routerfixer

Just spoken to Charles, he knows the engine. He said the stretched spring is to get a lower tick over and is not the issue. He is coming to service it next week. Thanks for the help everyone.

Ah yes - this is a Braidbar boat and the engine has Charles number on it, It did not occur to me that he would still be reachable on that number. Time for a phone call.

The pictures make it look much simpler than the exploded diagram suggests, should be easy enough to do when the spring gets here. Yes that is the part I ordered, I grabbed a copy of the manual from there too as mine are all rough photocopies and the pictures are all just solid black blurs. I'm at Norbury Junction on the Shropshire union. The previous owner had diesel bug twice and fitted a fuel polisher system to prevent it happening again, he blamed this for the stalling when first started. I also found a service invoice from 2015 with - Lube rack damper, fuel trigger, excess fuel plunger, element quadrants, etc.. as one of the items but nothing since.

Hi, I just purchased a narrow boat with a 2LW and it has a niggle or 2. When cold the engine will stall if I dont keep the revs high, a friends 2LW does not have this issue and can idle straight after starting, neither or us are engine mechanics so unsure of the cause. What I did notice yesterday was the spring on the back of the injector pump is stretched, I have ordered a replacement but the manual I have does not have any details on how to change it. I'm worried that if I do it wrong then bits will fly off. My friends 2LW also has an oiler flap on the front of the injector pump, I dont have this and apparently I should remove a screw on the front of the pump to fill with oil, question is which one?. I guess the other important thing is who should I use to do the servicing, I can handle oil changes and air filters but some of the other things in the manual are beyond my knowledge so looking for someone that covers Shropshire/Staffordshire. Engine: no.123076. Regards Steve

How much oil should there be in the Kelvin gearbox? Oh and what’s the best method of draining and refilling? It’s not exactly obvious to me.

Here are a couple of photos taken earlier today you can see the whole pump and the rotating shaft that drives it and the injector pump and governor

Yes it runs off a cam/crank shaft that also drives the injector pump and the regulator I had a look through the pictures I have and the only 1 of the pump is this one I will get a decent photo next time I get to the boat.

Does anyone know how the crosshead and the shaft are connected? it looked to me like it was 1 piece on Saturday maybe it is braised, there was a curved shoulder where the 2 parts meet. One possibility, could I fill the worn section with solder to reduce the thinning? even if it was a short term solution that would stop/reduce the leak while a more permanent fix is worked on. If the 2 parts can be separated then getting a new shaft made should be easy. Steve

Hi Everyone, Last year I had a small leak from my K2 water pump packing gland, with your help I added an extra turn of packing to try and stop the leak. Well it slowed it a little but never quite stopped it, this week I decided to strip the pump and have a proper look. Now I know the problem. In the picture where the stem arrow is pointing the shaft has been worn away, probably due to over tightening of the packing gland. It is grooved and about 1-2mm narrower, I have rebuilt it all with new packing but it still leaks. Might just be the new packing needs some time to settle and another turn might fix it (wishful thinking). Advice time, Is it possible someone out there will still have replacement parts? It was mentioned in my previous post by Markinaboat that he had to turn down the shaft and fit a sleeve, this might be the direction I am heading. What company should I be asking to do this type of work?

Hi fellow Kelvin lovers, I have a small leak from the water pump on my K2, have been told it probably just needs some new packing. Question is what size/type should I buy? The Parts List just says packing per foot. I don't want to take the pump apart until I have the right stuff to replace it with. Thanks Steve

Thanks everyone. Looks like I will be checking how well the current pipe is mounted this weekend. I have a feeling that it has no support at all.

Hi All During a recent trip I had the fuel pipe on my BMC 1.8 fail from the lift pump to the fuel filter. Picture of failed pipe The old pipe was a very brittle copper pipe it was replaced with a new copper pipe as thats what the engineer had with him. He put a loop in the pipe to reduce vibration. He also said that this pipe should be a steel pipe and not copper as the copper gets brittle over time and thats why it failed. Conversations with a few other boaters have mentioned replacing a steel pipe with copper, I have seen pictures where this pipe seems to be a braided pipe too. I have found no mention of a steel part for this. Calcut don't seem to do even the copper one. So my question is should this be steel or copper or even due to the vibration a flexible braided pipe? Steve