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Mohsen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London
  • Occupation
    Firefighter
  • Boat Name
    Not decided
  • Boat Location
    Sawbridgeworth

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  1. Good afternoon hive mind, I want to size a petrol outboard for a little 2x1m metal tender. I’ve never done this before so want to make sure it’s not under powered (like the current electric one is) nor so muscular I’ll look like James Bond in the Lea. Ignore the nest, those squatters have moved on.
  2. Evening ladies & gents, Ive got myself a moonraker tv ariel and a poynting 4G antenna. I want to put them on the same mast, as high up as is feasible. What does everyone else use for masts like this? Any ideas of how to temporarily clamp it to the boat whilst it is static? Cheers,
  3. That’s a good idea. Would do for some of the stuff that I might want to grab. However, some how it is bigger stuff like combi drill, multitool, containers holding liquids etc.
  4. Evening ladies and gents, I want to keep basic tools, engine spares, bits and bobs, a couple of jerry cans of spare diesel, engine fluids, whatever else, in my engine bay. Its a widebeam, so I have space. Question is, how to keep it all organised? I kinda think it would be good to weld something in, something modular that could house shelves, straps, holders, bungee cord etc. Has anyone done anything similar or have any ideas about what I could use? TIA
  5. Evening ladies and gents and Merry Xmas to all. Just a quick, not so christmasy question for those who have pigeon boxes or have lined them. What mechanism have you got to prop the hatches open? Any mechanisms that would do it incrementally? Most of what Ive found doesn't seem like it would do the job. Anyone go for a car bonnet style prop or a gas strut?
  6. NMEA? Only NMEA I know is NMEA2000 .... ?
  7. The following still needs to be done. 1) Pressure testing the system for leaks 2) Siting the aerator (I’m not exactly sure where this is supposed to go) 3) Setting up the boiler diesel feed in and return 4) Filling and testing the boiler 5) Plumbing the engine cooling to the calorifier coil 6) Plumbing the boiler to the calorifier coil 7) Installing a heat exchanger system to take hot water from the engine to heat the rads, incl limit stat, motorised valve, etc. As seen in the link below: http://boatbuildblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/last-tuesday-i-set-about-installing-new.html
  8. I'm looking for a plumber, which experience fitting diesel fired boiler or ideally ITR Hurricane Heaters, who is happy to travel to the Stansted area. I've done the donkey work, so just need some down for a day. I could attempt it myself but at this stage I'm happy to pay for someone with skills to finish the job. Anyone (know anyone) ?
  9. Wow this thread really has side tracked; serves me right for using the term Hi-Fi. If someone wanted to start converting physical media to digital media today, I would recommend flac/lossless format, without a doubt. Unfortunately when I started, MP3 was the only really viable solution, with 32GB hard drives considered big!
  10. Some interesting responses and clearly a lot of experience in this area. I had actually tried to insight a debate on which was more viable on a boat, especially regards DC vs AC. Dmr, the reason I have avoided a car stereo head unit in my hypothetical setup is because I have to get a Raspberry Pi to handle other aspects of my system, so I figured the HiFi Berry add on will provide adequate signal to the speakers via an amp. As you said, most car stereo's have aux input on the front, which isnt ideal. As for MP3's, it's obviously about storage space. I have around 300GB of music in MP3 format. If simply couldn't store that in CD format and in vinyl, no chance.
  11. Thats useful info cheers. So if you were placing that amp say 5m from the power source and trying to work out voltage drop to size cable, would you use that figure of 640watts? e.g. if I ran 10mm2, I calculate around 10% voltage drop between battery and amp. I am limited by a few factors, space being the obvious one on a boat and the fact that they will be playing MP3 (albeit high bit rate). I'm going for Raspberry Pi + HiFi Berry as none of the car stereo's I have found have the functionality I want. As for the headphones argument. I have a decent pair of sennheiser 25's. However, these don't work so well when others want to enjoy the music/movie. It shouldn't be assumed (although it always is by at least a few) that when someone wants a decent sound system, they intend to crank it up and disturb everyone else.
  12. After much research and advice from the wise fellows of the forum, I'm setting up a media server with Raspberry Pi + HiFi Berry. I had assumed that a 12v dc audio system, much like a cars, with amp, 2 way component speakers and a sub woofer, would be the most efficient way to create a sound of decent quality for less power consumption. However, after doing some hypothetical maths.... 2 Pairs of Speakers = 560 watts Subwoofer = 240 watts Amp = 640 watts https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-sxe-1750s_p-20265.htm https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-pwe-s8_p-33197.htm https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-pmx-f640_p-23894.htm Thats a lot of consumption and a lot of voltage drop to contend with. Are the figures stated on car audio products theoretical or are they typical? Might a 240v system be more efficient in this circumstance after all? Are there any other boaters with a HiFi / audiophile background who could offer an opinion or perhaps explain their setup? Many thanks
  13. My mrs and I work shifts and either of us is often getting up to shower whilst the other is in bed. i had thought of building a box with soundproofing to put it in. Though I'm not sure how well this would work.
  14. Thanks Rebotco. Can I ask, is the entire run to the pump 'downhill' or does the pipework raise before the pump creating negative lift?
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