captain flint

I have no idea at all!

Thanks Tony. Makes sense. Not on board right now, will have a gander later, might post a photo

A couple of years back I had to replace my calorifier. The new one is the same size as the old one, but the hot water doesn't last nearly as long. This makes me think it's not full. Which would make sense. It lies on its side, so the inlets and outlets are positioned considerably lower than the top of the tank, and it was installed empty. I'm wondering if there's any straightforward way to bleed it? I can't think how you'd do it. Also if there's some way this could have been avoided in the first place I would be curious to hear about it. Of course, if we had filled it on end, and installed it full, that would have done it. But I'm guessing that it would be a heck of a job, even with a winch, as it sits in the engine bay on the counterpane. But maybe I'm wrong about that.

Good shout! I just followed the instructions which stated that the metal strip should go on the wall, but obviously it wouldn't make any difference to reverse them. It was the first time I'd used the stuff and hadn't been warned of/didn't think of rust coming through. I live and learn. Well I live, anyway. You never know, maybe I learn something on the good days, in which case this was one of them. Cheers!

Yeah I'm aware of how it works I guess I'm a little surprised how cold to the touch the frames and, to some extent, glad, considering these are the top of the range tb d/g windows. Extractor fans would help. I do pop some little bit quite powerful usb fans into the gap in the window in the bathroom when taking a shower... I know! 🤣 Though getting rid of it, having to store it in summer, and the metal strips round the window frames which tend to rust, was one of the bonuses of getting the new windows, or so I thought. I've been thinking about it. But the new internal window frames have screws in screw cups that stand a little proud so it would be tricky to do properly Yes it's the frames in mine that's the issue mainly. I did think the thermal break might be more effective. Wiping it off eh? Hadn't thought of that! 🤪

That's what I said! 😜 Not noticeably

I've just had new thermal break d/g windows installed. The external paintwork needed renewing, and on inspecting the old windows and their surrounds, it seemed like it was a good time for new windows. It was put to me that if the budget would stretch to it TB D/G was the way to go. I went with channelglaze. Previously I very seldom had any condensation, though it should be noted that during winter I had magnetic acryclic secondary glazing in place. That said, I don't remember having condensation over winter before I installed the sickest) secondary glazing. This doesn't exactly blow my mind, I figure the old windows weren't as airtight as the new ones. But, without having given it much thought before the install, it did take me by surprise. Any time I cook or have a shower I need to open some windows, and when I'm done, I need to wipe down all the window frames. It's no big deal. But I just wondered if others have had the same experience, and/or if there are any recommendations for anything further I should be doing.

Thanks. Can't quite work out whether it's worth it, as a load of it is simply inaccessible - I could treat the stuff I can reach, I guess, and that wouldn't be a bad thing, exactly, but if I leave half of it untreated I do wonder if it's really worth doing!

Thanks. From a very quick glance at their site this seems to be about rust prevention? I'm thinking about rust treatment at this point, which is not to say that's a bad shout

I've been fighting to get my bilge dry, as it was for years. Pretty sure it was rain water getting in, and optimistic I've now stopped that. And it's currently dry. My question is, when I can confirm that the bilge is staying dry, would I be advised to do something about the rust that's started? I'm thinking there's not really anything to be done nor much point trying, for two reasons: 1. It's mostly unaccessible. 2. There's not all that much of it (see and it shouldn't really increase much in the absence of further water ingress. But I don't know and if anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Photo attached

It's a bit confusing (to me, anyway). From the CRT website, regarding EOG moorings: 'The applicant must own the property or land and the boat' But then there's a separate section about 'Moorings which are accessed from private property on the offside of the canal' Which says: 'Moorings which are accessed from private property on the offside of the canal These are moorings where a third party landowner has agreed for a number of boats to be moored alongside their land adjacent to our water.' The land in question in my case is on the offside, but it's also a garden. No idea which applies, but then again, maybe CRT won't know either?!

Thanks all. Is the OS mooring fee a flat rate or variable? How much are we talking about here? I'm my case the garden owner would want to make some money on top of anything owing to CRT. I'm trying to work out if this would necessarily mean the mooring would be really expensive...

I read in the CRT notes that in order to apply for an end of garden mooring the applicant must own the land and the boat, and that subletting is not allowed. I had been hoping to rent a spot at the end of someone else's garden. I get that, in theory, this isn't allowed. But I know people who do. I will ask them how they managed next time I see them, but in the meantime I wondered if anyone here can shed any light on the matter..?

I mean, to be honest, this is pretty much nailed on what l will actually do. Possibly minus the glasses.

Thanks Tony