calon

I'd Check the motor capacitors , there's two under the plate on the top .if you need new ones message me il dig out the company that supplied mine, much much cheaper than mastervolt.

If it's like my old also set up in a similar age boat the switch on top of the thermostat operates the circulation pump but the boiler only fires up if the thermostat is above the room temp so even if you only want hot water no rads on you still need the thermostat to be above the room temp which in a hot day may be full point being is the alde boiler actually firing up .

I was told that the manufacturers kit came with a 5.5mm walled tube because its largest market was lumpy water were there's less silt and stuff so the thinner wall isn't as much of a problem

In my case it certainly apeared to be erosion around the Blade tip, the tube came as part of the kit suplied to the builder by Nobel's apparently only 5.5mm thick when new and in this kit with a bronze prop and there were no anodes in the tube. In the end we had the tube was cut out and replaced with a 9.5mm seamless tube, and we fitted two anodes inside the tube as well so hopefully good for a good while now.

Hi frank that sounds worrying, I've pm'd you hopefully it will land yourside (first time I've used that but it seems to work today)

They've had a look at it diagnosed the fault (power section and associated circuitry) and are going to repair the unit for what seems like very a reasonable price. Should be fixed within 10 working days and repairs come with a 12month garantee sadly Xmas means I'l be waiting a while I guess ? . although most of there works industrial stuff there happy to repair all sorts of leisure chargers inverters and associated electrical gubbins and there not a million miles from the canal so might be a useful place for folks needing repairs it's called sellweb ltd Tamworth.

Hi, Thanks for the recommendation markinaboat, and good idea boater Sam but there all tight and the sparking is in the other end of the unit inside the case , I've found a place in Tamworth called sellweb that say they repair mastervolt units so I'm going to drive it there in the morning , hoping they can get it sorted before they break up for Xmas not having a battery chargers a bit inconvenient I like the sound of my engine when I'm travelling but it's not so good when your trying to hear the TV ?.

hi folks Our mastervolt 2500/100 combi started sparking the geny was on charger was doing it's thing then I suddenly here a loud click, click,click investigated and there's sparks clearly coming from inside the combi below the switch on the front of the unit so I pulled the power. i left it a while turned it off and plugged the power back in was very surprised that it seemed to work inverter came on when I pressed it on the remote so i tried the charger and it came to life but as the amps rose it started sparking again and kept reseting , so as the charger and inverter do work but theres sparks and it keeps resetting itself I'm guessing there's a relay/switch thats arcing in there ? anyone any ideas is there anything else I can check or do and can anyone recomend anyone who repairs these units ( I'm in Staffordshire ) thanks guys

Grant Westfield shower wall panels are probably the best solution and they look classy though expensive at approx 140 a panel i use these on domestic installs and commercial as there very hard wearing but any local upvc trade supplier will also sell a much cheaper upvc wall panel probably " geo" panel eighter in 250mm wide tounge and groove or 800 wide these are easy to fit and cheap as chips from a proper upvc supplier

That's a great idea is give that a go thanks.

Hi just as an update in case it helps anyone else I've taken the alternator to two different large alternator suplyiers and remanufactures despite being confident on the phone one wouldn't even test it and they were the one that does slot of rcr's work. the other bench tested it and got results that back up our own findings it's putting out half power a Max of 40a instead of the rated 80a , sadly neighter of them could repair this type of unit or suggest a suitable alternative with the same wiring. As it is doing something and I've got a Genny I'l leave it till I get home for winter and send it to neihoff who said they will quote for repair. Il let you know what they say when they've quoted. The mastervolt panel is apparently not able to be recalibrated they did offer me 30% of a new one but at 370 plus VAT it is still a flipping expensive volt meter think I'l just get used to taking 0.5v off the reading as all the other functions still work fine.

Yes still has the launderette I didn't use it but definitely was in operation Thursday when I stopped in for a pint

Sorry predictive text "much" is micc . And yes battery posts. By way of cross reference I've tried moving the starter sensor to the domestic battery's and that still reads an accurate voltage on the domestics

Hi Tony here's were I'm at the micc - when there's nothing going out nothing going in if I have switched the isolater off just to be sure there's nothing muddying the waters the micc reads 0.5v higher than reality on the domestics but it's correct on the starter there's two sense wires on the shunt side as well as the much supply neg and one sense wire on positive post on starter and one on the positive post on domestics plus the power to the micc also on the same domestic positive post. I've checked those conections are tight and if it was loose somewhere wouldn't it read lower rather than higher? I've found a copy of the manual online but I can't see any calibration options or references in the troubleshooting section to the volts reading high. Is there anything else I can be checking ?

Sorry I wasn't clear then, by correct I ment accurate as in when charging with alternator they show on the micc as they are on the multimeter. great thanks I'l give them a ring

The volt senders are connected to battery it's not the charging voltage by coinsidense that shows as almost correct becauseof the loss on the splitcharge.

By the way with the 2 absolutely knackered batteries disconnected I charged the remaining 3 with Genny last night and this morning after very little use (fridge, TV for an couple of hours etc) the micc says there at 12.4v but as we've proven that to be 0.5v high that's a real voltage of 11.9 I guess there beond use anyway now ? . Does anyone know if I can recalibrate the micc at all because reading high is bloody annoying it reads accurately on the starter battery and reads the amps correctly.

Thanks for the help everyone, Anyone know anywhere capable of repairing it I'm on the shropy near brewood heading down staffs and Worcester (spose I could post it somewhere if needs be and use the genny/charger till it's back)

The engineer measured the output of the alternator with a clamp meter on the output it read 36 amps at it's highest and I then charged the battery's with Genny and charger and retested voltage the Max was 13.6 at the alternator . No solar on this boat I could use a relay but it's split three ways (start, bowthruster and domestic so I thought a straight swap for the sterling unit would be easyier, I'l have a look at the relay option as well. Tried remagnetising no diffence unsure how to bypass the regulator it only has pod and neg lead to alternator and four wires from within alternator case to the plug on the regulator is it just as simple as unplugging the regulator and seeing what happens then?

Perhaps another option is buying a new cheaper alternator now then I could look at getting this one sorted when I'm home in Sept and have a spare, but Is there a reasonably priced straight replacement for these ones does anyone know?

Yes I know what you mean about the charging I do have a Genny to use if I need in the short term to look after them but I do agree the alternator needs sorting problem is these alternators seem to be a bit unusual the only place that deals with them is closed till Monday the battery's were all tested individualy , with hydrometer and a loadtester (I think that's the name the tool that goes across pos and neg ) the knackered ones dropped like a stone to 3 /4 v and to be fair just looking in the cell on one it's all cloudy if that's any indication .

Hi folks sorry I've not updated this for a while something came up. Anyway the saga continues sorry it's a bit epic but here goes having exhausted my testing knowledge I've given in and got a local yard to help here's what we've found , there's two completely knackered battery's and the other three arnt great the reason I had been misled about battery levels by the mastervolt micc panel the starter battery reads volts accurately but domestics reads half a volt high if any one has any idea how that can happen I'm all ears! Without the knackered battery's in the alternator puts out 13.6v and up to 35a so better but still not what I would have expected from a 80a unit remembering the flywheel is 24inch the pullys 3inch . The splitcharge diode looses 0.8v so that won't help at all if this alternator only outputing 13.6v the battery's are only seeing 12.8v it's not got alot to hammer those amps home. Its looking like I've no real option but to splash out on new battery's and probably makes sense to change the splitcharge diodes for a sterling 0volt splitter at least the alternator stands a chance of charging a bit then but is there any way an alternatorcan have these symptoms basically working but at about half power? Dodgey regulator maybe? There apears to be one dealer for nichoff in the UK so we will ring them Mon see if they have any ideas.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll check the charging paths as Tony suggests in the morning if I do need to get the alternator repaired can anyone recommend anyone that could do it I'm at shebdon embankment heading towards norbury junction at the moment then planning on going down the staffs and worcester

OK I tried re-energizeing the magnetic field but that's not fixed it unfortunately this morning with the engine in neutral at cruising speed the meter climbed to 12.9v and 22amps I assume from what I've read I should be seeing the regulators lower voltage of 13.8v and a higher ampage to start ?

thanks it does sound like there's a problem with mine then I will try the reestablishing the magnetic field as per old goats link tomorrow then ( ived had the genny/ charger going for a bit now so the battery's will be fairly charged and at a high voltage anyway now) and hope for the best.