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Biggles

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Biggles last won the day on September 28 2014

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About Biggles

  • Birthday March 28

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  • Website URL
    http://www.boatbuildblog.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N.E. Essex & France
  • Occupation
    Gigalo
  • Boat Name
    Avalon
  • Boat Location
    France

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  1. Thanks Tony I will investigate there. I too have also in the past used wet and dry to sand them down. Just getting lazy nowadays
  2. Hello I am looking for some brushes for my 240v Alternator. The physical size is 9.98mm x 4.88mm the depth of the holder from base to flush at the top is 26.5mm but I have no idea of the original length of the brush. I need 1 pair only
  3. Good. Because your type of post is just another Twit wasting bandwidth with a pointless response. FYI my rusting pile of ....was last valued at 200k on a PX . I just have this small problem area. Yes thats right. If It went all the way through to the top there would be no problem. Its wheel steering not tiller.
  4. The water is getting past the seals and coming up the rudder stock then going into this void. I hear what you say but I am able to make a form around the hole at the top and create a "lid" so to speat which can be sealed.
  5. I'm fully aware of the situation, what I need is a mitigation solution or discussion, not a keyboard warrior filling their day by posting pointless and useless replies. DUH!
  6. I want to fill a void space on my boat. Its about the size of a large shoe box. The finish when set must be waterproof i.e. not permiable. I have considered liquid resin and silicone used for mould making. Both are exothermic reactions and cause me concern. I have also considered a grout or waterproof cement slurry, and finally I've considered some form of closed cell expanding foam. I've attached a picture of the void. It's impossible to get into to get much more of the rust flaking off as the access is only about the size of a tin of beans. This void is between the 2 fuel tanks with the rudder stock tube running through it. It's not leaking water in but does fill when I go hard astern so I conclude it's coming out of the rudder pole bearings which runs inside the round rudder tube in the photo. But that's another issue. The requirement now is to stop water entering this void and thus prevent further degradation as I don't want the end up with a perforated fuel tank. Any ideas welcome. Yes I know I need to stop the water ingress in the first place but that's going to be something I'll deal with next time I'm out of the water. Kevin
  7. I did that with the 2.2kw kettle, an 1800w Hoover and the microwave with 850w output. None of these made the inverter humm like the fridge does. But the same inverter and fridge for the whole 12 years life of the boat. Clearly only used in cruising season. No it's a frost free and doesn't have any.
  8. All the time now. Never used to and it cycling more than I recall previously. I.e. I never noticed it before but now its very obvious
  9. My boat fridge freezer is an A++ rated Libherre. About 12 season old and still cooling very well. My inverter is a 12/3000/120 Victron Multiplus so plenty of capacity to drive the fridge. I noticed the inverter was buzzing / humming quite loudly when the fridge kicks in. Nothing else on the boat 240v system causes this. Initially I thought it might be the inverter but now I'm thinking it's the fridge perhaps not behaving. I would value some knowledgeable thoughts on this issue. For example, would a fridge motor have a capacitor start? If so could this be an issue. Kevin
  10. Yes I get that, but a little expert comment would be valuable. Do you have anything from an expert POV to say?
  11. Hive Wisdom Sought. This is the circuit board from a Dometic RMD8555 3 way fridge. The fridge packed up and I got to hear of a company called Get It Fixed. I contacted them and they said they had experience of this board and on sending it in the diagnosed this chip needed replacing. I paid and a couple of weeks later its arrived back. I'm not an expert in electronics. This chip looks exactly the same as before and there seems to ne no evidence that the chip has been changed. I have seen these changed on YouTube and a heat gun is used to do the soldering, but there is no evidence either on the front or the back of the board to suggest its been changed. Before I remount the board I wanted opinion, as I suspect they have done nothing and will go on to say I have damaged the board when connecting it up. Thoughts please
  12. Hello everyone. Long story short my BT locker got down flooded whilst I was filling the water tank. Don't ask. Freak accident. The result was for about a day my BT motor was submerged. I have removed it and dried it and it and the contactors work so there's still life in it yet. but from a 110aH battery I can't really test it properly. I would like to have the motor serviced i.e. new bearings, brushes etc. but as soon as I mention to DC motor "specialists" is a BT motor the drawbridge comes up. Does anyone know where I might get it looked at?
  13. Love it Brian, now try hiring one in France. Can't even get a compressor and pot type system quoted until I can tell them exactly when and how long I want it for. Not even a simple day / week rate quote. They do things very differently out there sometimes.
  14. I did say in the OP it has to come off.
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