blackrose

Yes I wouldn't want it a fixed length. Better to have it height adjustable. I just use a round turn and two half hitches on mine but there's probably a better knot that's easier to undo.

If you have access to a mains water supply you could test the doorframe by spraying it with a hose. Hold the end of the hose up so that the water arcs up and comes down like rain rather than spraying it directly. Or you could use a garden watering can.

Utter claptrap. I don't know about No Corrode as I don't know about it and hadn't mentioned it, but Vasaline will insulate terminals . Vaseline is mostly petroleum jelly (petrolatum) mixed with some minerals, micro-crystalline wax, and possibly a fragrance - all of which are also non-conductive. Pure petrolatum is an excellent electrical insulator. And, Vaseline (petrolatum with other “impurities”) is a very good insulator. So it's pretty obvious that even a small amount will increase electrical resistance. By the same token that doesn't make you correct either Tony. I've never dressed terminals and never had a problem. I simply make sure they're clean. Anyway tell me, what exactly is the advantage of dressing the terminals before assembly as you recommend, over dressing the assembled joint as I described? If the assembled joint is properly dressed nothing will get between the mating faces. Your method can only be disadvantageous as far as I can see

Vaseline non-conductive and a good electrical insulator. If you apply it to the terminal surfaces and then refit, most of the vasaline will be squeezed out but there will still be a thin film between the surfaces increasing resistance, which kind of defeats the object of cleaning them in the first place. If you clean the terminals, refit and then apply the vaseline to the assembly to prevent long term corrosion that's better, but if you take it apart again you must make sure that you thoroughly clean all the vasaline off before refitting because the stuff gets everywhere. Personally I don't bother dressing battery terminals because I think it's more trouble than it's worth.

I didn't bother. The porthole frames have a set of grooves on the back of the flange. You can't squeeze it all out. But I wouldn't let it go off before tightening the screws anyway because once you crack the sealant the screws may not be sealed.

Yes I guess I could have used self adhesive neoprene but that still doesn't get around the issue of the seal width. With only 6mm I'd rather use sealant. The original neoprene tape failed, probably a couple of years ago but I just didn't realise and put it down to condensation. While it lasted 15 years, the stuff I removed was flat as a pancake and I'm amazed it lasted as long as it did. Also what do people who use neoprene use to seal the screws? Mastic? I'm happy with the sealant anyway so that's what I'm doing.

Yes polyester wool made from recycled PET bottles. It doesn't have quite as good insulation properties as glass rockwool but it's much easier to use, non-itchy, etc, and there was nothing there before. No I don't want to use tape. As I said, there's really not enough seal width to use neoprene tape. At the top it was only about 6mm wide. I think trying to keep it in place while fitting the window would be much more hassle. I know someone's going to suggest sticking the tape on first with mastic, but if I'm using mastic I'm using mastic. Thanks. Yes I think they look better too.

Yes, I'll just drill some 12mm holes about 15mm deep. The old screw holes are in the wood to use as guides for positioning.

A side hatch is more likely to have steps below compared to side doors without a top hopper.

Hardwood. Whether solid oak is decent or not I don't know. Anyway after nearly 20 years it was rotting where the condensation and then water leak had got to it. __________________ I've got the first window back in using stainless A4 screws, flange nuts and a few washers where the holes in the cabin side were right on the edge of the window aperture and not a full hole. Sealed with Bostik Simson MSR adhesive/sealant. I didn't realise until I took the window out that it was originally sealed with neoprene tape, which had obviously failed. I also stuffed some PET insulation into the square around the porthole because there was nothing there before. Because the aperture was cut slightly oversized and there's not a lot of width to the seal I think the sealant is the best method for me. I was able to screw it up tight by myself from the inside with a small socket on a straight handle and an Allen key on the outside with one arm out the top hopper (which I'd removed). The main challenge was cleaning up the sealant afterwards. It's messy stuff! https://www.thegluepeople.co.uk/mspolymers-hybrids-c-6_11/bostik-msr-construction-adhesive-290ml-p-389.html Just got to put the wooden trim back in and then 13 more to do! 🫤

I'm always there - occasionally I learn something. Last year I paid £170 so I'm going to try to get maximum value out of it. My most recent examiner was happy for me to follow him around. I do my best not to ask too many questions or get in the way, but if an examiner found my presence a distraction that's his problem - it's my boat and my home he's inspecting and I'm paying his wages. Also, last time the inspector told me that the flexible fuel line feeding the Webasto I'd installed wasn't compliant, but I assured him it was and I found the ISO number on the back of the hose which I read out to him. (Yes I should have installed it with the number facing forward so it could be easily seen). He then changed his mind and said he'd never seen a proper fuel hose that thin. So sometimes it is worth being there so you can show an inspector a new installation or show a new inspector how to access something.

Isn't it called freedom of expression? If CRT didn't allow them to have a stand someone else would be complaining about censorship, so CRT can't really win. Anyway why does it bother you so much? If NBTA can publish a coherent leaflet which makes a sound argument then they might gain some support, but if as you obviously believe their aims are nonsense, then people will be able to see that and dismiss them as an organisation. So having a stand and publicising their aims could just as easily work against them if those aims really are unreasonable.

They don't wear out but sometimes people leave them outside and they get nicked or roll off a deck into the water.

Yes I'm assuming tiller tube means the brass tube extending from the wooden tiller handle, not the rudder stock tube.