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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. Improve Fridge Efficiency

    Quite a few (all?) of the current chinese made undercounter units don't have external condenser grids. If the fan only runs when the compressor runs and uses say 3% of the power that the compressor does, it only needs to reduce the runtime of the compressor by 3% to be worthwhile. Generally I'd say that a large slow running fan will move air more quietly and efficiently than a smaller fan. Most PC fans seem to happily run from as little as 5 volts. Doesn't really need to blow air up from the bilge either, just increasing the airflow round the condenser will help.
  2. Improve Fridge Efficiency

    Depends on the temp of the condenser (as said, sometimes the shell itself) and heat buildup behind/around the fridge. If the condenser doesn't get more than lukewarm and there's good natural ventilation around the fridge, then it's unlikely to make a biiig difference, but still maybe worth a try, most likely to help in high summer. If the condenser is built into the shell, the heat will probably come from the sides and not the back, worth bearing in mind if the fridge is a tight fit in a cubby hole.
  3. New 3 mobile internet 100GB

    4G >>> 3G I get fairly weak 4G on EE but it still speed tests at 20Mb/5Mb with 33ms ping.
  4. Buying Batteries

    I predict that at least part of the problem is that the correct charge voltage isn't used, especially in winter temperatures - maybe as much as 16V for some batts. Have you done some EQ every week or so over summer on yours, if so how are the SGs recovering? I guess that some who buy these type batts have been somwhat persuaded that they're a panacea, where have I heard that before? hmmmm...
  5. Buying Batteries

    Sounds like you start the day with SoC 78-80, take a bit out then charge it straight away. Still what I'd call relatively light use.
  6. Buying Batteries

    Sounds like shallow discharges and relatively light use on the whole, which is probably going to help. ISTR there's at least couple of CCers on here with the same batt type who seem to be fighting some capacity loss in the winter months, I suspect that's partly due to the charge voltage not being high enough for winter temperatures.
  7. Buying Batteries

    You have just GOT be winding me up, sulphuric acid does NOT just 'settle out' on it's own. Talk to a chemist, or Mr Google for some research papers on diffusion. Why not just point people to something like The Battery FAQ, there's good info there and I can't fault it really. If a car mfr says to use certain grades of oil in their engine, do they have to qualify that with a full explanation of the tribology behind it, accessible to the layman? Since Multicell are more budget orientated I don't think it reasonable to expect similar, maybe Trojan etc can supply more info for their batts. With my engineering hat on I just accept that a batt mfr is going to know what's best for their product, and to stick to that.
  8. Buying Batteries

    I was responding to a post regarding stationary standby batts, which were never discharged from new and so never got stratified. If you're not discharging and recharging, how is some acid going to get heavier than the remaining acid?
  9. Buying Batteries

    If their manufacturer requires a certain charge voltage, they'd be stupid not to pass that requirement on the their customers. At least they're being honest about this requirement, I'd bet they'd love to allow lower charge voltages as that would only increase sales. I don't see that as making them 'not fit for purpose' for marine use as such. From a quick web search it looks like Mastervolt AGMs call for 14.25V and Vetus AGMs call for 14.4V then 14.8V in two current limited stages! Anyway it seems most narrowboaters are best off with bog standard leisures, AGMs are more suited to the off shore lumpy water brigade who are a lot more dedicated about their kit - with good reason! Nevertheless a few boaters buy the Trojan/US Battery type batts which need up to 15.5V, maybe they do that with programmable solar controllers or batt chargers instead of alternators.
  10. Buying Batteries

    Yep, there's your reason right there. Bit hard to cause stratification if the SG of the acid never changes!
  11. Buying Batteries

    Sounds like they got their wires crossed and meant 14.8V in acceptance. At least they're trying to get the correct info. Maybe they had a load of warranty returns from people charging them at 14.4V, especially if for example these customers blindly followed misleading statements in the manual of their combi/charger, Sterling springs to mind. Have you a linky to their website where they give the charging requirements?
  12. Buying Batteries

    Yes, I'd have thought a lower than recommended charge voltage won't break down sulphation as well, and lead to capacity loss over time. Also some (all?) wet batts may rely on some gassing to de-stratify the electrolyte if the batt is fairly stationary, like on a narrowboat. Seems the non sealed el cheapos do OK on 14.4V, maybe their design is tailored for when older vehicles only charged up to that voltage.
  13. Buying Batteries

    Multicell almost certainly get their AGMs made by another manufacturer, and are just passing on their charging requirements. If the charging equipment can't generate the voltages needed, there's many other brands of AGMs, and other types of lead acid batt. Maybe buying AGMs from the likes of Trojan and US Battery would get you access to a better source of technical help if they make them in house. My gut feel is that a correct charge voltage is best for getting the batts out of deep discharge, and that the belief that any old lower voltage will do, is probably mistaken It did come about in the Gibbo era :). IMHO it MIGHT work OK-ish for shallow discharges but take that as information only. I would expect that in order to get the supplier/manufacturer to stand behind their product, you need to follow their charging requirements.
  14. 16A input fitting

    This looks promising: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16A-240V-Blue-Angled-Appliance-Inlet-Wall-Mounted-Plug-Caravan-Hookup-/192248775653 Failing that a pic of the area where it's going may help get some good ideas.
  15. If planning to liveaboard then maybe a Morco instant gas water heater would be a more dependable source of hot water, if a little limited in winter. Unless a hydronic Webasto is installed as well as a registered installer should do it (they charge premium prices and are alway busy, why is this? ), it may not be as reliable as it should be in the longer term.