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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
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mattcyp

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About mattcyp

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    Leeds & Liverpool

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  1. 10.5V at d+ on aux alternator

    Thanks for the inputs. I might try and catch Ian to see what he has to say. It's a shame the spare parts aren't available in the same way that a127s are though. The Lucas Industries wikipedia page did turn up this though: " With a monopoly in place, Lucas proceeded to supply electrical equipment that was commonly cited as the best reason not to buy a British car ". Sir Nibble, thanks. I've sent you a PM
  2. 10.5V at d+ on aux alternator

    Thanks for the reply. I'm surprised that it's not a prestolite - the one I picuted is identical in every external way to the one on my boat. I'm near Skipton on the L&L so if you do know any local specialists, that would be great.
  3. 10.5V at d+ on aux alternator

    Thanks for the input all. A blown field diode sounds plausible. Bulding on Pearley's suggstion of fitting a new diode assembly sounds worth a try. Does anyone know where I can source them from? There are plenty of units on ebay (e.g. link), but plenty of results for Lucas a127 that don't look the same as my alternator (e.g. the picture below), so I'm concerned it won't fit (and trying not to dismantle the unit as it's getting a fair bit of use at this time of year). Thanks again. Ps Tony - I think it's only done 300 or 400 hours so I'm keen to keep it going. An exchange alternator is on my mind though. Edited to add (and tidy up), a bit more googling suggests it's the alternator below, which I haven't had much luck looking for parts for (ebay link). Prestolite 66021590M:
  4. 10.5V at d+ on aux alternator

    Hi all, The title is the short version - My auxillary alternator warning light is staying on despite the alternator pushing out it's usual current (I think - it's at least pretty much the same) and a quick investigation with a mulitmeter found 10.5v at the d+ stud. From my understanding of how warning lights work, one side is supplied with +12 (or more likely 13 - 14.7 when cruising) and before the alternator is excited the other is at 0v, causing the bulb to light. When running normally the d+ terminal would see roughly the same as the b+ terminal and so with no potential difference across it, the bulb goes out. In my case, I think the 2 or 3 volts across the bulb is keeping it on. This isn't such an immediate problem at this time of year as when sailing the alternator just pushes out max currenty all the time, but once the batteries get near to absorption charge (14.7v for me) there is minimal drop in current and the alterntor will just keep charging until the batteries reach a high voltage (it got to 15.5v ish before I noticed). Probably foolishly, I replaced the regulator (it was only £10 on ebay) but this has made no change. Does anyone have a suggestion for what to try next? Here's a pictuer of the alternator, though I can go back for more. It's the 90a auxillary fitted on a canlaine 38.
  5. Brass hatch slide grrrr moment!

    For anyone who ever stumbles on this, Lower Park marina in Barnoldswick has a basket of individual hatch sliders. Not sure if they'd post, but they might.
  6. Internal Stove Collar/Trim Distance?

    Andy, I just found this useful thread after googling for the aluminium oxide ceramic wool that you mention in your blog - odd to come full circle and see your blog pop up again! Where did you buy the aluminium oxide ceramic wool from? I haven't had much luck in looking for it online. Or I'd be interested to hear of any other suggestions for a material to use there? Cheers, Matt
  7. Thanks firesprite - that makes sense. With that in mind, I'm plannin to use a 610mm sheet in the middle with two strips or around 100mm on the edges (so there are two joins, but both are a long way from the hottest bit of the surrons as they're quiter near the edges. Would you make the lap/ mitre joins with the plane of the lap perpendicular to the direction heat is travelling, or perpendicular to it? Parallel: ____\\__________//______ ________ | Fire | | | Perpendicular (if that makes sense): ____//__________\\______ ________ | Fire | | |
  8. Yeah, they have been very helpful in putting me onto Skamotec 225, but couldn't send a piece bigger than 610 by 1000mm out to me. They did suggest some glue for joins, but I wasn't quite sure how well it would mantain the heatproofness. Thanks for the input Matt
  9. Apologies for another fire thread, but I haven't managed to find any info on my current question so far. BS8511 says that the hearth should extend 150mm to the sides of the stove so, for a squirrel which is 388mm wide that would be a 688mm wide hearth. The BS then goes on to say that the vertical fireboard behind the stove should be as wide as the hearth. This makes sense, but I can't find a supplier of either Skamol Super Isol (e.g. Midland chandlers) or Skamol Skamotec 225 (which has lower conductivity values than the super isol) that comes in boards bigger than 1000mm by 610mm. So, to me the choice appears to be either have a slightly narrower hearth and vertical back than the regs suggest, or to have to buy two sheets and try and put a join (and potential weak spot) somewhere on the vertical back. Has anybody else come across this conundrum, and if so, a solution. Thanks!
  10. Cheers for the info Mac. I'm going to get my hands on a Morso flue kit next week so I'll have a measure.
  11. I agree that double walled flues are hassle (at least in the design stage). Mac, are you suggesting something like this: link. If so, how do I work out if it would work with the Morso flue (which is described as 5'', but the inner pipe is 5 1/4'' od). Cheers for the input.
  12. Thanks for the info. Was that a double walled flue for its entire length? If it's single walled, male down would make sense as it's quite different from the way double walled flues join: | | | | | | | | | | | | __________| |____________ Midland chandlers were quite useful on the phone and explained that the inner pipe of the flue fits inside the stove collar (which is slightly tapered), with the outer sitting outside (and normally flush with the top of the stove). Something like this: | | | | | | | | | | | | | \ | | / | __________| |____________ Or this:
  13. I'm looking to install a fire in my narrowboat and want to use the Morso double wall flue kit for a few reasons (it looks quick to install, it fits with the recommendations of bs8511 etc) but don't want to buy a Morso stove and instead much prefer the Hobbit. I've searched on the forum and haven't found anything about mixing the two. I understand the Morso flue is designed to fit "a 5 inch morso collar", whereas the hobbit is 4 inch. Is a converter a possibility? Also, the Morso flue kit talks of male and female joints. Am I right in imaging what I've tried to picture below, with male joints facing upwards and sitting inside a female joint (on the installation instructions for the deck plate it mentions the importance of male facing upwards), with one of these joints between lower pipe and the stove, then between the two pieces of pipe, then again to the collar, and again from the collar to chimney? | | | | | | | | | | | | || || || || || || || || || || || || | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | However, when I look at the Morso stove collars (4 inch and 143mm od), I don't quite understand how they work with the flues. Any advice would be gratefully received! Also, edited to add a picture of the Morso flue that roughly shows some of the different joins.
  14. Brass hatch slide grrrr moment!

    That would be absolutely superb - thank you! I'll pm to discuss further.
  15. Brass hatch slide grrrr moment!

    nicknorman, what did you eventually do to replace the missing part? I also took the hatch off today to varnish it and watched as one of the brass runners went flying.
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