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Dutchman

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Name
    Dutch

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  1. I havent tried emanulli, I'm contemplating it, just a little worried, I researched online it some articles saying it was a scam popped up, have any of you guys used them? Many thanks
  2. Thanks mate, The problem I have is brown points diagrams don't really pair up, I definitely know mine is a 1983 by the serial number but the bearing carrier does not a top and bottom bolt as depicted in their info
  3. I've been here, turns out it was a scam , they refunded the next day as all you get is a condensed data sheet. Thanks for the help thou
  4. Hi guys I'm working on a dt60 1983 and could do with some lower unit info, I have a clymer manual that covers most units 1985 onwards and I'm told that the dt55 and dt65 are the same but as I'm taking it apart it the manual to them does not resemble what I'm working with, any help would be apreciated
  5. That's certainly a good thing to know when I get it going,be desisive in gear changes. I'm hoping that the clutch on mine is ok and it's just a gear selector rod that's bent. £9 acording to the parts list The people I bought mine off told me that they had a rope wrap around the prop and the engine stopped. Even though they replaced the prop and covering etc they were never able to put into reverse again. As soon as I remount my crane on the back of my tug in the coming months I will hoist her back end out and have a proper mooch around. Ps I hope the wd40 did the job
  6. Hi mate. I can't say i have heard anything about filling with sand etc but it should be easy enough to unbolt the back boiler remove it and pop in some blanking plates that most companies sell on their websites for the very same purpose you are attempting. If you're backboiler replaces fire bricks you would have to place some of them it it's place. But if I were you and I was happy with it running a rad I would probably just put in a 12v pump which uses next to nothing electric wise. Dutch
  7. I'm going to keep a eye on this post. I have the task of repairing the reverse gear on a enfield z drive this winter. It would be good to pick up any pointers to make the job easier. I have downloaded the manual and parts list from online ready to go. Here is a the link to the manual if you haven't already got it https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/davenrich/Assets/ENFIELD%20Z-DRIVE.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjosr6coejVAhVlCsAKHau6C9cQFggtMAE&usg=AFQjCNHwbkCm7SuINVD5bjL3aQy4ePS2EA Dutch
  8. Thank you guys for the help, those 1 inch bsp fittings were exactly what I needed.?
  9. Thank you very much peeps.I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow ?
  10. Yep, that's right , it's a add in welded back boiler for a villager b, and yes it's currently loose, I haven't bolted it on just yet, making sure I have all the right fittings ready before i start bolting it all together, oh and the marks don't correspond to a old bolt just some discoloration around the pop out bungs,which were more like hammer out lol.
  11. Thanks mate,and cheers for the info, I wasn't using a tank conector just using it to compare size and thread, I shall try a one inch tomorrow and see if I'm in luck
  12. Sorry mike, im just figuring out how to upload images here on the thread, hopefully a little better quality now, they are threaded but comparing to a tank conector I have, I think the thread is slightly different and the and the tank conector I find ever so slightly thicker
  13. Here are a couple of pictures https://ibb.co/fKBeqa https://ibb.co/i0RZOv Thank you for the help guys. Let me know what you think?
  14. Hi eveyone,I'm hoping someone can help me out. I have a villager b back boiler with 28mm conections on the back and my problem is that normal compression fittings are unable to bolt on to them as they do not Grove that compression fittings have to accommodate the olive. Has anyone come across and overcome this in the past? Regards Dutch
  15. Hi rob,thanks for getting back to me I'm sorry my reply is delayed also, I'm glad you have you're erber running fine now. I have never had mine conected to a timer so I can't shed much light on that front as mine is wired up to switch. One thing that made a difference to get mine working OK was to ensure enough fuel was reaching the pump. The dedicated tank I had for it was positioned to low for the 12v fuel pump to deal with, and as soon as I moved it never failed to start up.
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