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stegra

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About stegra

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    Keynsham

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  1. Aerial

    That's what I have; the one that's almost round. Didn't have high hopes for it but it works really well. I just have it on the boat's roof whereas others in the boatyard seem to be using poles.
  2. Work of Art!!! On flea bay

    He says they messed up the price but the mistake was of his own making if he placed the decimal point there as he did in this reply. Nor can he have checked the confirmation page before starting the listing.
  3. Box or rail

    Mine has the round grab rail but also has a D section (like straking) to provide an upstand. There are small cut-outs to allow for for drainage between the windows. I'm very happy with this set-up. In fact, I didn't realise it wasn't normal until I read this thread. Just about visible in the photo:
  4. Thanks for the replies. There doesn't seem to be a vast choice of manual changeover kits with bulkhead fitting and 37mbar regulator. Looks like this one from the same vendor might be the way to go without significantly upping the budget. Hopefully the hoses are compliant. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COK1-MANUAL-2-BOTTLE-CHANGEOVER-KIT-PROPANE-GAS-CYLINDER-REGULATOR-37mbar-700E-/130939032294?epid=1608000088&hash=item1e7c9312e6:g:apMAAOxygPtS37rN
  5. Hi. Just wanted to see of anyone can see any problem with using this bulkhead regulator and change over on a boat. My intention would be to reduce to 10mm and go directly into a bubble leak detector. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMATIC-LPG-PROPANE-TWO-BOTTLE-CHANGEOVER-KIT-2-GAS-CYLINDER-REGULATOR-COK2-/131807862431?epid=1595161529&hash=item1eb05c5e9f:g:l~QAAOSwcUBYSBD1
  6. Still can not reply

    Forget that suggestion
  7. 48v bilge pump conundrum

    Ah. I hadn't thought of switching DC/DC converters with the float switch. Seems to make sense but will need a dedicated converter for each pump. DC/DC converters aren't cheap but the savings from using 12v or 24v pumps should make it viable. Still adds a potential weak link so relays might be equally viable.
  8. plug to plug

    The inverter would supply the sockets by putting power into the circuit through one socket. The other sockets would be fed through the cabling between them. Still a silly thing to do.
  9. 12v electrical system

    Split charge relay used in vehicles with leisure batteries: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/160477-0-727-10-EQUIV-12V-100A-100-AMP-HEAVY-DUTY-SPLIT-CHARGE-RELAY-CAMPER-VAN-/201605769301?epid=1226699295&hash=item2ef0a3e855%3Ag%3ApqoAAOSwU-pXqbR0&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa27d01cb-7ada-11e7-92b7-74dbd1803b4b%7Cparentrq%3Ab8f2ddc015d0a88f59565b71fffffc81%7Ciid%3A15
  10. plug to plug

    The lead looks like a standard kettle lead so the inverter has the male pins. I agree that it probably senses the mains power. I hope that it cuts out if the plug is removed whilst in operation.
  11. plug to plug

    I'm surprised that some cheap grid-tie inverters do make the male pins live. The idea is to plug them into a socket and send the meter into reverse. Not even sure that that works. They apparently only work for grid-tie so presumably sense the mains before making the pins live. Wouldn't think of using one that works way myself. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000W-Grid-Tie-Inverter-230V-MPPT-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter-50Hz-60Hz-Send-From-UK-/371278811308?var=&hash=item5671f110ac%3Am%3AmhNbZ3g9DMYJMaNfdpGXC5g&_trkparms=pageci%3Ad842a0a2-7ad4-11e7-b981-74dbd1a01749%7Cparentrq%3Ab8ccebd115d0a9c9768ddf8bffffb8c2%7Ciid%3A1
  12. 48v bilge pump conundrum

    I was hoping to have a setup where nothing (such as charger etc.) needed to be running continuously if the boat is left for an extended period. I might have a separate bank with its own solar for bow thruster but it'll be 40' away so voltage drop becomes an issue.
  13. 48v bilge pump conundrum

    I'm finding it a little tricky to sort out bilge pumps for my 48v battery bank. I'd prefer not to have to use a DC/DC converter as that will be constantly operating needlessly for the vast majority of the time, hopefully! I can't find a 48v bilge pump so I thought a submersible with a float switch would work. Problem is that float switches seem to be rated at 12, 24, 32 and 230v. I've eliminated the 230v option. I wouldn't be too concerned about using the low voltage DC switch if the submersible pump was a similar power to standard bilge pumps but it's 100w. That's only about 2A but surge at start up is going to be multiple times that. Relays are an option but I'd like to eliminate as many possible weak links as possible. Appreciate any suggestions. Ta.
  14. Agh. That doesn't seem to have worked. It was supposed to link to the guy who's messed up a couple of times this week.
  15. Are you sure that it's not this guy again?
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