jono2.0

Whilst sitting in my narrowboat yesterday in the hot heat I thought about air conditioning. There are basically two separate areas of air con. A compressor that cools water and air passed through the cold water, in turn creating cooler air. We all know a fridge compressor works pretty full on when the inside of the boat is especially hot. Air con would also be very power hungry. But the boat is surrounded by water that is significantly cooler than the air, just putting your hand in it shows that. Could I use water from the canal/river to circulate through some sort of radiator mechanism just like an air con unit would use and then push air through it? I could have a small low power pump circulating the water and a fan pushing the air. I realise it wouldn't be as cool as a dedicated air con unit but surely it could be achieved? What are your thoughts?

Hello, I have 750w of solar panels going into a Victron system with 4x 110Ah batteries. I'm finding my batteries are fully charged by about 8.30 in the morning on sunny days. I'd like to use some of the remaining day's solar power to heat the water in my tank. That way when moored up for a few days out in the wilderness everything remains charged and water hot. The immersion heater in the tank is 1Kw and is 240v. I have a Victron MultiPlus that can more than cope with that. I'd like to use the switching facility in the Victron controller. When the batteries are full and happy I'd like the controller to switch a 12v relay which in turn would switch the 240v on to the immersion heater. If the batteries go below 85% the immersion relay turns off and the solar goes back to charging the batteries. Basically using the lost solar power to heat my water. My question is, can I use the 100A type 12v relays used in automotive industry? Like the one in the picture, or does anyone know of a DIN rail mounted version as we are talking of 240v and I would like it all to remain safe! Thanks Jono

I'm pleased to say it's now fully working again. It could be because of three possible reasons: 1. I've recently filled my water tank and it's lower in boat - I'm a sail away without a full fit out yet so it may be a little high in the water - as Bazza954 said above. 2. A blockage has become loose and released itself - woo hoo! 3. I've not used it for a few days despite sailing around so maybe the voltage was too low for it to fully do its thing but now it's tip top. Thanks for all your help though. I dread the day I have to flood the locker and take the propeller out!

That is exactly my worry too. "3x 6mm holes drilled as low as I dare" It's just my luck I'd go too far and create a nice feature fountain only for it to become a nice under-water boat exhibit! I know it's 10mm of solid steel to get through but I don't want to risk it. I think I may create inspection squares along one side of the flooring. It's all got to be lifted so I can remove ballast for things like cooker, multi fuel fire, shower weight etc. so I can saw off a corner of each before fitting it back down.

No worries, I've just checked too and I don't have any Keelsons (after Googling what they were!). Not great pics but something I grabbed when I visited it being made. So would you all suggest I 'create' a route for water to travel from bow to stern? 3x 6mm holes drilled as low as I dare on each angle that's welded to the baseplate? One port, one starboard and one in the middle?

What would you suggest I do? Ignore it or raise them up off the baseplate a little. I was in a builders merchant today and I can think of the ideal cheap alternative to raise the bricks off the baseplate but not too much so there is also air above too. Tile spacer crosses! The type you'd use to tile a floor, I think they go up to about 4mm. Cheap and 1000's of them! It would be a pain in the backside but if I need to do it it would be best.

Hi, I've been lifting a few boards from my, just over 2-month-old narrowboat to start removing ballast as more stuff is put on board in the cabin area (the engine bay is completely separate with a steel bulkhead between cabin and engine area). The bilge areas have been painted and bricks with an indented side used as ballast. I've noticed the following: 1. Under every brick, there is water, not loads but more than a few drips 2. The entire bilge areas are rather messy with sawdust and insulation bits 3. There is no pathway from the bow to the stern for water to travel as the metalwork is welded side to side at regular intervals all through boat. I have read this is normal for newer boats but not ideal! 4. There is a gap above each brick of about 1cm before the bottom of the bitumen painted bottom ply flooring. Is this normal, have the bricks been on a pallet in the rain for example and they are just releasing their moisture and it will all just dry out. Or should I clean it all out and dry everything?