M-S-D

Thanks Richard and all, yes that is a good link.

GRP (with ply inside) , sorry should have said.

Hi I read somewhere about it being a good idea if bolting through the transom (especially below water line), to drill an oversized hole, epoxy this, and then drill again the required diameter. This seemed to make decent sense (unless you guys have other experiences). For those that have done it, just looking for a steer on how much larger the epoxy hole ought to be? So say it was a M12 bolt (12mm), what would you drill to fill? Cheers

Thanks Phil and all

Hi knowledgeable forum. This may have been asked before but couldn't spot it quickly. Believe I understand the concept of the captivation plate to be level with the bottom of the transom. Having a scout around the hard standing, all the boats with outboards have a hull which resembles a flattened "V", i.e .the lowest point of the hull is lined up with where the outboard would be. So a nice easy measurement. Now, for our sins, we are converting an old Dawncraft that in the past had an inboard engine, and the hull here is not the "V" style, but is "cut out" style. i.e. about 1.5 feet either side of centre is the lowest part of the hull, and lined up with where the outboard would be is about 4 inches higher up. __/------\__ So my question is, should we be taking the measurement from the lowest point of the hull which is to the side, or from the centre which is higher up? Additional info, this is just for pottering about on inland water ways. Also intention is to add an "outboard pod" so the outboard will actually sit say 16 or so inches behind the rear of the boat. We probably have enough "play" to go for a long shaft or an extra long shaft, and advice here may clinch it. Just as an aside, it seems to me from measuring the actual outboards, that the captivation plates for say a 20" long shaft actually seem to be more like 22 to 23 inches. Maybe this is just manufacturers building in some extra to allow for angle etc. Thanks in advance.

Just a quick update for anyone coming across this in future, ended up buying a roll of 25mm x 1mm rubber and did both parts with that. All seems okay to so far, first window put back into the boat. Can always add some lubrication later onto the slider side if needed. Onto the next one. Cheers

Thanks all. Looks like flock lined is an option for the slider. W, must have been through your thread a number of times but had maybe missed that part. Will look into the felt and similar. Good to see you have your mojo back!

Old GRP boat, replacing the glass in a window. The window frame contains two tracks, one takes the fixed pane, the other pane slides to open & close. The fixed pane looked to have some perished rubber, the glazer suggested just using sealant to secure it. The moving pane just seemed to have the glass slide over the metal. The glazer suggested some grease on the bottom. Can anyone suggest a type of grease to use? Or any other ideas? Have also just been reading about butyl tape on here, for when replacing the frame. Thanks

Thanks for the input and thoughts, plenty to think about.

Having now had a chance to look closer at the oak fins/keels, it is clear that in the past the gaps have been filled with something, which looked like some type of flexible filler (sikaflex etc.). Some of it is in good order but some has perished, I have been removing it. Pics below. Generally it looks like the wood is close where bolted but have gained spaces elsewhere. Current thinking is to epoxy rather than filler. Seems a few types though. Seen Watertite which looks like it might be easier to apply. Then West system, which has a hardener. All opinions welcomed

Just to update, and in case anyone should come across in the future, the guys at Sillette have identified it as a TRANSADRIVE

Thanks for all the replies. Do seem to be lot of similarities with the sonic 70. See Sillette have a site, the "sales brochure" on there for the 70 doesn't quite look the same. I'll see if I can talk with them. No luck so far in finding a service or operator manual for one.

Probably because someone suggested it early on, I was thinking this was an Enfield Z-drive. [Two pics] However, having acquired two manuals they both contain diagrams like this. [Image] Where the arm connects is different. Any suggestions to what it is?

Found a thread on here - "dawncraft 25 advice needed" Suggests they are oak. Crane guy wondered if it had happened while on the trailer, but as you say it may have already been cracked and been soaking through. He mentioned epoxying the bolt holes might be crude option. We had been fitting the inside (more because we needed to keep travelling to check on it and it was something to do while there.) but it can all come out if it has to. I don't recall seeing any bolts though.

Boat is now on hard standing. A new issue to ponder though. It has a couple of "fins". Not sure how well it comes out but crack/gaps near the top. Closed back up when placed down.

Hope to hear back from Bob. Jim, are you able to share a little more about fitting new ones? The bolts, were they already visible inside or did you have to "dig" to locate them?

Thanks for the offer but a long way from you unfortunately. Currently in East Cambridgeshire and hopefully soon moving to between Oxford and Swindon. Pics are not easy to see. It looks as though the engine driveshaft was cut off in order to remove the engine. We have not been able to locate the handle to raise the z-drive either. Yet to clear out this area. Have not been great at taking pics of the boat, will aim to when next over. Have been doing what we can : putting floor down, fitting wall and doors to the covered cabin, some framing for toilet, seating, that sort of thing. Some fibre on the bilge area, plus the first coat of fibre on the additional roof.

Thanks, will look into this.

Now wondering what we will find when ours comes out of the water. Not leaking currently though so that is something. Fins eh.

Best of luck, enjoy.

Thanks W, was hoping you may be around. We have caught up/followed your wee one and plant pot threads with much interest. Very inspiring. We are also canopy-less so following that also! Yes aware of the inboard benefits you mention, and if the Z-drive seems okay then that might be the most cost effective option....if...it all just worked. Seems plenty of challenges with lining it all up etc. The other factor is the previous owners had been adding some extra covered area, hence reducing the open area at the rear, there is very little left before the existing engine boxing.

Yeah rusty, had seen that one - looking for something a little more sedate!

With luck our project should be out of the water soon, and so we'll need to make the tough decision which has been bouncing around for a bit. It has a z-drive but no engine. One of the options is to take the z-drive out and patch up the hole(s). Then fit a heavy duty outboard bracket. Hoping some knowledgeable folks might have had some experience of doing this and may offer some thoughts. For the holes. It is GRP hull. Was thinking either gauze or ply and then fibre-glass. For the bracket, was thinking of a large sheet of ply on the inside of the back of the boat also fibre-glassed. Then a backing plate. Possibly some additional timber from where the existing engine mounts are to tie in also. Would just be for river and canal use, so thinking something between 8HP and 15 HP would managed (it is 25ft). A concern would be the cabling for the outboard though, guess that may need a sizeable new hole making. Thanks in advance

Thanks, that is a little different to the one I had located, and clearer text too. Thank you, will take a look.

Thanks for replying, I believe is the model without the winder. However, the pin to release the lock is on the inboard side is it?