Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

OldGoat

Member
  • Content count

    3,587
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

OldGoat last won the day on March 20 2016

OldGoat had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

142 Good

3 Followers

About OldGoat

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Me- West Sussex, boat - Hurley on Thames

Previous Fields

  • Boat Location
    Hurley on Thames

Recent Profile Visitors

5,928 profile views
  1. Seeking opinions on porthole verses rectangle windows

    Nobody has mentioned ventilation. Standard portholes give no ventilation Those with drop back vents are much more expensive and give little A mix of porholes and 'bus' windows give a better solution while making the boat look more like a ---- boat When it's tipping it down with rain you need a system that ventilates and excludes water...
  2. Not seen for a while

    And this one's a Springer - whereas t'other is (something like) a Dartline with a timber or glass fibre top?
  3. Hopefully 'opposite' doesn't imply exactly opposite. Working the cooker with a hot stove dead opposite could be quite unpleasant, especially when using the oven. Mine a re next to each other and loading the oven with a large joint / chicken / turkey often results in a toasted bum....
  4. Question related to buying a narrow boat

    Following on Alan's comments above - it's worth finding a 'well respected surveyor' to do a survey AND be present when he carries it out. You'll learn a lot! Finding such a person can be a challenge if you don't know where to start... You could ask on here - but you'll need to give an approximate location. It makes sense to contact likely contacts by 'phone to see if there's a "meeting of minds" Add: Offers to help from forum members are also invaluable......
  5. I think the general consensus is that the newer (UK) formulation of Odorlos is not very effective. I bought two large bottles of it and don't use it any more. Blue is AFAIK bleach based and works by smothering everything, killing all the bacteria including those that cause smells. Bio washes and Oxy treatments generate oxygen and encourage the non-smelly bacteria to work harder and breakdown the solids. IMHO all treatments are helped by some sort of agitation to keep any solids 'on the move'. Why some folks tanks smell and others don't defeats me.
  6. You've mentioned 'cheaper' twice recently. Products like Odorlos do have what looks like a high price tag, but the recommended dosage makes a container last quite a long time. Supermarket Bio washes are about £4 per kilo - is that expensive in your book. I ask because I'm wondering whether folks are overdosing their tanks? I've been using a wash's measure per tankful. Our tanks are about 80l each. I've just found t6he Oxy 'bleach' powder that was recommended on a thread here, it is:- Tesco Oxy Powder Colours. Priced at £3 per kilo. In the store it's hidden in the bleaches section rather than the washing machine section.
  7. engine buzzer

    May seem daft - but on my engine(s) the buzzer stayed on until I revved the engine (a bit of 'oomph' is needed to get the alternator to start charging).
  8. We've tried 'everything' over the years but NEVER Blue as it's the invention of the Devil and really designed only for recycling porta potti types- Original Odorlos - good results Brewers Yeast - partial results Above with bubbling fresh air through the flush pipe (very smelly). On our patch most pump out units have high pressure hoses which we attach to our own sprinkler pipe (to avoid complaints) and give a good blasting through the open pan - results - good; extend the time between pumpouts Industrual Bio - excellent - as mentioned earlier. A previous thread on here recommended "OxyGen" granules available from Tesco. Will try this when the stock of the previous item runs out. I think it's important to have an element of mechanical agitation to break up any mass of solids - so I have a pointed-stick for that purpose. Both the rubber seals and balls are expensive, so it's important to keep them clean with a round loo brush and perhaps leave over might with a
  9. The seals tend to get calcified - but can be cleaned, but you have to remove them first. We have used Odorlos for years, but it has become less effective since the (dumbed down) the specification. Following recommendations on here we have tried an industrial type washing cleaner (it came in a used 1300l container...) and it has solved the problem! For best results you do have to resort to a power flush when rinsing out the tank - to loosen any solids.
  10. Thoughts on this tug

    What's not to like a Les Bob Allen hull with a National RN engine 24v electrics and more. Obviously well planned (mechanics wise), should satisfy the mix of trad and current requirements that folks have on current threads.... ? Slight lean to Port to add a bit of character.
  11. I thought that was an amusing post contrasting a mass market car of yesteryear with budget boats of today.... Made I larf anyway and no disprec' to a certain make of narrowboat
  12. I stand corrected, but who built your widebeam? Some top end boats do have Vetus.... Whichever - in this case it's a matter of hearsay, unless there's a written specification for that particular boat.
  13. I think everyone has been beating around the bush in an attempt to be helpful (, why not), however, your problems are mainly ones of:- "snagging" - engine adjustments and so on User unfamiliarity - steering Wrong description - Annex ? CB number? - insurance details Engine type " misunderstanding" I'm trying to be a disinterested party and mainly want to save you more frustrations and probably lots of money as well. It's likely none of the above are 'actionable' at Law, the remedy being by warranty claim (item 1). Item 2 is down to you - perhaps a training course will show you what you can and can't do in a widebeam - your cost Item 3 is easily fixed by contacting the insurance company in the first place, who could even be persuaded to contact the vendor for the correct details Item 4 - A Vetus 65 is quite an unusual engine to be fitted in an inland waterway boat, although I've heard of such a specification where a travel power or special hydraulic packs were fitted - so there's an element of doubt... Vetus' are very expensive to fix when they go wrong, so it may be beneficial for you not to have one... Your remedies then are of - Warranty function Documentary adjustment Training You might / will get a more satisfactory and cost effective solution if you engage the services of one of well respected Inland waterways boat engineers (not mechanic) who is known to the vendor and take it from there. The above is not what you want to hear - but hopefully - save a lot of grief in the long term.
  14. Day time Tv

    I always wonder why folks don't do a certain amount of time shifting by building up a supply of recorded programs? Get a Youview recorder from ebay and save those programs that you might want to watch later - especially if they clash with what you re currently watching.. Yes - norra lot of use if you don't have a stock of progs when you get stricken with the ague - but plan ahead. Our reserve helped a lot when stricken with athe recent attack of Athletics....... (or footer at the weekend)
  15. Crocodile Clip 600w Inverter

    Sadly it's the way of the world. Those who would sell equipment properly configured do and will quickly go out of business... A chunky croc-clip will work short term and in the open air (beware sparks) - A commercial high power battery charger works OK in a well ventilated workshop environment, but I'd be very wary in the depths of a normal narrowboat environment. Replace the croc clips with lugs and terminals and that problem goes away / gets reduced.
×