monkeyhanger

20230205_141507.jpg Hope this works. Sorry it took a while. Not a good photo, but it's not easy to fit a boat of that size into a small phone!

Has anyone experienced problems getting a boat through these locks recently? I saw a post on Facebook a couple of days ago, which appeared to show a converted Town class boat being towed backwards out of one of the locks. Unfortunately the captions didn't make the situation clear.

Try Alvecote Marina. Speak to Lawrence. He may be able to help.

I've heard a rumour that there may be problems on the horizon for Cavalcade this year. I heard that the London Waterbus Company is refusing to give up its moorings on the south side of the pool for the duration of the festival, as they have done for each of the 20-odd years that I've been going. If this is true, it will cause all sorts of problems trying to accommodate all of the 120 or so boats due to turn up. Has anyone else heard this?

It should have a gasket.---if you can get one! Be VERY careful removing the side door and you may not damage it. I bought a roll of gasket paper and make all my own.

I converted mine from dry to wet sump, as I didn't have an oil tank. I just poured the oil through the opening created when I took the side door off until it was at an appropriate level. I had already made a dipstick, so I marked it at 1, 2 and 3 gallon levels for checking purposes. Initially I put in 3 gallons, but as I put a squirt of oil on the valve gear every day, I now fill to 2/12 gallons and the daily squirt from the oil can gradually tops up the sump. What oil are you using? I used to use Morris's, but I now have a paper oil filter in the sump so that I can use cheap ( well, not really, perhaps cheap-er) Halfords 20-50.

I have a wet sump JP2. I put about 12 litres in.Make sure you don't put too much in so that the crank touches the oil.

The large plate on the starboard side of the engine. It sometimes has the decompressors in it. 8 brass domed nuts. The cam cover is the smaller one to the rear of it. You don't need to remove that one.

I believe it's at Rothen's as well. From what I remember, it needs a lot of work on it,

I run it on Halfords 20-50, as I have converted it to wet sump and have an oil filter fitted.When the engine is really hot the pressure is probably around 10lb

My JP's oil pressure gauge reads 18lbs when warm and underway. I've got the water pump off at the moment, so access to my oil pump is easy. Is it worth turning the adjusting screw a bit to get the pressure up to 20lb? If so, do I screw it in or out, and by how much.? I should mention that the big end shells were replaced 3 years ago, and the main bearings 2 years before that.

On my JP2 the throttle rod used to rub on the brass guide fastened to the crankcase door, and this had the effect of making the tickover very erratic. I changed the rod for a short length of chromed chain from B&Q, and hey presto! ...... nice steady idle.

I've managed to remove broken taps in the past by sliding a couple of nails down the flutes and twisting them back and forth with a pair of pliers so as to unscrew the tap. Take your time over it and you'll get there. Good luck.

I've been with "Nautical Insurance" of Leigh on Sea for at least 15 years. I'd highly recommend them. They paid up within a couple of days when I bent my prop and needed a couple of drydockings to sort it.

The other is "Wingfield Castle" which is moored in Hartlepool , where the three of them were built. She's awaiting restoration, which , sadly, seems a long time coming as she's laid there unloved for quite a few years now.

That's the injector cleaner apparently

Well, I've ordered a window curtain cable, and I've spoken to a guy at Marine 16. He says that their Diesel Injector Cleaner will remove all harmful deposits from my fuel system WITHOUT having to dismantle it and physically clean it. However, now that my system is in bits anyway, I figure that I'll clear the pipes by hand first, use bleach on it, then add the injector cleaner when it's back up and running. Belt and Braces, eh? Thanks very much to all the people who have contributed with ideas and information. Hopefully what I'm doing will sort the problems I've had. I will endeavour to report back some time in the future (2023 cruising season) to let you know how it went. Thanks again, everyone!

That looks useful! Thanks for the info.

Because of the way my system is designed, with a couple of air bleed points, air locks won't ( well shouldn't) be a problem. I may be able to borrow a "Pela" oil extractor which may help to do the job of flushing through. Sadly not. The bends in the final 6 inches are very tight.

I have 2 short section of about 2 feet each, both of which are reasonably accessible, and I should be able to clean these two OK. However, the longest pipe is about 8 feet long, with a couple of sharp 90 degree bends where it approaches the CAV filter. This is the one which concerns me most. I can blow through the pipe quite easily, and I have pushed a length of 1.5 electrical cable along it, but it only goes as far as the bendy bit, which is, to be fair, only about six inches from the end of the pipe. I haven't had the chance to flush it through yet, as I need a small funnel to help fill it. As I am typing this, I've had an idea! If I were to block the lower end, then fill it with a bleach solution, leave it overnight, say, then flush it through with water, then clean diesel, that might do the job. I still like the idea of being able to physically manually clean the pipe, but I fear it may not be possible. What do people think?

I regularly use Marine 16, and will continue doing so, but since at the moment I have access to both ends of the 3 sections of fuel line that I have, I was hoping to clean them out totally. If Marine 16 will do that (eventually) then great, but it would be nice to see them shiny clean before I put things back together.I was hoping that someone may know of a small bottle brush with a long shaft which may do the job. Perhaps as Tracy D'arth suggests, bleach is the answer.

I've had a problem with sludge in my day tank caused by diesel bug, and have removed the tank to clean it out. I've also disconnected my fuel lines and ascertained that they are not blocked, but there seems to be a fine layer of black something on the walls inside them. If I were to reassemble everything, I'm sure that there'd be no problem with getting the engine to run, but I'm concerned that, over time, whatever is inside the fuel lines may eventually multiply and cause a blockage. Removing the fuel lines completely is not an option due to the way the system has been assembled. Does anyone have a suggestion as to something I could run through the fuel lines to clean them out fully, please?

I have aJP2 in my boat. When I had the boat built I specified a 25 x 19 prop, as recommended by a well known Lister guru. In use the boat always felt very slow and underpropped, so at the first blacking,I took the prop to Norris's to ask their advice. I asked them what would be the maximum they could increase the pitch to. The answer was 25x23, but they would recommend 25x21. I had it repitched to 25x23, which makes for relaxed cruising but stopping is not great, and the boat can slew across the cut under hard braking if I'm not careful. The moral.....listen to Norris's advice, and try not to have more pitch than you really need.

I saw your post on Facebook today, so I'm up to date with it. Thanks. And my computer has just updated, so I can now see your more comprehensive post on here. Thanks again.