Northstar

I didn't, I'm quoting the engine's specifications

TBH since I'm not entirely sure if it is the filter primer housing so I'll chance it becauseI I'vegot another engine project back at home if anyone's interested in a 4 cylinder air cooled Lister that's in very good condition and has only ever done test hours let me know It does around 50hp at 2000 revs

I've just ordered it for £15 Inc postage Beta were just over £60 plus delivery so even if I have to make a bracket for it, it's well worth doing so Thanks

Looks a good risk for £15 Do you know if uses the same filter? No, my breather is above the tank but it's a good point I'll check that it's not obstructed

My tank forms the stern of the boat so is level with the engine which is located immediately forward of it The tank is virtually full Now I recall the origin of this problem it first occurred after a 2hr cruise followed by a 2 week stop when I returned to move the boat it started fine ticked over for several minutes the as I was moving away began to falter My in initial attemps to sort it out focused on the idea that I had a blocked fuel line which proved unfounded I've now satisfactorily vacuum tested the pipes stop valves and water seperator. So I'm now replacing the pipes and going to test the engine with the automatic bleed valve fully open If I still have the same problems I'll replace the fuel filter housing

I'm going to try and track down a new primer filter housing today and I'm a bit limited for time so do you know of a more available auto motive unit that will suit the B43 or do I have to get one from Beta

Well I've always done the same thing for a different reason but this was the first time I'd touched that valve so it must have been fully open since new which is born out by the paint cover on it's shaft below the nut. Thanks again for your time much appreciated

Ok thanks this is definitely starting to make sense of the symptoms I've been experiencing. I've got to get this fixed and thoroughly tested asap before I go back across the Ribble Link in a couple of weeks time

That's very helpful thanks and it explains how I hamfistedly snapped the knurled wheel off when I attempted to use it to help clear an air lock - it was already fully open Did the leaking primer filter housing leak oil out or did it just let air in

Yeah I'd assumed the same but wanted to check Trouble is I'm clearing the air locks using the bleed on the side of the filter plus the fuel pump bleed too then after 5-10 mins running it starts faltering again So I've now had it running for about 30 mins on tickover and full bore with the knurled pump bleeder slightly open and it hasn't stalled It's not leaking any fuel either

Hi All Had my Beta 43 for 15 years now not done that many hours but have recently had a number of air locks in the fuel line I've cleaned out the water seperators and and changed the fuel filter suction cleaned the tank but I'm still getting problems. Does anyone know the purpose of the knurled but bleeder on the side of the pump is it supposed to remain slightly open?

Yeah not sure if it would be more than i need at 10kw, I've been looking at a Webasto matrix that shifts 4.3kw of heat (£103 inc VAT) either of which i would be easily able to make it direct heat across my semi trad back deck in the cooler months and outboard in the summer. That might be enough, i'm not sure, but given that I've already rearranged my CH flow and return to run direct to the calorifier to pick up the excess engine heated water before flowing to the upgraded CH rads gone from 7.6kw to 15.5kw now, before running back to the pump and boiler which i operate on "Pump Only" when running the boat. My next option may be a second skin tank formed on the external face of the swim on the opposite side from the existing one, but I wonder how much that would affect steering (and wallet)?

My solution to my engine bay lid was quite simple and very effective, I used an 18mm all weather deck board often used on wagon decks which after 12 years still looks good. I stapled a sheet of 10mm dense closed cell foam (throwaway packaging) to the underside of it right up to the edges which is important because the board sits on the rain gulley edge and by making the foam seperate the board from the steel support it isolates the floor from transmitting sound from the engine bay and the hull generally. I had considered using checker plate aluminium but metal is an efficient conductor of sound whereas timber is a natural insulator. I also would have had to apply a slip resistant coating. Picture Information Free P&P Image not available Photos not available for this variation <style type="text/css">.vi-hide-mImgThr {display: none;}</style><img id="icImg" class="img img500" itemprop="image" src="https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ifEAAOSwPc9Wv8zG/s-l500.jpg" style="" clk="" alt="Anti-Slip-Mesh-Phenolic-Resin-Plywood-Sheets-18mm-Trailer-Flooring-Buffalo-Board" /> Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Details about Anti-Slip Mesh Phenolic Resin Plywood Sheets 18mm Trailer Flooring

there's a lot of good acoustic info and products in the construction sector in which i work, but the main principal is to prevent the noise transferring onto surfaces which link to the areas you wish to silence using a mixture of dense and aerated materials that break down the frequency pattern of the noise. if i knew more about the specific problem i would be able to suggest a fix.

Has anyone considered or had experience of installing a fan assisted radiator to supplement engine cooling where the skin tank is undersized. I've taken several steps to try and get my boat to run cooler but to little avail.