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micky1010

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  1. Thanks Rusty, the houses are 4 sealed lead acid and the engine a standard lead acid, I can put the fridge on and all the lights and tv etc. think It will be ok for about a 5 hour trip without cooking them?
  2. Does anyone know how long I can run the engine without killing the batteries if they are receiving 14.8v, I need to move the boat soon so just wondering if a few minutes will be all I can do or if they will survive a few hours at this rate ?
  3. Thanks all but I'm no wiser as some are saying these volts are all fine and other saying the controller is at fault. I still really need an electrical person who would come out and not just investigate the issue but replace what needs replacing as I cannot use the engine until this is fixed. Does anyone know someone who would cover the Lichfield area they can recommend?
  4. It is an A460 they said, 70A I do not know the make I'm afraid. If it is the controller then what is best to replace it, I have read elsewhere a lot of people saying just go with a straight forward split charge diode but I would prefer something to control the charge to each bank safely, would a sterling pro r split charge be a straight replacement ? The engineer today said they are fine when he tested the voltage with everything disconnected. the house bank is a year and a half old now and the engine bat only half a year old.
  5. Not sure as I did not do this it was the engineer, but I believe it was 14.8 on the batteries when it was connected directly. So it does look like the sterling controller that is at fault?
  6. It is set to sealed lead acid which is correct as this I have 4 of these for the domestic bank and 1 normal lead acid as starter battery.
  7. The controller is a sterling ab12160 and the warning light is the 'high alternator voltage' light, according to the manual when this is on: LED 7 - HIGH ALT VOLTS (red) This LED indicates that the unit has tripped because of high voltage (>15.5V) on the alternator. It usually means that the alternator’s own regulator has failed.Check the voltage and, if necessary, stop your engine as soon as possible and disconnect the alternator input cable, or you will boil and destroy your batteries! The batteries are taking 14.4v from the mains charger/inverter which is correct as per the engineers who have been out but it goes up to 14.7 when charging from the alternator, the voltage on the back of the alternator was at 15.15v. They should be more or less fully charged as I do not use too much 12v being in the marina on shore power, it is only lights that are drawing 12v power.
  8. Hi all, I have been having an issue for the past few months with high voltage from the alternator. The boat has a sterling alternator to battery regulator and this had a warning light on for high alternator volts, so I measured the voltage it was putting out at the batteries and it is 14.75 which I believe is too high. I was advised it would be the voltage regulator on the alternator that had failed and so have had a new alternator fitter by RCR as it is covered by their parts replacement, however after the engineer left the warning light came back on and it was back to overcharging again. RCR came back, fitted another new alternator, still over volts, tested all wiring and connections, all were fine even wired the alternator direct to the batteries cutting out the sterling alternator controller and it was still high voltage and so they said they couldn't help anymore as it would require deeper investigation. They arranged another engineer to come out and investigate further, he has checked the alternator and confirmed it as fine, checked all the batteries and confirmed they are fine, check all connections and they are fine. He believes it must be the sterling alternator controller that is causing the issue but did not attempt to disconnect it or tell me what I would need to buy to replace it which is what I want doing as I just want it fixed. I am not 100% convinced this has failed as the unit has a unit fail warning light that is supposed to come on if it has failed and should shut down if it does fail which has not happened, and the original RCR bloke wired the alternator direct to the battery and it was giving out high volts. I need to find an electrical engineer in the midlands who could come out and strip out the sterling controller and replace it with a new one or a split charge system of some sort, I cannot take the boat to a boat yard as I do not want to run the engine as it will damage the batteries and there is nothing in our marina, does anyone know of someone who will be able to come out and not just check what needs doing bet also replace anything that needs it?
  9. I have the above alternator to battery split charger and a warning light has just come on it which is for high alternator volts, after checking the manual it says to check the output at the back of the alternator which i have and this is 14.6 volts which sounds about right to me. Could there be another fault or is the warning light incorrect and the device possibly on its way out?
  10. My father is a volunteer lock keeper and trains all the volunteers who work his flight, He would be shocked by the actions of the volunteer you had, they would be dismissed immediately if the CRT were told of this, volunteer or employee. All volunteers are instructed to wait until the boats skipper gives them permission to open any paddles and then they have to ask if you want it full open or partially. As an unfit single hander I welcome every volunteer and help I come across,I wish every lock was manned at all times it would greatly increase my ability to travel further afield. The help I have had through the atherstone and fradley locks has been invaluable, it would have taken me whole days to get through them otherwise.
  11. Yes it is the nuts on the front of the stern tube where the propshaft from the gearbox goes in . I will tighten it up and see if this stops the grease leak thanks.
  12. Great thanks, I'll tighten it some more. Should it be tight tight or just tight?
  13. Hello all, I had my driveplate replaced a few months ago and the engineer loosened the stern tube in order to slide the propshaft back to remove the gearbox and then forgot to tighten it again afterwards. I have tightened it myself upto when I met slight resistance, ever since I have a grease emulsion leaking from the front of the stern tube around the propshaft where it now drops into the bilge and gets splattered around the bay as the propshaft spins. Does this mean I have over tightened it or not done it tight enough?
  14. Just curious why shaft mounted rope cutters are not in wide use on canal boats as they are on seagoing yachts such as the below? They are commonplace on yachts due to the likelihood of getting a trailing rope on the prop or from a lobster pot or fishing line and you don't have the option of a weed hatch on a yacht or being able to wade in and clear the prop, they work very well at chopping any ropes or weeds that would get wrapped round otherwise. Apart from the risk to fingers while prodding around through the weedhatch I cannot see any reason why you could not use them and as long as you know it is there you should be able to avoid it while having a grope through the hatch. http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/propeller-rope-cutter-test-30012
  15. Thank you all for your advice, the smartguage seems to be the one for me.
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