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colin stone

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Barge builder
  • Boat Name
    KEI
  • Boat Location
    France

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  1. The internals look just like the photographs. Numbers off the device : WWG Nr : 333 035 010X Code : RS VDO Nr: N02 063 001 Date: KW 37/02 E1 021449
  2. Stuart, thanks for that. Tried the hairdryer trick and it worked for a while. Also tried to pull needle off but wouldn't budge. Guess I need more force? My tacho is around 2003 and the outer bezel is painted brass. Needed a good levering to remove. It is also magnetic pickup from flywheel. I assume that the 24v is of no consequence as the arduino and display are suppled by the 5v header on the gauge PCB. I've downloaded your zip file and just have to get the bits. A winter project. Thanks. Colin
  3. Great topic. My VDO tacho lcd hour meter is just playing up and a new meter at £200+ doesn't appeal! My engine electrics are 24v - will that make a difference. Tacho is also only 3000 rpm, but I don't think that will affect anything. Where are the number of engine hours actually stored? Thanks.
  4. Hi Colin, I was wondering if you still have the temperature error fix for the victron multiplus - would appreciate if you can email it to me at taxidis@gmail.com. Thanks

  5. Richard, Looks brilliant and hadn't seen it before. Just need to find a couple of lengths in a store and hope it is not too soft. Thanks.
  6. Thought someone must have done this before. I'm using an ensign staff made from white UPVC tubing which is great as it is good and tall, it bends nicely with weight of flag and looks like the very expensive bent Dutch ensign staffs. It also copes well with low bridges, just bending out of the way. The problem is that brown UPVC in 40 and 32mm is not available. If tried Colron woodstain, but it fades in the sun. So wondered if anyone else had got UPVC to stay brown?
  7. I am also looking at a new controller and veering towards the new Tracer BN series because it has max 150v input and remote battery temp sensor. 2215BN, 20A, is £90 plus £21 for remote meter, but I'll probably go for 30A 3215BN £120. Bimblesolar, with several happy barge customers.
  8. Condensation in fuel is a bit of a myth. Unless you have really hugh air vent pipes, there is just not sufficient air movement to bring a decent amount of moisture into a tank. www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm I have some pretty big tanks and one has been around half full for the last 3 years. Not a drop of water in the tank with a 38mm air vent. I use Racor 500MA (BSS compliant) fuel filters with a clear bowl so one can see exactly what is coming out of the tank. Unit has a turbine action to first spin out water and rubbish and then filter above. After 2 years with them, nothing in the bowls. Plus I dose the fuel with Soltron. Water in fuel is either a leaky filling cap or water from the supplier.
  9. It is the battens. One way to minimise is to have battens for panelling run at right angles to the frame battens. Then there will only be thermal shorts at the intersections. But loss of internal room. I have the same issue but only in the very cold weather in spaces where there is more humidity - cabin and bathroom.
  10. OK. When you are next onboard, it would be interesting to know if you have an H3 reading that is not 0. I think the unit is not calculating it?
  11. Thanks. What readings does your unit have for H3 - H5? Colin Stone KEI
  12. Tim, Could you have a look at the Historical Data values for H2,3 and 4. Press the Select button to enter and leave from the normal monitoring menu. And then scroll through with + and - . Agree great bit of kit but it doesn't count amps back in that accurately with the default settings for It, Tcd and Vc. In particular, It is too high at 4% of battery capacity. Eg for me this equates to 36 amps. When my charger or alternators have reduced to this current, the Consumed Energy will still be reading -40 Ah. CE and SoC then magically jump to 0 and 100% respectively. I changed It to 1%, 9 amps, and now it counts the Ah back into the battery with CE reducing to 0. Colin
  13. Just wondering if any one has one? I have a query about the historical data readings - H2, H3 and H4 - which on mine read 0 and have never read anything else. All other H readings are correct. I think the 601 has the same historical data functions. Colin Stone KEI
  14. I have my engine calorifier connections supplying a Bowman tubular heat exchanger, which is installed in the "out/hot/supply" pipe from the boiler. Bowman £40 at boat jumble is is actually an oil heat exchanger. A boiler heat exchanger would probably do just as well. www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk/internal/page/image179.html The CH pump switches on 15 mins after engine start - a delay on relay - so that the engine is up to temp. The result is piping hot water all round the boat to 2 calorifiers and 14 radiators. With a few hours run, the temp inside is a toasty 28C. System also works for engine cooling - had an airlock in the keel cooling system and used rads for engine cooling for a few days until I could fix issue. It was August, so very hot inside! Written about system several times over the years!
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