abnormalsheep

Pretty convinced now its an old Swanline...

Thats the one

Heh, this whole thread has got me thinking again.... as the thought of stretching has crossed my mind a few times, just for the extra 10ft - the fit out would be much more accommodating. I do think it is largely due to the sentimental attachment I've developed, and the only reason I would consider selling my boat is for a bit of extra space. In its current state it definitely wouldnt buy me a longer boat and as its still just a shell, it would be a good time to do it.. ? It has been overplated as well, (also in Lymm, funnily enough).... so this thread has definitely been food for thought! I was a bit concerned about the new base plate (as its been tucked underneath in several segments rather than one long piece).. so if i could somehow detach that, I could use the steel for the stretch.... oooo

Its a primer for Chlorinated Rubber ? Teamac... I am feeling much reassured anyway! Thanks ?

Thanks for the reassurance TD ? do you think the bitumen will be happy sat on top of the Metaclor stuff?

Yours is all matte-like too? The Rylards Bitumen i looked at said it had a glossy finish which started me doubting what it was. A pretty thin layer too - as some of it did budge a little. Barely though.... maybe I just need a better wire wheel - was using all the dregs i could find ?

After months of frustration with a dinky little water bag in the integral tank, yesterday I finally embarked on the job of taking it out, along with all the kingspan. Underneath the surface was relatively sound - certainly not a glossy bitumous finish, and mostly the rust came through in lots of tiny speckles. This is making me wonder if it was a failing epoxy job? The stuff didnt smear about like bitumen usually does. I say 'was', because it has now been painted with 'Metaclor Underwater Primer' - after a good session with an angle grinder. Retrospectively this seems to have been a mistake, as the advised topcoat for the primer isnt suitable for potable water tanks (Chlorvar Chlorinated Rubber). So, I dont think the tank was originally painted with bitumen, it now has a layer of dubious primer - the question is, what next? If it is originally epoxy, it would still need prep back to the steel for a good fusion, but the stuff barely budged with the wire wheel.... so, a flap wheel maybe? Or, just whack a load of bitumen on it and hope for the best. The primer was very metallic, and I believe has potent anti corrosive properties. Is bitumen fussy? The original suggestion was to just use the primer alone, but this has since spread a dollop of doubt throughout my neurons! Any advice greatly appreciated!

The windows in my boat aren't as angular as the boats in the most recent pictures - much more rectangular with rounded corners. The front of the boat is very similar though! The curve seems more pronounced but perhaps because it's not in the water? The D-bars are in the same positions too.

This post is the only post I can find with pictures that bear any resemblance to my boat, so here's my boat...! I've been told it's a Swanline, but it's very difficult to find any information about them online. It has a very distinctive curve with a fibreglass top that has been skinned in OSB with the intention of a fresh layer of fibreglass, though I intend to put a steel top on it. Any information about the boat would be really cool though! Thanks, Sam

Frustrating..... scrubbed vinegar into the rust for the last 2 days, rinsed it with soapy water and dried it.... and theres still orange dust all over it. If I paint over this will it come through, or do I need to just persevere with vinegar? Might try the spuds...

It has a whole new base plate, so it is currently not blacked, but not because it is old Just recapping some questions. Been reading a lot about using a zinc based paint. Another guy on the yard said with so many options, to just do what I want... ha. Sorry if it is tedious to ask such questions..! Thanks for all the advices!

Hehe yaay.. thank you JP.. is amazing what a bit of concurrence does! Dont mind too much about appearances on the outside, as will probably put on a bitumous top coat anyway..... and i'll probably use a primer that would be sufficient for the outside. Can also be grinded back or shot blasted much easier than the inside, once all interior is in. So, now it seems absolutely clear, that it is best to invest the MIO for the inners. Sweet! Thanks again

I suppose its still better to use inside, as there is perhaps a stronger need for the anti corrosive properties, with the constant condensation?

Thanks JP for your effort of simplifying something I was making a little too complicated! Will go forward with the vinegar & soap washes. Will probably use a hair dryer to make sure moisture doesnt linger! Found an MIO data sheet last night that went into detail about different surfaces, including painted surfaces, so I am a bit more reassured now! As it was a gift I had no idea about it... but having successfully found routes of reading... it seems to be used in external paint too, and is actually pretty pricey at £80/5 litres. So now im wondering about using the red oxide I have for the inside, and the MIO on the outside, as an intermediate layer between some zinc stuff and top coat. Just as I felt a little certainty another possibility raises its head..!!? Either way, the uncertainty of how much paint to remove inside has been reassured!

Eep.... well, the welder says he hasnt had a boat sink yet....maybe mine will be a first. Its really old (at least 30-40 years) steel and he kept blowing through... and all the bitumen bubbled. Dunno.... could grind it back and weld it again? Cant afford to pay someone.... been learning, but have hardly done my mile of weld. Painting over grease or diesel sounds a challenge too..!