Jump to content

BEngo

AdministratorDonate to Canal World
  • Posts

    5,699
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by BEngo

  1. Lay it on a fairly substantial (athicker than 6mm) sub-sub floor. Ensure there is a vapour barrier below the sub-sub floor. Builders 1000 gauge polythene is good. Ideally you want some access hatches to below the sub floor. One at the back to get at any water that builds up in the bilge and others so you can adjust yhe ballast. N
  2. IIRC the Vanette re-references the oven low flame to a larger flame at gas 5 and above. Hence the variation in gaps between the numbers. So any old numbered knob that fits will not do, but if you can find a clean new knob you could step through the settngs on the old one and transfer them across to the new one. N
  3. If they were both molten they would not be dissolving. Usually one, solid, metal is put into the main constituent metal in liquid form. The solid dissolves into the liquid. There are a few instances where the larger constituent is dissolved into the liquid smaller constituent. N
  4. You could also try Bridport Foundry and the folk in Madeley (madeleybrass castings.co.u) that do the BCNS explorer plaques. Procast Nottingham (www.procast-shop.com) have also been known to do one-offs as well as their narrowboat brassware.. N
  5. Plenty of people selling Golden Film SAE 30 online. Classic Oils usually have it, or an alternative like Beetlejuice. I believe Morris's do mail order. They are not usually the cheapest. Otherwise any mineral oil SAE 30 to API CC will be fine. Suppliers as Tracy suggests. N
  6. I would start by checking that the 240 v outpilut is not actually centre tapped 120,0,120 V. If it is centre tapped go for option 4. Fit a different socket only if you need to, and can maintain the IP rating ( 1st digit) of the inverter. Then if fitting a different socket just connect blue to neutral and brown to line. Keep the NE bond inside the inverter, though an external label to say it is bonded might help your heirs and assigns one day. The euro plug going in either way is not a problem, rather it is a design feature; -the appliance earth wire is connected either way and AC appliances don't care about N and L. N
  7. The River Tove runs in from the right about 100m below Stoke B bottom lock. It runs out again over a series of big brick weirs on the left after the lock landing/ services moorings. The last one is near the next bridge. Beware of the cross current. Mooring on the services should be fine, but you are in the SB mooring zone, so read the signs ( if they are not underwater🙂) . Assuming it is not forecast to rain heavily again: After the weirs it should be OK to Cosgrove, though there is another weir on the left approaching Cosgrove which may have a pull. Depending on water levels you may be able to moor in the usual spots, but I would put good and extra pins in if doing that. The rings in Cosgrove itself (from the fancy bridge to the services) should be OK if the level is not too high. At least if the water is up the wide but shallow bit near the Castlethorpe marina should be easier. N
  8. Have a look at the trip-boat Edward Elgar website. N
  9. Our Johnson has 3/4 in hose connections and is fitted to 22mm pipe in the main circ loop , with 15mm radiator drops and risers. It sucks from the return pipe. The pump is controllled by a cylinder thermostat on the stove output. The stat has a bypass switch for test and bleeding purposes. The stat switches the pump on when the stove outlet is above about 70C . It spends most of its life off, because at low stove firing rates the boat is warm enough from natural circulation. N
  10. A scour of the internet for solar hot water pumps will find you several possibilities. Some will be chinese carp. Features you want are: Long design life Brushless Magnetic drive Quiet I have a Johnson, backing up gravity circulation from a Morso Squirrel solid fuel stove.which ticks the first three but is not really quiet. N
  11. As far as I know they are, but... Last time I looked at he online listing the Bergius stuff had not been catalogued. That means making appointments, going to Gleska and spending time looking for what you want. I think I found the details by googling Kelvin Archive. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=http://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/data/gb248-ugd366&ved=2ahUKEwijq9qxuo2FAxX_RUEAHbx8B18QFnoECA8QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2OXhUBUvojwOvzDmdHom3v The above link points to U Glasgow archive UGD 366. The National Archive also points to UGD 367, and says that contains 20th Century drawings. If that includes the Model J,K,L drawings it would beca gold mine for spares reproduction. N
  12. I think the Bergius Co originals were made from the sort of thing time served patternmakers could knock out easily, either an an apprentice job or as a time filler. The originals were bronze. If there ever was a factory drawing it may well be in the Glasgow University archive, where many Kelvin papers and drawings went. Dick Goble had some made a few years back. I would not be surprised to find he still had the pattern, though he may have used an original as a pattern. It is a very simple thing to mould. Mine looks as though it was poured into an open mould in a single mouldbox, leaving an as-cast back.p I doubt that anyone has prepared a 3D digital drawing though a laser scan of an original would not need much work to make it useable as a model for a digitally printed pattern. Painting in the blue sky and the green sea is fun! N
  13. 22 psi is too high. For best effect the accumulator wants to be set about 1 -2 psi below the cut in pressure , not the cut out pressure. You can find the cut in pressure by setting the accumulator to about 10 psi, then open a tap to run slowly and turn the pump and tap OFF immediately the pump starts to run. Measure the presure. This is the cut in pressure. Note it for future use. Open a tap until water stops. Pump the accumulator up to about 1 or 2 psi less than the pressure measured previously. Turn the taps off and the pump ON. Job jobbed. Or try Tracy's method. N
  14. The Kitchen rudder was popular in several RN roles. There are previous threads on here. I think they lasted longest in the Hydrographic survey launches. Dartmouth had a few., too. Very manoeuverable system in capable hands , a bugger to learn to drive well. N
  15. Standard Hoselock type fittings are versatile and there is a good variety. Should you need bespoke, If you have half-inch hose a piece of 15mm copper pipe can be inserted and retainex by a jubilee clip. You can then fit a 15mm compression lever ball valve to the copper pipe and another piece of pipe to the valve. The last piece of pipe can be modified to suit the tasks you have. Open end fits in the tank filler, Small holes drilled along the pipe give you a sprinkler, for example. Note the advice above regarding stop valvves and water pressure. N
  16. Mirka make a dust free sander. Aylesbury Canal Society provides one as part of the hire charge for their wet dock. Most modern professional power tools come with or have available a dust extraction kit in order to keep the H&S folks happy. There are several auto start vaccum cleaner on the market. These flash up the suction as soon as the power tool which is plugged in to the vacuum socket starts. N
  17. I don't think this is the case. IIRC Capella's replacement ellum and hydraulic drive were fabricated in Aylesbury basin by Tony Harmer, as part of the process of putting a cabin on and moving from ' The Lady Val' To Capella. I remember being shwn progress and was surprised that all the 'fixed' pipework was run in hydraulic hose rather than rigid pipework and fittings. WFBC may well have provided advice. I know John Pattle was involved to some extent in the hydraulic equipment choices. Sue Cawson or Judith Clegg may well have some photos of 'Renown'. That has a stern tube and ventilation plates with an SR3 under the hatches. I think it was lifted more than once as part of the Aylesbury lift-outs, so there should be photos of that around N
  18. 2 or 3x2 timber on the bearers is common. It should be treated timber. Insulation is not common, but closed cell polyurethabe type sheet (celotex) will not absorb water if there isxa flood. Ventiation below the floor is essential as are hatches to check what is happening. One at the back will enable you to get at any water that has run along the bilge. Using a fridge fan to draw air through the bilges is a good trick. 18mm Good-One-Side ( shuttering ) ply is a good and common floor material. Scaffold boards are too likely to move independently of each other as the weight comes on, unless you groove the sides and fit a loose tongue. They are also rough edged so wont fit closely together. They would be all right iif finished up neatly and laid over a ply or OSB floor. N
  19. I woulx turn the pump off, and let the pressure out at a working tap. Then remove the tap headworks as if changing the washer and turn the pump back on till water emerges. You may get quite a lot so be prepared. Then pump off and reassemble. N
  20. Toothed belts are very much more sensitive to tension than V and wedge belts. Get it wrong and belt life is very short. Certainly a car alternator type swivel tension arrangement is feasible, but getting it set 'right ' is likely to be difficult and slow. A proper tensioner makes things a lot easier. Often the tensioner is an extra wheel which can also help with any wrap problems. N
  21. Possible, but I rather think that the misalignment needed to operate the Kelvin box would mean the chain had a short life. One Kelvin characteristic which might help, if there is any internal information about Edith, is that they needed a transverse engine bed. Very few, if any other diesels did. The design of the engine is such that it will not fit conventional longitudinal beds.
  22. I think a single K2 at 44 hp would have been fine in Edith in the hands of an experienced skipper. Knowing the tiver and the estuary seems to have been an exssential part of working Severn, and fools ( and their craft) did not last long. A good skipper would know how not to get into situations where 44 hp was not enough to get out again. Good decisions come from experience. Experience- what you get from poor decisions. Regardless, the props on the Saul shot do not look suited to a K2 at all, though they do appear to me to be of the right hand. N
  23. Twin props off a single engine would be unusual, but lnot impossible. The two props showm look similar, so ig is not a main engine/ less powerful wing engine set up. The Kelvin K series ( except the K6) came with a built-in, non reducing gearbox as standard. (It is a part of the engine, effectively.) This has the peculiarity that the output shaft moves fore and aft in order to change between ahead and astern, and the propellor thrust is what holds it in gear. A chain lash up as suggested above would therefore be difficult. It seems to me more likely that two engines were fitted when photographed on dock at Saul. And the K2 was installed after that. Only one engine need have reversing gear fitted, used for manoeuvring, with the other only used for ahead work. The large sailing rudder would have helped. What was the propellor arrangement when dumped at Purton?
  24. Have you checked that the inside of the stove is clean, particularly below the top flue inlet and behind the back boiler or on top of the baffle plate? CO production soars if the fuel is damp. If the stove was OK CO wise 36 hours after filling, then something has changed after that. I would expect the stove to be out and cold by then, (mine struggles to go for much over 24 hours) as it seems you did. A stove that is out does not produce CO. I would be inclined to look again for possible other sources of CO or gases that trigger CO alarms. Is the alarm OK- does it pass the joss stick check? N
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.