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AndrewIC

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About AndrewIC

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  1. The BSS website does not always distinguish clearly between things which are mandated and required to pass a BSS examination, and things you should (in the opinion of the BSS and possibly others) do because they are good practice or just plain sensible. Insulated flues do not appear to be mandated in the Examination Checking Procedures document, there is no explicit mention of them at all. Likewise (for private boats at least) there is no BSS requirement for smoke alarms or carbon monoxide alarms.
  2. True. If we're talking true domestic style 3-way switching, it would be possible to wire up a DPDT relay as an intermediate switch, but then the problem of the relay being energised a lot of the time remains.
  3. When the daughter was very small (a long time ago, she's now an engineering student and nearly as tall as me), she reached the stage at which she could take herself to the loo on the boat in the night, but couldn't reach the switch on the bathroom ceiling light ). Rather than hack about a lot of woodwork to run wires to a low level switch, I used a remote controlled relay kit and fob from Velleman. The relay board is hidden in the roof space alongside the light, the fob is hidden in the existing false back of a cupboard, and I soldered a couple of thin wires to it for a bell push. The relay is only energised when the light is on, the receiver quiescent current with the light off is a few tens of milliamps. The fob battery has lasted for years. I think the exact kit has been discontinued now, but they have similar ones. The thing to watch with more modern digital stuff is that the receiver may paired to recognise only a specific fob (mine would work with any fob, or any number of fobs, of the same type), so you would need to check that it can be used with multiple fobs. The other thing to watch is quiescent current. The other way you might do this with the relay you suggest, is to run a second live to the light fitting, switched by the relay, assuming yu can get at the wiring route. That way the relay need onky be energised when the light is switched on via the fob, the rest of the time the existing switches work as normal.
  4. Poolstock Locks

    I've never understood how the locks became level? I could understand a lock sinking in its entirety and a new one being required above, but I've been through Dover and Plank Lane and they seems, well, level!
  5. Hurleston stoppage - Llangollen Canal

    There are what appear to be some reference points set into the lock walls, they look like hexagonal bolt heads in the brickwork but very flat.
  6. Interfering at locks

    You pride and joy in the lock, your rules. I'll offer to wind paddles, but only if you say so. My P&J in the lock, my rules. Offers of help usually accepted, but you check with me before you wind, please. Although I did offer a word of friendly advice this summer, about not leaving the windlass on the spindle, to the self-confessed novice crew of the boat which had been craned in about 200 yards away and who were doing their first lock ever. Seemed to be well received.
  7. Sinking on Leeds Liverpool

    And the paddle gear clearly has a Fenner gearbox on it; they don't drop anyway, they have to be wound down, many turns.
  8. stern gland nuts very loose

    Got the soggy tee shirt for that one. Put locknuts on to lock the studs into the fixed flange!
  9. Sinking on Leeds Liverpool

    Looks like the bow is caught on the gate, and perhaps the port side base on a protrusion in the lock wall, giving two points of support. Fenner gear box on the paddle so they will be very slow to close.
  10. Fitting an immersion heater

    Modern immersion heaters have two thermostats, wired in series with the element. One is adjustable and is set to the desired temperature and opens and closes as the temperature rises and falls. The other is for safety and is set to a higher temperature (and on mine had a sticker over the dial). This one opens if the temperature exceeds the safety limit, and does not reclose, it needs a manual reset. On mine, the safety stat needed tweaking upwards a bit, because after a good thrash the engine heated the water to a temperature which caused it to trip. This wasn't apparent until the next time the immersion was used and found inoperative!
  11. Voltage Sensitive Relay?

    Follow-up: Looks like it is probably the contactor gone bad. The relay coil is intermittently high resistance, 150 kOhms+ versus about 20 Ohms normally. Have bought a new contactor and it seems to work OK.
  12. How long to leave gas turned on for ?

    Olives, as usual. It's only the ridge (there's probably a technical term for it) in the middle that the pipe ends would butt up against that is removed. The olives are compressed between the pipe and flared end by the nuts, as usual.
  13. How long to leave gas turned on for ?

    Bulkhead fittings, if they have a ridge in the middle, are sometimes drilled out so the pipe is continuous through them, not jointed. I think you mean a manometer test point, with a screwed plug. A bubble tester is located in a gas locker, and does not require unscrewing.
  14. SMS controller thread ?

    Got mains power available? Search Amazon (other online tat bazaars are available) for "SMS remote socket". Even has a thermostat and temperature control. (I'd post a link but the iPad keeps opening the Amazon app)
  15. Muddlewhich

    When BW (as was) built or improved all the new service blocks some years back (Anderton, Nantwich, Calverly, Wheelock) it was rumoured that there would be something in Middlewich at the old town wharf site, where the "middle" water point is, which has been derelict for donkey's years. I don't know why it never happened.
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