nb stumpy

Just returned from my boat, oven now removed exposing flexible. I'll refit same after BSS examiner is satisfied. Was a bit of a tinker to get out given the amount of saw dust and bits of detritus I found behind it I would say it's extremely unlikely it has ever been removed since it's original installation. I have read the BSS spec. concerning LPG installation and required checks I have no problem with the BSS requirements very clearly identified. I was shocked when the examiner forewarned me he was expecting to inspect the said flexible but I've got over it. Hopefully less experienced members of the forum will now at least be aware of the requirement and not be as shocked as I was. As always thanks to all contributors to this thread overall the responses give a balanced view.

The BSS is due about my boat. During a pre inspection by the BSS examiner he has advised me that the oven / hob will need to be removed to expose the flexible LPG pipes providing the gas supply. It is a BSS requirement that all LPG joints and flexible pipes couplings are available for inspection. I have owned the boat for two previous BSS certifications and not previously had to expose these flexible pipes. Have I just been lucky is my examiner interpreting the rules more stringently or have the rules been recently changed? It seems very strange that I need to dismantle the oven and hob to expose these flexible pipes never having had to do so before. I can imagine on some boats this requirement could involve stripping cupboards and units to gain access.

Thanks to everyone for ongoing comments, 2 pack seems to be favourite.

David, thank you for good advice. Getting to do the base plate obviously depends on the means of supporting the boat and moving the stands by no means impossible but does need a bit more thought / planning.

Boat was last blacked nearly six years ago, I think the condition of the blacking below the water line is probably better that that above, the rubbing strakes are certainly showing the signs of distress. Rust is visible, off course, although it only appears to be surface at the moment.

I would appreciate any current advise on boat blacking from the community. My boat is I'm afraid probably overdue and I am lost on what is considered best practice. My boat was last treated with 2 pack epoxy, after pressure washing by way of preparation is it strictly necessary to apply similar coating? If not what other coating might be considered best alternative and would pressure washing be considered suitable preparation? Can anybody advise on current cost per foot or metre that a responsible marina might charge to remove boat to hard standing and then black from the gunwales down? Finally current thoughts on blacking the base plate? Really would appreciate advise.

I think you've probably worked this problem out for yourself, if not the two philip head screws that are visible on the top of the bow thruster are super long and go right through the body of the motor and screw / attach the motor to the bottom flange. By removing those screw (from memory) the motor should then lift clear. On my unit obviously to remove the motor it will need disconnecting electrically, dont forget to disconnect the battery first! There will also be a shear pin where the motor drive slots into the impeller drive on my unit it is loose and easy to drop. Be careful. Hope the above might be useful.

Thanks again I think this post describes the process that I had no understanding of. Before fitting a NRV I will certainty check the pipework as the engine cools, if there is a back flow then the valve might provide a benefit. Honestly, it was understanding the process that was probably more important than the loss of hot water. I've read a number of feeds on similar subjects without understanding how it worked. I couldn't really understand how a full calorifier of hot water could be cooled effectively by a relatively small coil. Relatively small when looking at the respective surface areas. If as you describe though once a back flow is established a continuously flowing circuit is established then through heat transfer the calorifier will become progressively cooler until a median temperature is established. Yes?

Insulation to the calorifier is the moulded type which would be part of the manufacturing process I would guess it to be maybe inch and a half two inches maybe. Hot water pipe from calorifier to hot water taps throughout the boat are not insulated at all.

I've never noticed any leakage into my radiators either. After a day cruising obviously the calorifier is full with hot water and after mooring for the night I normally wash up cup saucers plates etc that have accumulated throughout the day, obviously this permits cold,hot water dilution so prior to showering I run the engine to ensure I have plenty of hot water and generally after the shower I might run the engine for maybe ten minutes. Again any further take off of hot water is topped up with cold so I'm normally not keen on depleting the hot water unnecessarily. Regardless of what precautions or extremes I go to the water temperature in the morning couldn't be described as anything more than luke warm. This not a major annoyance I just thought that for very little effort of fitting NRV there might be easy benefits but then maybe not enough to make it worth while.

Ah, thank everyone for input I thought maybe I could prevent major heat loss and have a tank full of hot water still available in the morning it sounds like I've misread other various feeds on this issue and warm water in the morning with natural cooling is the best I can hope for. My question is a result of too much time to muse whilst in lock down.

Tony appreciate your input, I will definitely fit a valve when I'm allowed back on board. Do you think the back flow is minimal as I don't see a means of continuous flow around the engine unless of course the flow is back through the cooling tank on the swim?

My calorifier has moulded insulation from manufacture. It has 3 seperate heat sources available, engine, central heating or immersion. Water temperature is good no matter what source however invariably temperature is greatly lowered overnight. I now believe hot water is now syphoning back to the engine and cooling although I don't really understand how much can effectively be cooled without some mechanism to aid circulation. Question: should I fit a NRV to the top or bottom connection of the calorifier Engine Coil? Supplementary how once the back flow of water to the engine has commenced is a continuous flow possible achieving such a degree of cooling? Any help or suggestions greatly received as clearly I'm totally baffled!

For what it's worth my boat appears to have a calorifier of exactly the same arrangement. The very top fitting is used exclusively for the hot water outlet the half inch fitting on the bottom is utilised for the PRV. My boat is a 2004 Measham, I very recently changed my PRV as it was passing causing the water pump to start up twice in the middle of the night. The PRV was (is) rated at 2 bar about £18.00 from memory from Midland chandlers. The system was and now is working perfectly. Hope this helps.

Been resident at Barby Moorings for 5 years. Facilities improve every year. All pontoons have dedicated metered electricity posts, water supply is shared between approximately 4 pontoons and is available 52 weeks a year so assume must be trace heated in the winter. LPG, diesel, elsan and pump out are all available and more recently a few miscellaneous chandlery items. The owners are very obviously the owners who have reasonable rules and expectations of their moorers and provided they're treated with respect then respect is reciprocated. Incidently moorers have access to free pump outs. A newly completed workshop will eventually facilitate grit blasting, blacking and painting for up to 3 boats at a time in temperature controlled environment. Repeating very real stories from the past and often second hand hearsay I'm afraid no longer reflects the reality of this site. We along with many others are obviously happy as evidenced by the sites relatively high occupancy.