Hi cbport
Lets get back to basics on this engine. The problem is an internal fuel leak that is causing the oil level to rise. The fuel lift pump is an external pump fitted outside of the engine casing. So even if you had one and it was leaking it would not drip internally and increase the sump oil level. You say in your opening statement that 'directly into the front of the engine behind the side plate covering the injectors'. This plate does not cover the injectors, these are in fact the injector pumps (one for each cylinder) behind this plate. On top of these two injector pumps are pipes that go to the top of the cylinder head where the actual injectors are housed. To access the injectors remove the two rectangular covers on top of the engine by removing the two nuts on each cover. The covers normally have the name Lister cast into them. I hope this helps.
Hi Ian
The governor is there to stop the engine increasing its rpm above a pre determined setting. A broken spring should not effect the engines tick over. Will the engine increase rpm using the throttle? If so it may just need the tick over speed setting.
Regards
Les
There is a link to on line manuals in the SR2 smoking thread.
These symptoms do sound very much like fuel in the oil. Change the oil ASAP and re test. If it is a slight leak, it can take many hours to affect the throttle response. It will restart, normally after the problem cuts out the engine. The two normal places to look for a leak are the internal fuel lines and the lift pump.
The gearbox looks like it is cable operated.
I can not see the alternator, and the front looks different from the ones I have seen. Is that an oil dipstick at the front left of the engine?
Hi Leo1973
I have a Lister SR2.I fitted a filter/water seperator before the engine, directly onto the fuel tank. Using this method, the modern filter will collect anything from the tank before it enters the small filter fitted on to the engine.
Even if the old one is leaking it will tell you if the problem is the pump.
The tappet is the small metal rod that fits in the engine block between the lift pump and the camshaft. You can see it when the pump is removed. This is what makes the lift pump work. If it was missed out when the new pump was fitted, the pump can not function.
That has given me an idea. The fuel tank is just high enough to give some gravity feed, what if the new lift pump is in fact faulty. That may just be enough for fuel to feed the engine under no load but struggle with a new full size prop. Have you tried the old pump back on? This may sound silly but did you make sure the pump tappet (small rod) was in place before the new pump was fitted. I know I have been caught out with dafter things before now.
My pleasure.
The project included stripping, bead blasting and painting all external suffices. All wear surfaces were checked, but not a single surface had worn beyond manufacturers tolerances.
Just to throw another item into the pot. The engine has has a new SR2 lifter pump fitted. Are the pumps the same for all the engine combinations that are being listed as the possible engine in the boat?
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