for some time. The last time I saw him, he said (as I recall) that he was moving to the West Country. RIP old friend. Nah, it'll never leave the East End.

When I was in Stourport in July, diesel was 99p per litre at Limekiln chandlers. The wholesale price has dropped quite a bit since then. Try a phone call?

For information.....Alvecote Marina has a pumpout machine and also sells diesel. The facilities are on the towpath side just by the small bridge.

I need just the banjo fitting. It's for a fuel line from my duplex filter to the injector pump. I've got a slight weep which I can't cure. I'll try MES. Thanks.

Can anyone advise me where I can buy a 1/2 inch BSP banjo fitting please. Somewhere in East London would be perfect!

Just found this thread, so my comment may not now be totally relevant. Yes, it was Neil who put the JP in. As I recall, it came from a fishing boat on the south coast. I suspect it had been sunk for some time as the engine surfaces were quite pitted. ( and probably still are)

Many thanks for that. I've just collected the motor after it's been checked. Brushes OK, bearings oiled, found some rust on what looks to be an earth strap. It's now time to reassemble the pump and get it back to the boat. Fingers crossed!

The motor is at a specialist at the moment, being checked out, but since I dismantled everything it has occurred to me that there may be a dodgy connection somewhere. How would I check the voltage under load, please? Put a multimeter across the choc block terminals while the pump is running? I assume it should show 24v (I have a 24v system)

Good thinking. I'll try that when I'm next on the boat.

Because it stopped working last summer as efficiently as it had done previously, I stripped it down over the winter, also cleaned out all the pipework in case there was a blockage, and cleaned everything inside the pump before reassembly. No leaks, but still not as powerful as it used to be. My initial thoughts were that the brushes in the motor may be on their last legs, but it has been suggested to me that the diaphragm may be tired. I've found a diaphragm on the internet for £50, or a complete set of rubber bits for £80. I'm reluctant to pay that sort of money, when the parts may not actually need replacing, and I DO HAVE a gulper as a spare. However this Par pump has done sterling service for 25 years or so, and in a way, I've grown attached to it.

I have a Par bilge pump, model 36680-0010, which I use to empty my shower. It is the one with the motor mounted above the main pump body, and the pump action is belt driven onto an eccentric driving a piston up and down to create the pumping action. The pump has lost quite a bit of its oomph. Someone has suggested that I need to replace the pumping diaphragm. Jabsco says parts are not available, but I suspect that someone will have a spare diaphragm in their oddments box. Or can someone direct me to a chandlery which may have new old stock? I know that people will say "change it for a gulper", but that will involve changes to pipework which I am reluctant to undertake at the moment. The Par pump has been brilliant for 25 years and I'm keen to hang on to it.

I am familiar with the boat(s) I think you are referring to. The two hulls were held together by wooden beams which could be removed to separate the hulls for docking. I wonder if this is the boat the OP is now referring to?

Where did you buy it at £1.04 please?

20230205_141507.jpg Hope this works. Sorry it took a while. Not a good photo, but it's not easy to fit a boat of that size into a small phone!

Has anyone experienced problems getting a boat through these locks recently? I saw a post on Facebook a couple of days ago, which appeared to show a converted Town class boat being towed backwards out of one of the locks. Unfortunately the captions didn't make the situation clear.

Try Alvecote Marina. Speak to Lawrence. He may be able to help.

I've heard a rumour that there may be problems on the horizon for Cavalcade this year. I heard that the London Waterbus Company is refusing to give up its moorings on the south side of the pool for the duration of the festival, as they have done for each of the 20-odd years that I've been going. If this is true, it will cause all sorts of problems trying to accommodate all of the 120 or so boats due to turn up. Has anyone else heard this?

It should have a gasket.---if you can get one! Be VERY careful removing the side door and you may not damage it. I bought a roll of gasket paper and make all my own.

I converted mine from dry to wet sump, as I didn't have an oil tank. I just poured the oil through the opening created when I took the side door off until it was at an appropriate level. I had already made a dipstick, so I marked it at 1, 2 and 3 gallon levels for checking purposes. Initially I put in 3 gallons, but as I put a squirt of oil on the valve gear every day, I now fill to 2/12 gallons and the daily squirt from the oil can gradually tops up the sump. What oil are you using? I used to use Morris's, but I now have a paper oil filter in the sump so that I can use cheap ( well, not really, perhaps cheap-er) Halfords 20-50.

I have a wet sump JP2. I put about 12 litres in.Make sure you don't put too much in so that the crank touches the oil.

The large plate on the starboard side of the engine. It sometimes has the decompressors in it. 8 brass domed nuts. The cam cover is the smaller one to the rear of it. You don't need to remove that one.