jonathanA

Me neither, but Alan MacNaughton is the name I've heard taking over from Dan... I need to book in for a blacking so no doubt that will shed some light on things..

Name and shame @haggis!!

Ive also heard they have bought Scarisbrick marina but haven't seen anything to confirm if Collingwood are the new owners.

Don't laugh.... just an off The wall thought given the age of this carb.... Is the float metal ? Does it have a pin hole leak in it so maybe its filling with petrol slightly. Had that happen to an old Honda genny and it took me ages to realise as when ever it spewed petrol out and spluttered to a stop it languished in the workshop waiting for a roundtuit. So by the time I stripped the carb everything was dry. If the float is metal just try shaking it and see if it rattles or put in a bowl of water and look for bubbles. Apologies if this is nonsense and/or not relevant to your situation.

Indeed and the better waste tank senders have a cage round them to prevent cling ons interfering with the "float"

So about 2 1/4 miles an hour, ignoring locks and swing bridges. I'm finding the suggestion ( by others) of 10 mph a bit of a stretch. Wasn't the horse walked by someone on the tow path ? so at best something like 4 mph being a fast walking pace. 54 hours for the 127 and a bit miles of the l&l seems a bit more believable to me. ETA: adding in 91 locks on the l&l that's about 4 lock miles an hour.

I particularly like the low fuel lamp too. It looks like the same sort of sender that could be used in a waste water tank.

Having seen a combi inverter smoking, but not actually on fire although maybe heading that way.... I would advocate an isolator in an accessible position. Being able to isolate just the inverter/combi whilst leaving the 12v* domestics on is in my opinion a good thing. Problem with using a mega fuse (as an isolator) is that you need to get the spanners out and in a panic that might not be too easy/quick. * or 24v for the pedants.

Harsh but fair....

My last defender was a 1989 3.5 v8 petrol usual was 15mpg occasionally 16.... mind you it did 15 with or without a trailer , roof rack and crusing at 85 mph ... getting to 85 was quite quick for the size of vehicle getting to zero from 85 more nerve wracking...

Yes I was thinking about that as i typed. Wasn't sure if it was from next year.... Thanks @biscuits. I knew that!! Must be an age thing lol

Might be worth looking at pennine cruisers of skipton. There boats typically have solid fuel stoves for winter use so more akin to leisure use boats.

Solar cable is double insulated I think and has a dc rating of something like 1500v. If I had a serial panels, where the voltage could easily be 100v or more, personally I would sheath the solar cable in the boat or connect the final solar tails to some sheathed ho7 type 2 core 4/6mm cable to route to the controller.

Just to pick up on this. IIRC the bss or iso standards say 12v and 240v wiring should be in separate conduits. It's generally accepted that mains cable with an outer sheath (e.g blue "artic" ) or in this case T&E. Meets that requirement. Or words to that effect...so 12v singles with the T&E in the same trunking is fine. A mix of 12v and 240v singles in the same conduit or trunking would not. On a related but separate issue. T&E is not recommended for boat, but is not a BSS fail. The thinking being that the solid cores will break due to vibration so flexible cable should be used.

I'm just giving facts based on real life experience not marketing bullshit from webastard. Feel free to put them right ! My consultancy rates are reasonable if they want my advice.

Nope its a cheapo unit nothing fancy. Your numbers are just wrong. I know you said rough .....

Gosh one pessimistically over the top post Saying a 63A supply required and another who thinks 1/3 of 20A IS 2A.... I know the op doesn't want a mobile unit, but for context my 14000 btu mobile air con unit runs more than happily of a standard 13a plug top. I think its running draw is in the order of 5A.

That was my own samimarine bog and if I could have found who put the prune stone down then they would have been planted 😀... we never did work out how it got there.... I can only think it must have been lurking in the pipework for awhile before becoming stuck on the bend and causing an obstruction...

To be fair, this is something I feel quite strongly about so apologies for going on about it. My point is that these called safety covers are nothing of the sort. The standard 13a socket is far safer without them. Simple as! and I'm sorry anyone who thinks otherwise doesn't understand the issue. Your continued argument about earth pins breaking is irrelevant. (A "safety cover" couldn't be used in a socket with a stuck broken earth pin ) To your point about regulators and the ever creeping nanny state, (to which I 100% agree BTW) none of the links supplied in this thread are from the regulators or any similar vested interest. Indeed the use of plastic safety covers is not illegal or against any regulation. Although there are now a large number of organisations ADVISING against their use. Sadly it will be a very long time before RCDs or RCBO are fitted to every domestic property. How many are still using rewireable fuses in their consumer units/DBs ?

Nice work anyway. Pleasure to look at. Thanks for sharing.

I've had to get intimately acquainted with several macerator bogs and it's never toilet paper that has caused problems. Ladies sanitary items (make a right mess) , wet wipes (indestructible) and the latest one was some sort of prune or cherry stone. In my experience the number one problem for them not flushing is a full tank followed by a blocked breather. The prune stone was stuck in a bend in the outlet pipe and was a swine to shift needing a combination of small cable pulling rods and a wet and dry vac....

Ive certainly had it happen on double insulated wall wart type adapters where the earth pin is all plastic. Whether they meet any recognised standard is debatable probably "China Export" CE marked... Anyway that's not really the same as these plastic covers that are missold as safety devices when the overwhelming evidence is that they do not improve safety. Your broken pin example would not be helped or avoided by use of a safety cover would it?

I agree that suggesting that these covers pose a fire risk is at least bordering on scaremongering if not actual scaremongering. I can't see how they can pose any fire risk. However there is no doubt they're not needed and they do not increase the safety of the already good 13A socket. They do increase the risk of electrocution either from the earth pin breaking off or according to Which, many can be inserted upside down resulting in the shutters being open. Here is the link to the which article https://www.which.co.uk/news/article/throw-away-your-dangerous-plug-protectors-right-now-aRuwt5l3SxKQ The department of health has issued a warning about them https://www.foundationyears.org.uk/2016/10/dfe-note-on-the-use-of-electrical-plug-socket-coversinserts-in-early-years-provision-in-England/ Neither of these links explain how these covers pose a fire risk! Although Which makes that assertion. There is a suggestion that some of the covers have oversize pins, in which case I could see that they MAY damage the contacts in the socket leading to a potential high resistance connection that could lead to overheating when something elsebis plugged in especially if that was a high power appliance like a kettle or 3kw heater.

Fair enough. Although it's something of a moot point as either way it doesn't make much sense!

I'm slightly confused by the pipework in your picture. You say hot in on left, cold in at bottom and mixed out on right? Yet there appears to be a connection between hot in and cold in with a stop tap in between (blue top). Is this closed ? (It looks like it to be fair) I guess if it's closed it doesn't matter just cant work out why it's there....