jakub

Hi, I have exactly the same problems with my Rinnai. Were your problems resolved, if so, please will you post the solution? Thanks. Jakub.

Thanks, Bengo. Unfortunately I did not manage to remove the heat exchanger bit from my heater, because the flue hood was in the way and I couldn't find the way to pull it out:( However: I disconnected the pipework at the heater and using huge plastic syrynge I flushed it with a. Vinegar b. Kettle descaler (Oust). I put the heater back together, but before that I used the well-proven method: tapped it gently with the spanner, here and there.... And: hey presto, it works again. Thanks for advice.

I decided to remove diode thing in the end and now I am charging these batteries at 14.4V. At the moment they are on constant charge from solar at 13.70v anyway, so I expect them to serve me for years. Not fussed by quick charging too much, prefere reliability.

Just take a front cover off. Take a piezzo button apart and clean it. If it does not work, replace (buying a new one on alde website). Very straightforward job. Ps. Be careful not to lose any bits and pieces.

Gosh. That got me scared a bit. Mat not be mooring at Vicky Park this summer. Hate being mugged.

Simply: minimum usage, maximum charge. So: LED lights, no TV, limit laptop to minimum, gas fridge AND big solar panel. I live off solar for most of the year.

I have got L - shape, corner mounts, which I simply glued to the roof. I bought them of eBay. They look very presentable although they will not allow you to rotate the panel.

Mine is cooper. No rubber connections.

Gas fridge?

Thanks, for the replies. I don't have shoreline connection..so I cannot test my batteries. They are numax marine type (CXV Leisure).Not expensive. I will try to find spec which is not going to be easy, because I have tried already, but I do not think they have got Calcium technology. I looked at various diodes and I could not decide which to go for. What current rating should I be looking at? Schottky sounds good, but I couldn't find them and I wasn't sure what was I looking for. Any advice? Thanks.

Ok. It seems sensible to have a bypass switch with different diode. Or no diode at all...the voltage measured is at battery terminals. Amps delivered around 3-4 at 15.0 V, that is when I assume batts are fully charged. From what I see I have been overcharging these batteries a bit, and certainly to replace water is going to be a bit tricky (impossible even? Hmmm) . Thanks for all advice.

Thank you. Ok it seems I need to change the diode...

...or will the electrolite evaporate and I will not be able to top them up? I have the the 55A alternator with the diode mod which seems to give me that kind of voltage. Thanks.

aghhh. Trying to source the new pump. Unfortunately DIPERK does not have my engine number in the system. Because of that I also asked a company called welland power for help. Both companies could not identify my engine: type 104.19 number KF30234 After some email exchange with both of them I got these results: DIPERK suggests part number: U4501795 WELLAND POWER suggest part number: U45017952 I think the pump should look something like this (which is WELLAND POWER suggestion): but I might be wrong. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jerry.