douglas_ferguson1

http://www.modernstoves.co.uk/wood-burning-stoves-with-back-boiler/tas-safety-valve.html

This is my concern, the problem with me putting in a radiator or something is that the heat really could build up in the cabin! I figure that if I am able to get around 15-20L into the pipes, 30 mins to an hour of burning should only really achieve at best 60 degrees maybe 70 given that the cooler water in the calorifier should really strip away the heat and would probably be more efficient than using a radiator to do so. Given the distance that the water will need to travel from the fire to the calorifier a radiator would likely be little help as the room will already be warm from the fire being lit, so the heat will not be pulled away from the radiator.

Hi all, I recently switched my boat around and removed a diesel stove and installed a conventional multi fuel stove, I honestly cant believe the difference!!! I intend to install a mini range in the cabin (a 2-3kw mini multi fuel), I have seen one which can have a backboiler fitted to it, I would like to connect this to the calorifier to heat up my water (as I already have existing pipe work and pump in line). The stove will be about 10-12foot in distance from the calorifier and will not heat any radiators en-route, my concern is that the water in the piping will wet too hot and start to vapourise as there will not be enough heat dispersing during the short travel time. Is this a warranted concern? My intent is to run the stove 30 mins to 1 hour per day in order to give me enough hot water for a shower and to do the dishes. Again, any help would be really appreciated! (stoves seem to be taking over my life at the moment) Thanks!!!!

Hi All, This weekend I am ripping out a back boiled stove in order to fit a new one. Problem is I don't see a valve near or on the back boiler in order to drain it off?! The pipes are at their lowest point at their fitment to the back boiler as you'd expect, but the only valve is at the other end of the boat where they are at their highest point??? Is this normal? The stove is a bubble corner type diesel burner if that helps at all. Can anyone shed any light on how to do this without cracking a pipe?! Thanks in advance

near the stove the pipes are carrying water at 70 degrees when at full tilt, obviously a radiator is a different matter, it is a different substrate and is generally thicker to carry the heat more effectively. You also need to remember with a larger surface area the heat disperses faster

To be fair, I think that I could do with a further rad. GGenerallythr tip of the radiator hits 60 degrees, bottom being 55ish, which to my understanding is at the lower end of what is regarded as "acceptable" for heat dispersion. Problem is I can't get it any hotter, that is with the stove at full whack. My pump has 3 speed settings with the top being unacceptable due to noise, it is situated near the bed. I have tried using all 3 speed setting and none show any measurable improvement in surface temperature

Yes I have seen this also mentioned within the instructions for the bubble though I generally clean once per fortnight as per the reccomendations within the user guide. I ggenerally allow the stove to cool for 1-2 hours as I have to put my hand into the pot to extract carbon, there isnt really an explanation as to why the seal has gone, it must have perished over time I presently have a stove fan to try to blow some warm air to the other end of the boat which is effective up until the corridor to the toilet, being only 2 foot wide the air generally doesn't circulate that far. I do have a pump in place on the back boiler as I don't trust gravity fed systems, as I worry the flow rate won't be enough and water will boil in the back boiler. Do you think a mini stove in the rear cabin would be an option? I have seen some rated at 2.5ish kw. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking Haworth at all in any way shape or form, there is a reason people buy their products. My concern is the perishable items, such as o-rings etc. As diesel isnt a kind substance to rubber or any kind my concern is that this will happen again and potentially cause more serious problems. In not specifically pointing the finger at this particular stove, my present concern is diesel in general, a system which can allow backflow of fuel from what can become an open hole is what is worrying me, it is present on all diesel stones as far as I'm aware

Cheers mate, will have a look at them. Yeah be careful of that rod, there will be seals that stop diesel coming out along the handle, which will then evaporate ad those things get HOT, I don't know how old your stove is but they generally perish after a few years or so I'm told.

At the rear of the stone, where the diesel enters the pot, there is a metal rod which is rotated to remove carbonation and allow free flow of the fuel. This rod is encapsulated by two compression seals and two hex nuts which you should rotate to ensure that diesel cannot flow both along the rod to the burner but also the opposite direction leading outside the pot. The rod heats extensively, so what can happen if a seal fails is diesel flows both in the pot and outside the pot along the rod, once the rod heats up it causes the diesel to evaporate, theres your fumes. I do not know if the refleks has this system, the bubble does. It can basically bypass the security measures put in place to stop over heating etc.

Is there a specified maintenance schedule for those though? I found carbonation of the oil pot to be a massive issue within the bubble, I have adjusted and adjusted so many different settings, all in line with the described requirement on the manual and it has made minuscule improvements. I think presently my biggest concern is another failing seal, be that on a refleks or a bubble etc, you can't imagine how bad the vapor leak was, if I had been asleep at night and somehow not heard an alarm I wouldn't be writing this, I'll put it that way. I understand regardless of fuel type there is maintenance to be had, but a solid fuel stove hasn't got vales upon seals upon other valves which perish due to the nature of the fuel being burned. Combined with the cost of yearly servicing, it could work out to be £150-200 more expensive per year to run. If diesel were significantly cheaper you could offset the cost, but I only see the price going one way (thanks HMRC!). Up until a couple of weeks ago, I would likely have agreed that diesel and solid fuel are not all that dissimilar regarding price & efficiency etc. To be honest, the thing scares me now, I don't want to die in my sleep. It has soured me against diesel stoves. I appreciate the post though!!!!

That's brilliant, think I have me a plan! Now I just need to work out how the hell you bleed a back boiler!! This corner stove is wedged in so tightly I can't see a bleed valve. Your help has been much appreciated though, so thank you.

I think a 20kw monster might be slight overkill for me, bit inlet the point haha. I have been looking at the squirrel, also another brand called chilly penguin, they have a built in pizza stove but then I worry I may not be able to find down the corridors due to a gain in mass on the midriff! Have you ever used only immersion & engine to heat water in your calorifier by chance? As the back boiler will either need replacing or refitting and my funds are not endless!

That is highly reassuring, so thanks for that. Im glad it isn't just me that has had this issue, did you notice a difference in the type of heat when moving from diesel to coal? Is one drier than the other? I hear some people saying that the heat from diesel can add condensation??

54°c?! That's both amazing and scary all at the same time!! 12hrs is a reassuring burn time though. Does that tale much maintenance? Generally I dislike a hot bedroom, but ours sometimes dips below 10 at the moment, the dibble seemsnto struggle with heating the rads for some reaso

Do yobleave the boat for any extended periods of time? Does that cause any issue (overheating etc)?