jonathanA

Me neither, but Alan MacNaughton is the name I've heard taking over from Dan... I need to book in for a blacking so no doubt that will shed some light on things..

Name and shame @haggis!!

Ive also heard they have bought Scarisbrick marina but haven't seen anything to confirm if Collingwood are the new owners.

Don't laugh.... just an off The wall thought given the age of this carb.... Is the float metal ? Does it have a pin hole leak in it so maybe its filling with petrol slightly. Had that happen to an old Honda genny and it took me ages to realise as when ever it spewed petrol out and spluttered to a stop it languished in the workshop waiting for a roundtuit. So by the time I stripped the carb everything was dry. If the float is metal just try shaking it and see if it rattles or put in a bowl of water and look for bubbles. Apologies if this is nonsense and/or not relevant to your situation.

Indeed and the better waste tank senders have a cage round them to prevent cling ons interfering with the "float"

So about 2 1/4 miles an hour, ignoring locks and swing bridges. I'm finding the suggestion ( by others) of 10 mph a bit of a stretch. Wasn't the horse walked by someone on the tow path ? so at best something like 4 mph being a fast walking pace. 54 hours for the 127 and a bit miles of the l&l seems a bit more believable to me. ETA: adding in 91 locks on the l&l that's about 4 lock miles an hour.

I particularly like the low fuel lamp too. It looks like the same sort of sender that could be used in a waste water tank.

Having seen a combi inverter smoking, but not actually on fire although maybe heading that way.... I would advocate an isolator in an accessible position. Being able to isolate just the inverter/combi whilst leaving the 12v* domestics on is in my opinion a good thing. Problem with using a mega fuse (as an isolator) is that you need to get the spanners out and in a panic that might not be too easy/quick. * or 24v for the pedants.

Harsh but fair....

My last defender was a 1989 3.5 v8 petrol usual was 15mpg occasionally 16.... mind you it did 15 with or without a trailer , roof rack and crusing at 85 mph ... getting to 85 was quite quick for the size of vehicle getting to zero from 85 more nerve wracking...

Yes I was thinking about that as i typed. Wasn't sure if it was from next year.... Thanks @biscuits. I knew that!! Must be an age thing lol

Might be worth looking at pennine cruisers of skipton. There boats typically have solid fuel stoves for winter use so more akin to leisure use boats.

Solar cable is double insulated I think and has a dc rating of something like 1500v. If I had a serial panels, where the voltage could easily be 100v or more, personally I would sheath the solar cable in the boat or connect the final solar tails to some sheathed ho7 type 2 core 4/6mm cable to route to the controller.

Just to pick up on this. IIRC the bss or iso standards say 12v and 240v wiring should be in separate conduits. It's generally accepted that mains cable with an outer sheath (e.g blue "artic" ) or in this case T&E. Meets that requirement. Or words to that effect...so 12v singles with the T&E in the same trunking is fine. A mix of 12v and 240v singles in the same conduit or trunking would not. On a related but separate issue. T&E is not recommended for boat, but is not a BSS fail. The thinking being that the solid cores will break due to vibration so flexible cable should be used.

I'm just giving facts based on real life experience not marketing bullshit from webastard. Feel free to put them right ! My consultancy rates are reasonable if they want my advice.