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Nice to read such a non-judgemental post...

Nick certainly can be a bit of a monster in some of his posts but you really should read the forum before attacking him, he already has a caravan! and an aeroplane, and is certainly not a "Tim and Pru" newcomer. If you seriously want to insult him then Hudsons and Butlers is the accepted approach. ................Dave

If you exchange the stoves back panel for a another 1430 front panel and doors then make the hole in the wall a square one and shove the stove halfway through it, you will have the same stove in both rooms and be able to operate it from both sides too.

Presumably we can expect to wait another 3 weeks for the repost. Some people are very slow at typing. I’ve put a note in my diary (you know, the one with a signed photo of Tim and Pru on the cover).

Same batteries as mine and they are four and a half years old now. The word dual does not put me off at this price point. Think about truck with sleeper cabs and the domestic stuff the drivers use. I feel aat least some on here make far to much of the advantages of Trojan like batteries in typical use. I will but the same again next time.

You are missing something fundamental. It takes bloody ages to put the last few 'amps' into any battery - even lithium ones. It's like filling a canal lock. It's really quick to fill the bottom 75% because the water levels are so different. You wait ages for the last inch to fill because the water levels are nearly the same. It is exactly the same with batteries, pushing the last 10% into them gets hard because your alternator is banging out nearly the same voltage as the batteries, with the difference getting smaller all the time Richard

I can only appologise for bringing up the whole sorry subject. It seems my inability to accept the dreadfully inadequate performance of the leisure batteries is matched only by... their dreadful performance. I simply wasn't aware that they needed to charge to 100% every single time. As many other comments on the forum indicate that lots of people don't do that and seem to manage, I started trying to figure if something else was going on. And - relying on the smartgauge that 100% meant I could stop charging That's going in the bin. After my next experiment with the desulfator (should at least be interesting) I intend to go lithium. I can't understand why anyone would spend good money on lead acid - 440a/h that you can only use 180a/h of (40%) might as well have 1x200ah lithium and be able to use it. Also - the massive amount of time energy and cost trying to pump the last few amps into the lead acids, I'm sure I'd save back on diesel and engine wear in no time at all. Just look at keeping up's regime - and still not sufficient! He could save time by running the engine all the while he's actually using the electric and not bothering with any batteries. (I'm half joking). I just wish I'd specified a lithium from new - instead of the four vetus things that cost nearly as much. I think that one of the problems in boat world is similar to what you find in the trades sometimes as in "it's always been done this way so why change?" But thank you to everyone who's offered advice.

Austerity and shrinkflation mean they only produce saucers now . . .

I don't think so, as long as the bulkhead and hole are fire proofed. As a final embellishment for the hole two round foil pie dishes with the bottoms cut out, one stuck on each side with silicone. An Aldi Quiche Lorraine foil dish should do the job nicely. I'd go and buy one first, eat it and then measure it so that the hole can be cut to suit. ETA You would need to buy two pies I'm afraid. They do work. My stove flue has one around it up on the ceiling, I've also fitted a couple to other peoples flue pipes.

sorry its been a while. here is my logburner we completed today. kitchen in roughly apart from maybe moving the island to the other side better walk way then. and worktops...

When at first you don't succeed, try, try, try again.

Quite scary - i have seen mention before but found this useful >> https://www.webmd.boots.com/a-to-z-guides/drowning

I know, it includes various types of alternator, generator (suitcase, built in, frame, whispergen CHP etc, solar). I decided that whilst I have theoretical knowledge of all these, and practical knowledge of commercial types (even Stirling engined CHP), my practical knowledge of the types by boaters is sadly lacking, so best leave the input to others with more practical experience than me.

^^^^^^^ This....... and of course....... this......... ........except they are not rivets, of course! (That's given me my daily fix - thanks!).

Well if it’s the full half hour with 3 weeks between each exchange, that should take us well into the next century. Jolly exciting!

Do you reckon he wants the five minute argument, or the full half hour?

Each bank gets Fully charged al least once a week, the "Idle" bank is charged until each battery of the three is receiving 2 WATTS,(at 15.3 Volts)Then Charging is considered as completed.

it's great in cold weather and extends engine service life considerably.

The current set is a bank of 4 Exide 115 Ah Dual leisure batteries https://www.tayna.co.uk/Exide-ER550-DUAL-Leisure-Battery-Porta-Power-PP115-P7641.html ... would Exide count as a "decent" brand? The word Dual puts me off - it almost certainly means they are just re-badged starter batteries. The top looks like it may be removable but it has resisted all my efforts so far. I found during the summer that in absorption mode they followed the typical "rule of one-third" in that every hour the current reduced to one-third of tis previous value (plus a bit for tail current) and the amp-hour deficit according to the BM2 also reduced to one-third of its earlier value. Thus after taking my usual load of 80-90 Ah, the charging current was roughly: After 1 hour, 30 Amps After 2 hours, 11 Amps After 3 hours, 5 Amps After 4 hours, 3 Amps After 5 hours, 2.6 Amps After 6 hours, 2.5 Amps After 7 hours, 2.5 Amps After 8 hours, 2.5 Amps To me this suggests that they are nearly charged after 4 hours, and that after 5-6 hours it merely holds the "status quo" I can limit the current when equalising, as my bench PSU is a variable-voltage variable-current supply. But I rarely find that the current rises far above the 2.5A figure, after the initial burst of enthusiasm is over. During the summer we do travel a lot, so roughly two-thirds of the hours I quoted in my regime are a fortunate by-product of cruising.. But the other third (ie about 300 hours this year) represent a colossal waste of diesel! At the moment plans A B and C all look equally attractive (or unattractive) to me.

What might help is a standard survey/set of questions for those seeking help with failing batts. Maybe a short version plus something more comprehensive. Otherwise information comes out in dribs and drabs and it can all turn into an almighty jumble of opinions and ideas.

I do exactly the same ,it means the "Idle Bank" gets fully charged over a 24 hour period, the only way it can be done off grid.

Yeah, I recently bought a carpet cleaner. It does a rubbish job of cleaning the windows so I’m throwing it in the bin...

^^^^^^^^^ eeeeeek! Tin hat, deck chair, beer, popcorn

There used to be a lot of plates made in Staffordshire

If you mean, how do I get the charge voltage to 16.5v , I have a bench power supply which I can run from the inverter powered by 2 of the batteries to equalise the other 2. Then swap them over. But I am wary of doing that with my existing bank of sealed batteries.

Not a helpful comment. That will be no help at all to the OP. CRT don't send out emails warning about the planned closures. The emails only tell us about the emergency, unplanned and otherwise unannounced stoppages.

boisdevie you do that. email crt and see what they have to say thats what i would do ...if they say yes its ok to stay there till the jobs done and you dont mind staying there 5/6 weeks.nothing more to say about it ...if they say no you can not ...then thats it you can not simple ,and please dont worry what other boaters think or say ...like you said you are new to this boating thing ...good luck any way

Is is true, and a steel bodied stove rather than a trecherous cast iron one is better

No in short. Its a tad too small. My mate had one on his barge which is only 50 x 11 and an engine room out of that at the arse end and whilst it coped he had to thrash it at times, he used it one winter but now has a masport fatso. I had a masport fatso on my 50 foot widebeam they are awesome and can kick out 20kw it does depend on how warm you like ti of course. We rarely like to see less than 23on the thermometer at present its 26 with t shirt on. If you like to freeze like many in houses seem to at about 20 then it may well do the job.

Lumpy water boats seem to be complying by having a 'pocket' built into the hull, pull off the cap and inside is a 'rope' ladder that can be pulled out and then drops down. Something like this can be an 'after fit' and at £46 is an inexpensive way of anyone doing a self-fit out being able to comply with the RCD. Even just as an additional safety feature on your boat. Who has tried to climb back into a boat with wet winter clothing on ? (it is not easy, even in just 3 foot of water in a muddy ditch) Helps any crewmember get back on board easily without external help. Suitable for current use (bathing) or in case of Man Over Board. Consists of 3 polypropylene steps and 1 st. steel handle assembled by a highly resistant line, (bright yellow Ø 3 mm polyester). Ladder is stored in a polyamide tube with a grey polypropylene cap, for optimum protection and waterproofness. The Man Over Board removes the cap, pulls the ladder down, and climbs onboard. • Light • Very easy flush mount (like a thru-hull fitting). • Transom or skirt mount (sail and power boats), just above waterline.