forsberg

Thanks, nice to have some up to date information.

Hi! Will be on a rental in Bath in a few weeks. Not having much luck finding information on moorings below Bath. There seems to be nice ones above Victoria bridge? Bath council seems to be a bit boat hostile. I did order a guide Book but it has yet to arrive. Any advice appriciated.

There is no standard as it goes in connecting car stereos, sometimes the main current will go in the ignition wire sometimes in the one marked memory/battery+. Worst case scenario you will blow the 1A fuse when you turn the volume up, then you will know and can swap the fuses (replacing the broken one). But with buildt in speakers I assume 1A is plenty anyway and you should perhaps downgrade the 5A instead.

Solar charge during winter may not amount to much but if it's the difference between 95 and 100 SoC it is not usless at all. <- got it right this time I hope Besides some MPPT's have automated equalisation an thats useful too.

I'm not suggesting anything besides doing an audit , but yes it should have been "State of Charge" with those percentages. I did say "similar" as I got no clue as to what the OP can check.

14.2 is a tad low but addressing that is costly so not worth the bother with cheap batteries, unless the split charge relay takes a long time to to engage or cycles I would not bother to swap priority. No lead batteries survive poor maintance, and there is no straight answer if one battery type is better or not as it also depends on metals used. However AGM are supposed to charge quicker which might help your situation if you continue with your current charging regime and not take the AGM's faster charge as an excuse to charge even less time. Your charging regime seems to lack a bit reading between the lines but it also saves on engine hours and that's not bad either cost wise. As Dr Bob points out more batteries might also make sense as while you have a light consumption you dont charge fully daily then again the solar should pick up some of the slack, however if double the bank only gives double the lifetime there would be no gain. It's very possible that your curent setup is as good as it gets, paying a bit more attention to your depth of disharge and trail current might be all that is needed as well as taking care of the solar, is the solar connected in series or parallell and do you factor that in? A table similar to this might shed some light: The influence of solar might make it tricky to get correct readings.

Are you sinking? With your light consumption perhaps you should consider downsizing to 2 batteries as that would give the solar a better chance to charge them properly, might increase lifespan and cuts a third of the cost.

You can find information on most outboard motors at boatinfo.no

Oh we are coming allright! Got my eyes on at spot not far from the Jolly Brewers, might be some time yet though unless I successively piss my boss of and get that redundancy.

Well if cruising you should be ok with what you got, if moored https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50W-70W-100W-Solar-Panel-charger-bag-12V-folding-Kit-Caravans-Boat-Motorhome/302239046712?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49919%26meid%3Dfeaa2227a9f740648fe4deda4529172c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D252552016002%26itm%3D302239046712&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 is only two pins and color coded. ( quick search so link above has stupid postage, but it comes with a regulator which is important.)

Another battery won't help a bit unless you have alternative ways to charge it but the outboard. In fact you might need a smaller battery depending on your charging regime. Not very fond of the words "Suitcase generator" and "safe" in the same sentence but it is a good option to provide the function. Does the pot have a lid ? You get quite a lot of solar panel for the price of a generator.

That depends on where the regulator are, is it difficult to open the trimmer too? If the regulator is in the trimmer and of the simple kind 0.5V extra might harm the batteries. but if you put a diode that drops .5V in series you should be ok. If there are no regulator in the trimmer i would expect some magic smoke after a while. To charge batteries you need a regulator that limits the initial current and protects against overcharge. First one's easy the second as complicated as you like to make it..

Well that rules out that it is a fixed 3V adapter. Still no clue as to wether it is a charger or not unless it specifically says that on the adapter (such statemantes are not to be trusted anyway). So 3.3V will most likley not work well. Either the battery will not get fully charged or not charged at all. The only way to be sure is to dismantle and locate the charge regulating components, photos would do. Also to consider is what kind of USB- sockets you use, some will only deliver 100mA, and some share the maximum current.

Probably not Li/Ion with that voltage, the disposal instuctions can be generic. The question at hand is where the charge circuit is located, in the mains adapter or in the trimmer? If in the Trimmer it might work if the charger circuit can handle 3.3V, if in the adapter you will fry the batteries or perhaps blow the dc/dc converter. Have you measured the output from the mains adapter?

That is halfway true, a wet battery can sometimes be "cleaned" by repeatedly quick discharge and charge (100-200A) 70-30% SOC but if the clag buildup on the bottom reaches the plates you will have to pour the electrolyte and clag out and rinse it a few times and refill with new electrolyte, not something you would do anymore. On Gel batteries or any other fancy construction this is not possible as the clag has nowhere to go. There is a lot of former good advice out there that now are out of context. Just the other day I was told by someone that I should not store my battery on the concrete floor as it would disharge, which have not been true since the invention of plastic casing.