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Hi all,

I'm hoping you might be able to help us regarding our door fit so that it is not only cladded, but we can also fit the locks, vents and handles. As I've mentioned on other threads I'm new and might get some terminology wrong so apologies in advance...

We are trying to fit our door as it is currently just steel - the door and roof hatch to the stern, but we completely can't work out what material to use? My other half thought MDF would be fine, but I'm suspicious of this. He also seems to think that it being one clean sheet will make it more sturdy.

I had somewhere in my head that birch ply would be better, as this will probably be what we use for the walls also - and that fitting it like a panelled door would be more attractive.

Now after a brief argument in B & Q, followed by a brief sulk in Wickes we don't know what we think about anything anymore...

To fit with our decor plans we will likely paint it white and grey, so getting something lovely like oak seems a bit of a waste.

Any advice on the general fit of the doors/hatch is really greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

If your going to paint it. How about 18mm wbp ply.You can also attatch little square bits and trim to tart it up a bit. 

The depth we seem to need to cover is 25mm - so this would justify some 7mm tarting I assume?

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At the very least, WBP ply. Better would be hardwood marine ply but that's maybe OTT as you're painting it.

Ordinary ply, OSB board, Blockboard, MDF will all fall to pieces with damp. 

DO NOT buy so-called Marine Ply from the diy sheds - it's rubbish. 

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7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

At the very least, WBP ply. Better would be hardwood marine ply but that's maybe OTT as you're painting it.

Ordinary ply, OSB board, Blockboard, MDF will all fall to pieces with damp. 

DO NOT buy so-called Marine Ply from the diy sheds - it's rubbish. 

Brilliant, thank you WotEver and rusty69

Ok - so this http://www.jewson.co.uk/timber/sheet-materials/plywood/softwood-plywood/products/PLYFCE18/coniferous-wbp-plywood-18-x-1200-x-2440mm/ - sealed to prevent any moisture getting in?

Or how do I tell the difference between proper hardwood marine ply or so-called marine ply? Will any of the national brands/timber yards be any good? Or I'm in Derby atm if someone can recommend a shop.

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Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 

'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet ;)

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1 minute ago, WotEver said:

Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 

'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet ;)

Brilliant - I will search for marine ply as I'd rather have the proper stuff, but if not will go WBP. 

And if we go marine ply does that need sealing too?

Finally if they sell sheets in 18mm and 6mm depths - will it matter that I'm 1mm off the depth of the steel of my door?

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2 minutes ago, Peppers said:

Brilliant - I will search for marine ply as I'd rather have the proper stuff, but if not will go WBP. 

And if we go marine ply does that need sealing too?

Finally if they sell sheets in 18mm and 6mm depths - will it matter that I'm 1mm off the depth of the steel of my door?

Yes, still seal it. Why tempt fate?

1mm less will be fine - your Marineflex will probably be that thick anyway ;)

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4 minutes ago, WotEver said:

1mm less will be fine - your Marineflex will probably be that thick anyway ;)

Ooo I'm glad you've mentioned Marineflex! I can't find anywhere to buy it - will this do do you think? http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-white-300ml/87344#

 

ps. thank you for resolving our domestic thus far

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4 hours ago, Peppers said:

Ooo I'm glad you've mentioned Marineflex! I can't find anywhere to buy it - will this do do you think? http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-white-300ml/87344#

 

ps. thank you for resolving our domestic thus far

ebt is my least favourite variety of Sikaflex, probably because it it's very sticky when it comes out of the tube, sticking to the traditional wet finger, but sets harder than 221 or the (more expensive) 291i.

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17 hours ago, WotEver said:

Yes that would be okay if you carefully seal the edges and paint both sides (at least, seal the reverse). 

'Proper' marine ply is made from hardwood veneers and glued with a waterproof glue. The easiest way to tell the difference is it's £80 a sheet ;)

Yes, the good stuff is expensive but worth it. There are two main types available, one being made of very hard veneers which may be more suitable for your intended use and the other being made from gaboon which is a softer hardwood! more often used in boat building being more flexible, it marks easily until coated with a resin or similar. For panelling a steel door a quality birch ply would be ample and half of the cost. 

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This is great stuff - WBP ply bought and cut to size today (I couldn't find Marine Ply without waiting days for it).

 

Our next challenge is the locks - we were thinking a yale (at the top into the roof hatch) and bolts, but considered an extra mortice lock through the centre for added security...any thoughts on the ideal lock set up

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1 minute ago, Matt&Jo said:

Most i have viewed just have a simple drop over hinge with a padlock........

This arrangement is not safe the hasp should be on the door and the staple on the roof slide. That way the hasp cannot accidentally drop and trap you in the boat. This happenned to me years ago when I was trapped in the back cabin of a working boat. Only some delicate work with a table fork enabled me to escape!!

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The last one I did I fitted two sliding bolts on the hatch, one each side at the back. Then two sliding bolts on one of the doors, one at the top into the slide and the other into the floor. The other door had a Yale-type nightlatch which locked it to the fixed door. It was secure, easy to access with a key from outside or by turning the knob from the inside. 

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3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

The last one I did I fitted two sliding bolts on the hatch, one each side at the back. Then two sliding bolts on one of the doors, one at the top into the slide and the other into the floor. The other door had a Yale-type nightlatch which locked it to the fixed door. It was secure, easy to access with a key from outside or by turning the knob from the inside. 

That's basically what I did, though the hatch was held on to the runners by a couple of m4 bolts which I felt were not strong enough so bolted a couple of brackets to the sliding hatch which were just under the hatch runners, so even if you removed/broke the fixing bolts, the hatch will not hinge up and over.

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