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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/08/17 in all areas

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. I don't very often read this forum anymore, partly as so busy and partly because I find some people's attitudes to others dire. I can't face reading all of the horrible things some of you are saying so sorry if repeating what others have said. We love Burton on trent. It's a very handy mooring for the nearby lidl and the railway station. It just isn't a destination for restaurants or even meals in pubs. It's a fair walk into town but if you take the trouble you'll be rewarded by simply amazing victorian buildings. The brewery owners had some fine houses right in the town centre. If you venture a bit further you'll reach the trent. It just isn't a tourist destination or a twee village like Alrewas. It's just a town where people live and work and we love it.
    2 points
  3. It's not just the same as, it's actually the same one. They're plastic and they sell them in garden centres and naughty folk tour the canals propping them on logs on the far bank. (I made that up)
    1 point
  4. Can we please see examples of any art produced by those posters taking the mick?
    1 point
  5. Good news, I don't need to move after all. I got offered two different jobs today and took the best one which is field-based so there's no need to find a new mooring or get another crane out. I'll actually be able to work from the boat when I need to as well! Thanks for everyone's input anyway.
    1 point
  6. Snapped near Parbold on the L+L.
    1 point
  7. Are we talking about Jo here? Richard
    1 point
  8. You aren't very good at this opposing view thing are you. They've been breeding on the Paddington Arm.and near Uxbridge and Denham Deep for years. The BCN has several areas with colonies.
    1 point
  9. Likewise who needs an anchor? It's not like there's an uprotected weir or a low bridge on that waterway....and not like a steering failure would ever happen to any boat...
    1 point
  10. For the pedants I'll repost ([approximately] doubling the size of the original post) "I know someone who bought a brand new Ford Focus. Some days after he bought it a neighbour pointed out that the front and back number plates were different, the front one matching the tax disk. On examination by the owner, whilst the front number plate matched the logbook - the back one didn't!"
    1 point
  11. Ok, I'll be brave, this is one I painted of Jo on Dotterel in Claydon locks (I think). It is A3 ish. Perspective is interesting as the boat has a different vanishing point to the lock (nose up hill a bit) and the vanishing point for the brickwork in the lock side is 4 feet off to the left. The hardest bit was painting Jo! She seems to like it though.
    1 point
  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. I'm using option 2 for 3 leisures. Easy to setup. A solar panel would do the job with the SOC while you are away. Same use as you with 200W. Works well.
    1 point
  15. 1). No, not a bad idea unless one is totally knackered (in which case throw it away!) You might want to put 2 in parallel and keep the 3rd for engine starting though; if you flattened them all how would you start your engine? 2). In parallel (+ve to +ve and -ve to -ve) and yes. 3). Yes if you have the ability to crimp terminals onto 25mm2 cable. Yes, 25mm2. If you can't crimp them yourself then get them made up and just bolt them to the batteries yourself.
    1 point
  16. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  17. They'd be a bit too big but these are just as good....
    1 point
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. 1.Not best practice, but acceptable if batteries in good condition with no short circuit cells. 2. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html If you connect 12V batteries in parallel, the voltage will remain the same whilst giving you a bigger capacity. 3. It is simple enough depending on your ability, but will likely involve making up new cables and crimping, which may be worth paying someone else to do. Cable size will depend on your max load/charging input. 4.Nicknorman ,WotEver, TonyBrooks 5.It is usual to keep a separate battery for engine starting Good luck
    1 point
  20. When I bought my Ford Focus I took it on complete trust that I got the engine as advertised. I have absolutely no interest in opening the bonnet except to fill the washer bottle. Tim
    1 point
  21. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  22. Have been out since April cruising up and down the K&A then into London. Been through Oxford down the Thames. Now on the Ashby. I agree with your comments about some live aboard being rather standoffish. We still really enjoyed the K&A though and London. I take the view that if people want to be unfriendly then that's not my problem. I will go on waving and just grin when I get blanked. Ian.
    1 point
  23. There is a water point on the SU about 300 hundred yards or so from the stop lock (just past the boatyard). Howard
    1 point
  24. There is something called the Wormleighton maintenance loop which is just an extra parallel track. Have a look here It's is part of a maintenance strategy defined here Cheers Graham
    1 point
  25. Method 2 here: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Hope that helps
    1 point
  26. No idea, very much a caravan thing nowadays. Boats usually use a pressurised system. Don't buy anything until you test the circuit. Under the tap there should be two cables hanging down probably with some form of joints to the boat's wiring. Disconnect the boat's wires and join the together. That should put 12V straight to the pump. If the pump works its the switch in the tap. If it does not then you probably have a very poor connection somewhere else in the pump circuit. Possibly a hidden connection where something else Ts off the 12v supply line OR on the negative. make sure all the screws in the negative bus bar that is usally close to the fuses are tight.
    1 point
  27. In theory, once you have dealt with where to put the leisure battery, securing it and venting it etc., all you need to do is connect the cable which goes to the domestic fuse box to the 'new' battery positive terminal via an isolator switch and fuse and join the negative terminal of the new battery to the old battery negative. Your lights etc. then run off the 'new ' battery. Then you need to sort out how both batteries are charged. That will mean connecting the new battery positive to the old battery positive with either an ignition switch operated relay, a Voltage Sensitive Relay or a blocking diode. Blocking diodes are not really a good idea as the cause voltage drop and the 'new battery will take longer to charge. the solar also needs to be connected up to the 'new' battery. N
    1 point
  28. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  29. Possibly, but would the average motorist know a 1.6 engine from a 1.8? I have a reasonably new car, but I have never checked to see if I have the 1.3 engine I am supposed to have! George
    1 point
  30. Just a thought Rich how about the red cut off switch breaking up. I say that I lost my 12v domestic side while out on the canal a few months ago lights dimmed then just stopped working and that was the red cut off switch. My son rode back to the marina shop got a new one all worked well.
    1 point
  31. Personally I think that lining out and then fitting bulkheads invoves less work, plus you create the possibility to move the bulkheads in the future if you want to re-design the interior layout. The bulkheads on our boat were originally fitted before lining out, so when we came to the re-fit, we wanted to move some of the bulkeads. Not only did that involve removing the lining first, but it also left gaps in the lining which had to be capped. need less to say the new bulkheads were fitted after the lining had been re-organized.
    1 point
  32. I half heartily did and still had the problem. You can’t redo the connections half heartily! I ended up relocating the negative on the starter motor bolt as it was in a poor place before.
    1 point
  33. Just about the only thing that goes wrong with those starters is contact wear, and it doesn't sound at all like that. However, that main positive connection looks to me like it's been getting warm so I would take a damned good look at that.
    1 point
  34. I had this problem on my diesel genny, it turned out to be two problems, first was the negative connection to the engine so check all connections! Second was my starter shorted out internally, if your starter gets hot very quickly and using a lot of amps (checked via a clamp meter) it may be this. One quick method to test is move the starter battery close to the engine and run directly a new negative and positive directly to the engine and starter on cleaned up cables. This reduces the amount of connections to four, and if it works you know it’s a dodgy cabling somewhere.
    1 point
  35. "Above 12 volts" isn't good enough and 12.3 volts is only about 50% charged. Starter battery should read 12.6v at least.
    1 point
  36. Since you have used jump leads direct too the starter and a number of different batteries I would say the only thing left is to check the engine turns freely and if so it's your starter. Can you post a picture? If so I could have a better idea of how to confirm it. Different starters fail for different reasons and a picture would allow me to identify it.
    1 point
  37. Are your jump leads of good quality? more often than not cheap ones usually with ally cables are useless. Connect The black- cable to neg- on battery, the other end of it to starter body or engine mass close to the starter. On the starter solenoid there should be two large terminal nuts, one of which has the red pos+ cable attached to it, the other one connects to the starters motor. First connect your Pos red jump cable from the battery to this lower terminal nut, the one which serves the starters motor. The starter motor should spin up briskly without engaging with the engines ring gear. Now put the red jump lead onto the other pos+ terminal nut, the one with the red cable on it. Along side these large terminal nuts will be a small terminal nut or spade terminal with a thin wire on it which comes from the starter key or button. Get a short bit of wire and fix it to this small terminal and then touch the large terminal nut with the red+ cable on it with the other end of it. Everything should be by-passed and the starter should work and whip the engine round. But I expect you've already done this. If so, re check all your cable connections. And mind not to touch the engine mass or starter body with the pos+ jump lead clamp, or you'll get a firework display.
    1 point
  38. As Heffalump and Laurie Booth say ( Laurie should know he went through the exact same thing himself last year). Follow Tony Brooks advice.
    1 point
  39. Check connections and earths, a bad connection would allow a bit of power through but not enough
    1 point
  40. He did try a jump start from both his domestic and another boat. I would look at the isolator switch and check voltages on the started terminal while trying to crank.
    1 point
  41. How many batteries in the bank Rich? Does your engine start off one starter battery or use the domestics? Just trying to understand why the batts you tested seem fine, but the sound would indicate flat battery. Maybe the domestic bank is good, but the starer batt is dead.
    1 point
  42. Dirty ignition switch/solanoid connectors?
    1 point
  43. Please check the battery contacts.
    1 point
  44. How clean and tight are the connections between battery clamp and battery post? When did you last clean them to bright metal?
    1 point
  45. Check the battery voltage when you have other loads on, lights, fridge etc.
    1 point
  46. The batteries are knackered! They don't have enough energy left to turn the engine over. I suggest you buy some cheapos and then figure out why they were not getting fully charged. Perhaps the battery charger has failed or the alternator or both! Get someone to give them a good charge for 24 hours but I'm not optimistic. Something has flattened them and unless it was very recent they have probably suffered.
    1 point
  47. Danny Kelly, 07879 484264 might be worth a call. He's based in the west of Scotland. Pretty sure he's 3.5 ton (boat plus trailer) limit as well.
    1 point
  48. Nasty. http://www.hackneygazette.co.uk/news/crime-court/river-lea-towpath-robberies-police-investigate-four-more-attacks-1-5139587
    0 points
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