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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
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Crow

Member
  • Content count

    226
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About Crow

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Welder
  • Boat Name
    Peppermint pig
  • Boat Location
    Lincoln

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  1. Micaceous Iron Oxide vs. Bitumen

    I'd get that pigeon sxxx weld sorted as well ,prime location for a leak on that start/ stop ,undercut and lack of sidewall fusion
  2. Micaceous Iron Oxide vs. Bitumen

    I don't really know a lot about stopping it getting worse,but if that lot was on a transit van chassis or in the bottom of my boat,I'd either wax oil it or spray a load of waste oil and diesel mix on it ,it soaks in everywhere,I might be wrong ,but I recon all paint will do is seal in the rust already in it and Itl still keep rusting, there's one thing for sure ,my two methods stand more chance of stopping further corrosion ,well only till some one can convince me otherwise
  3. J Wilson is the one to get a boat built by, Itl be cock on with that plate, I've just done a quick calc it's a bit approx but 40 ft x 6 ft boat at 10 tonn ish is only going to make a pressure of Less than 1 pound a sq inch when in the water, a bean tin would hold more pressure,I think the only reason boats are getting thicker is to allow for corrosion allowance on inferior plate,and if I was getting some over plating done on a big expensive boat I'd want tell tale holes drilling and tapping to fit a scraider valve to pressurise and leak test the welds ,as if there's any pin holes or porosity to the parent metal waters going to get between them plates and that's the last thing you want Itl bulge and rot worse than ever
  4. Well if I was a steel river/ canal boat fabricator I'd be buying the cheapest plate going,as will everyone else,, is there any weld tests or any other stipulations required ,and is there any test certs required,or welder quals and weld procedures needed to make a boat for river work,I wouldn't think so,is there any radiographs or ndt required to make and sell a narrow boat,if not there all going to be built cheap and cheerful ,some a bit better than others ,some making more profit than others,now my old springer is made of 3 MM hardox it's 35 years old and still 2.8 MM so it is all about the steel ,we used to make boilers out of corten .its like everything ,you get what you pay for and that Chinese monkey metal is what your getting nowdays,
  5. Crow

  6. I think not, if you don't ask for British steel, complete with test certs , Itl be from India or China and full of lamination ,I weld pressure vessels to lloyds ,Dnv,ici,cornhill,British engine,national Vulcan,and other insurance company rules and regs,not one of them will accept Chinese steel , any way, why doesn't any one with a dodgy water line get it overplated in stainless,3 MM is plenty ,and weld it with a 29/9 rod Itl be just the same in 100 years ,crow.(peppermint pig)
  7. I'll have to clear it up ,sorry thrust bearings,
  8. No buddy that's not the plan at all,that z drive will be redundant .in its place will be a steerable drive motor driven of a pump mounted to engine backplate. And as my old tubs only worth 11k tops I'll not be spending a fortune on pumps and motors there's enough stuff on e bay and elsewhere for not a lot of money ,and that's the way I'm going.all I need to know is cc of motor and pump and I think that's all in hand now
  9. This is how I want to make it , but without hydraulic steering,the guides on the transom allow motor and prop to be lifted and the whole lot pivots on Plummer bearings,
  10. Thanks Brian. At least I know to look for pos displacement ,there's many sorts, it's understanding what's good and bad for my application, but am already getting a start on my apprenticeship on this forum ,at least I now know how to get a ratio and to ensure it's got thrust washers,
  11. Thanks. It's going on a 25 ft springer , as by the time I've spent 2.5 k on a total rebuild on a Enfield leg that will still be a 40 year old agricultural money pit I'd be better to source some nice close tolerance modern items and make my own drive , the amount of good usable items to make it I'll find in scrapyards and e bay , I'm in no rush it's just getting to know what I need .im all ears but would have thought my road sweeper brush drive motors would have inner and outer thrusts built in the amount of hammer they get , I'll check .
  12. Yes your cock on with that I never thought about that . Bit of a rethink
  13. Was going to fit prop directly onto motor output shaft where the rotary brush fitted it wouldn't know if it had a prop or a brush on or am I missing something at a very early stage ,I've seen some reedman weed cutter drives that I want to copy or take ideas from
  14. Thanks tony. Well that's a start . Maybe if iWork from my existing prop size back to the motor and pump t might be the way to go. I've just got a drive motor off a small road sweeper front brush set I'll make a start with that .
  15. Is there any member who can assist me size a system ,and advise on type of motor and pump for my mission to modify my existing drive to hydraulic, please no don't do it etc replys or other comments from people who don't know ,as Itl only move off topic to something everyone thinks they know about . Thank you ,Nick.
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