Gavin Brunton

Anyone know what the BSS numbers are I'm looking for?

So After a few hours getting dirty Ive fixed it. The compression joint at the difficult to reach tank outlet was undone. Also discovered that RCR hasn't changed my secondary fuel filter was leaking in the fuel line between the second filter and lift pump. It was cracked a little near the compression. Ive cut two small pieces of 8mm copper and joined them with a piece of halfords 5/16 rubber fuel line. Is there and Safety issues with not using copper all the way though so close to the engine? I also added a cheap laser squezey priming pump to make leading the engine 100 times easier and it let me discover and leaks. For the record this is the second time RCR broke my boat and I've had to fix it. The first time I was told I needed an additional 4 hours work at 40 quid a pop. I bleed the engine in 10 mins and got it started after discovering they had left several compressions undone. FYI my heater has never been a problem. It just needs electricity from my alternator.

Yes It was working

The Hurricane heater has its own pick up separate from the engine and they are lower in the tank than the engine ones which was a mistake on my part. I had a service from RCR and They left me with a no functioning engine. I cant wait until next thursday for them to return. I am annoyed but I want to focus on fixing my engine as it Snowing and I need power for my heater to keep warm. Ive sucked on the return feed and it makes a slurping sound as well! Starnge for them both to do that?

Hi all, Im trying to bleed my engine the thing is Ive just put 30l into the tank ,which wasn't empty as my diesel heater was working before, and when I suck on the pipe that goes between the tank and the Primary fuel filter I am hearing a slurping noise like when you get to the end of a soft drink with a straw. i can get fuel if i suck hard enough but as soon as i stop sucking and form a seal with my mouth the fuel returns to the tank. My questions are; - Surely over 30l would be enough to reach my fuel pick ups? - Normally fuel pickups inside the tank stainless? Could the pick up inside of been corroded and has holes in it? -is it common for the tanks to rot and leak the fuel inside the boat somewhere? Is the Tank double skinned and is leaking into the second cavity?

I had the hurricane going through the back boiler before without a problem. It warms the fire up a bit bit that makes it easier to light. I generally only have the hurricane on for an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening then then once the boat is warm I just use the fire

Motorised valve could work yes would I just need one on the flow pipe? Also in the gravity feed system I was going to have a large cast iron rad on a thermostatic valve and small rad in the bathroom with a normal valve so the back boiler has flow when the trv turns off . would trv impede the thermo syohon?

Hi the system has a jabsco circulation pump and also I've fitted a second header tank on the gravity feed side.

Hi all wanted some advice on my heating. I have a hurricane boiler in my engine bay feeding rads on both sides of my boat. On the port side in the middle of the boat I have my stove fitted with a water jacket and the pipe work jumps to 28mm and a gravity feed system feeds the furthest radiator at the bow of the boat port side. This means that when the hurricane isn't on and I'm just using the stove that my bedroom at the bow of the boat is still staying warm. I was planing to have s couple manual vales to isolate the stove and its gravity feed system when the hurricane is off to ensure the gravity feed functions properly. Then I thought could I put an automatic bypass valve on the hot pipe just before the stove so that if the hurricane came on it would automatically open the loop to the last rad? If the hurricane is off the the pressure drops on one side of the auto bypass valve and it isolates the gravity feed loop and stove. Would this work?

Well thanks all you've got me started tonight and I'm feeling confident now I have had some sound advice. I have an other question about puting an automatic bypass valve in my system so I'm going to start another thread Cheers all

Hi I've been looking through previous posts for information on the angles of gravity feed pipes and have as yet only found one suggestion of 5cm rise per 100cm. Im using 28mm copper and feeding a large cast iron radiator 4m from the stove. Also I was planing to enter the rad at the top on the side nearest the stove and exit on the bottom also nearest the stove. Is this the correct way to do it? If my pipe was slightly steeper should this eork? I'd 10cm per 100cm?

Hi I'm planing to move my stove any help on disc robing the process and materials needed would be much appreciated.

OK so its a beta 55 on a cruiser stern 50x10. thats as much as i know

Im one again tapping into the vast pool of your collective wisdom. I need to replace engine mounts that have gone soft. is this a DIy able Job? are the mounts generic and whats involved? Many thanks

This is exactly the scenario i envisage Thanks for the input.