Johny London

Ok, that's enough. I'm sure nobody wants to listen to your inane babble. I politely ask that we leave this and move on.

Not as funny as you though.

So do you.

I was trying to do just that - find out. That's why I asked and didn't accuse.

Non of this thread makes any sense now the op has edited the original post! I see Bridgemans has been liquidated! That makes my boat rare! (?)

Oh, if you were not working at Bridgemans when my hull was built, (but it sounded like you might have been) I can only clear you of any blame. It's a funny story - most of the boat is as straight as a die but it looks like the yts kid (or whatever they have now) finished off the handrails, stern doors and lockers! I did contact both Lymm and Bridgemans but never got any reply - just saying like. In a way it set the tone for my whole boating experience - some good, some not so good.

Got it off Lymm in 2016 (ordered 2015) it's a Cheshire cruiser.

I hope you are not one of the cowboys that built mine!

I did the Slough arm a couple winters ago - it's not too bad at all in terms of navigability and even picturesque (?) ness, at least for the most part. At the end is a rather down at hill mooring/turning/watering point (just as pictured of course!). Good I thought, hot bath tonite with an easy refill off the tap and no other boats around. Soon after mooring I became aware it was a cut through for a council estate and kids banging on the boat as they go past. So I untied and left. Never got to see the delights of Slough. I had to break ice all the way back too.

That's just a floating dormitory! Regarding baths, I have a 1200mm corner bath which looks smart and is a lot better than those hip bath things often found on older boats. And as said, some hire boats (particularly ones with integrated hull tank rather than a separate stainless steel tank) will hold a fair bit of water. Although of course the calorifier (or hot water cylinder) will be a limiting factor (biggest generally at 80litres). A bath makes a good "treat" once in a while when you have the water/are passing plenty water points etc but it is not for every day. As far as doing work on a boat - by all means be ready to adapt one or two things, (for example adding a stove if it's an ex hire boat without one) but unless you want a project DON'T take on too much work at all. Everything on boats is more difficult and more expensive and takes a lot longer. How you are going to pull off your search, I don't know!

Great - sounds like this could be the way forward for me. I'm uncertain about compatibility of different manufacturers breakers/consumer units. From my limited dealings think different breakers are physically different? 63a is perfect, a bit more than I get off any one array and I want a breaker on each array. The purpose is two fold - one to give me a good place to bring all the connections together, two to allow me to isolate the panels if/when I'm mucking around. So I would have each array connected into it's own breaker. the breaker outs to each controller (one per array) then controller outs commoned back to the master switch, then off to the batts. If the busing in the consumer unit allows things oeseparately hooked up - again I cant remember - seem to think there is common live rail but it can be split up? Ps: Been meaning to get into using ferrules, what do I need to get started?

Yeh I know about the different requirements for DC breakers, the one I linked to is for DC, the consumer unit is just bog standard. Not sure about compatibility though. I'll take a look at the Merlin Gerins.

Wanting to upgrade my solar connections now that I have a few panels and couple controllers or so, adding breakers would be good and I saw a few options, the neatest of which would appear to be consumer unit style ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63A-DC-Circuit-Breaker-MCB-Solar-Fuse-125v-Single-Pole-1P-Ebike-TOB1Z-63-C63/271990741484?epid=2098495247&hash=item3f53e959ec:g:URUAAOSw3YNXYTfc with a little consumer unit say: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/weatherproof-consumer-unit-modular-enclosure-RCD-MCB-contactor-switch-IP65-box/112896821422?hash=item1a492cc8ae:m:mrh8pMhkNMZE25CiEMGti_Q as I wouldn't necessarily need to include the master double pole switch, just four breakers. Or could get an eight way and include master. Is there a better way to do this? I see a lot of chinese looking stuff that I want to avoid! could maybe wire it so that breakers are between panels and mppt controllers and then the combined outputs go through the master switch?

How did you cross the channel? Not in the boat surely? What boat do you have? Pics of the area would be good too. Enjoy.

Just a question of coming to terms with how poorly lead acid batteries perform - the ever slowing crawl to recharge. Is the o/p going to be on the cut all the time? Winter? I'd be inclined to whack a load more solar on for a start. Unless you cruise every day of course. Maybe fit a smart gauge too? And a shoreline fridge!