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A week on the Grand-Union on a Wyvern Hireboat


Michael Donning

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Hello forum!

I took the leap over the north sea (sitting near Hamburg at the moment) and booked a narrowboat at Wyvern Shipping for August. This is our first time and we're going with our little herd of kids (11-14) as "lock-slaves" (hopefully) and I'm still a wee bit clueless whether to go north or south (or both). I'd be happy about any advice.

Originally I hoped it would be nice for the kids to do a studio tour at watford (seeing the Harry Potter set) but I now realize that this is booked out weeks in advance. So probably not a destination as such.

Concerning pubs. Usually we'll try to cook on the boat. As we've vegan and vegetarian eaters in the family the pub selection may be a bit tricky. I'd be happy about hints anyway.

Please excuse me if my language skills lack a bit here and there. Obviously, English isn't my mother tongue.

Thank you!

Edited by Michael Donning
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Hello Michael,

How long have you booked the boat for?

What are you interested in seeing?

A generalisation from Wyvern is that heading north you'll be travelling more through countryside apart from the stretch through Milton Keynes. There are not that many locks until you reach Stoke Bruerne which is the home of the canal museum. Then you have the 3057 yards long Blisworth tunnel.

Going south towards London you will have many more locks to operate as you go over the tring summit. A nice side trip is down the Aylesbury arm into the recently done up canal basin. After going over tring summit there are more towns to Moor in. Berkhamsted - Hemel Hempstead  ( good vegan restaurant just past Apsley marina called Woodys)- Kings Langley- Rickmansworth etc.

The key is how long you have the boat for.

When I first hired a boat I found it worthwhile investing in a Nicholson waterways guide a month before my holiday. You could get the one for the Grand Union from Amazon or elsewhere on the Internet. It a map of the canal which shows you where all the points of interest, locks, amenities etc are. It helped me decide where to go and where to moor up plus enabled me to calculate timings of the trip to ensure I didn't bring the boat back late!

Have a great holiday, I had so many great experiences hiring that I ended up buying a boat and have been living aboard for a few years now.

Edit; I should really have read the title of your post! Depending on how many hours you want to sail vs how much exploring local areas you want to do and what your sailing experience is ,a week going south including the Aylesbury arm you could get to Hemel Hempstead  before having to turn around. Going north you could probably reach the Braunstone Turn before having to travel back. 

Edited by Nunovyrbizz
Didn't read the title!
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42 minutes ago, Michael Donning said:

Hello forum!

I took the leap over the north sea (sitting near Hamburg at the moment) and booked a narrowboat at Wyvern Shipping for August. This is our first time and we're going with our little herd of kids (11-14) as "lock-slaves" (hopefully) and I'm still a wee bit clueless whether to go north or south (or both). I'd be happy about any advice.

Originally I hoped it would be nice for the kids to do a studio tour at watford (seeing the Harry Potter set) but I now realize that this is booked out weeks in advance. So probably not a destination as such.

Concerning pubs. Usually we'll try to cook on the boat. As we've vegan and vegetarian eaters in the family the pub selection may be a bit tricky. I'd be happy about hints anyway.

Please excuse me if my language skills lack a bit here and there. Obviously, English isn't my mother tongue.

Thank you!

Ahh Vegans.......we cater for them. How do you like your lettuce leaf? we do look after gluten free diets also and only ever use gluten free water. You will have a great week but seriously if you do want to eat out with vegans onboard you will have to research well any food outlets :cheers:

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29 minutes ago, Michael Donning said:

Hello forum!

I took the leap over the north sea (sitting near Hamburg at the moment) and booked a narrowboat at Wyvern Shipping for August. This is our first time and we're going with our little herd of kids (11-14) as "lock-slaves" (hopefully) and I'm still a wee bit clueless whether to go north or south (or both). I'd be happy about any advice.

Originally I hoped it would be nice for the kids to do a studio tour at watford (seeing the Harry Potter set) but I now realize that this is booked out weeks in advance. So probably not a destination as such.

Concerning pubs. Usually we'll try to cook on the boat. As we've vegan and vegetarian eaters in the family the pub selection may be a bit tricky. I'd be happy about hints anyway.

Please excuse me if my language skills lack a bit here and there. Obviously, English isn't my mother tongue.

Thank you!

Your use of English puts many over here to shame....

Without checking my figures - so mostly on memories, you have fewer locks if you go North. (Going South from the  Tring summit, the locks keep coming relentlessly, as do the permanently moored boats).

The other way - North (as has been pointed out), you have Stoke Bruerne and its museum, the tunnel a side trip to Foxton Locks and it own museum and of course Braunston.

Before you  set your route in stone have a look at CanalPlanAC to not only plan stops but there are photos of many places. Google Earth is also useful for occasional views.

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23 minutes ago, Michael Donning said:

You're lightning fast! Thank you for your great answers so far.

The trip is going for a week from saturday to saturday. And I'm planning to purchase the Nicholson (maybe alsro the Pearson) guide in advance.

You can get both/ either from Amazon - often at a good discount from the cover price. 

Canal plan says three long days to Braunston and back - so plenty of choice for a side trip. Here  http://canalplan.org.uk/

Maps from CaRT here - http://www.waterscape.com/things-to-do/boating/guides

So save a little for now and have a look at the above

 

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1 hour ago, Michael Donning said:

You're lightning fast! Thank you for your great answers so far.

The trip is going for a week from saturday to saturday. And I'm planning to purchase the Nicholson (maybe alsro the Pearson) guide in advance.

I prefer Pearson but they are both good!

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I would head north, MK is interesting, 'trough' over River Ouse at Wolverton good, lovely countryside once through Cosgrove Lock, Stoke Bruerne and Museum good and then the Blisworth Tunnel. Don't try to do too much, long days are not too much fun and who knows what the weather will be like.............

M.

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Braunston would be an obvious destination. It's about 5.5 full days there and back so there is a bit of leeway. Read up about the history of its importance to canals and then have a good look round when you get there. Stop at the Stoke Bruerne museum as well. If you want to do plenty of cruising (and why wouldn't you when you have paid for a boat for the week?) you could carry on to Napton or perhaps up the Watford flight to Crick as a detour.

JP

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1 hour ago, Captain Pegg said:

Braunston would be an obvious destination.

Not sure I agree, even though I am sat outside the Admiral Nelson right now, typing this.

Yes it is an enormously historical place canal wise.  However, unless there is some big event on, (as there will be next weekend), I don't think there is a whole heap here that makes it a big destination.

I have friends with a strong interest in the canals, but who are not boat owners.  They have made the "pilgrimage" here, and been left rather underwhelmed.

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Plenty of tips. :) Thank you also for the CaCRT map/guides. I did not know about that.

I'll have to see how the family gets by with longer travel times. Probably nature is more important than historic town walks. Kids tend to get bored with the latter unless there's an ice cream around the next corner. Still, a museum visit is good for a change. The Kids enjoyed maritime museums so far (i.e. Fregatten Jylland in Ebeltoft, Denmark or the International Maritime Museum here in Hamburg). I've also seen a number of geocaches along the canal. So we'll probably also get some on the way.

If the weather is fine (we'll bring some good weather with us if necessary) access to swimming facilities (pools/lakes etc.) or waterplay of any kind would be interesting.

The two longer tunnels on the way north trouble me a bit. That makes four lengthy tunnel passages if we head to braunston & back. Anyway maybe a good opportunity for a part of the family to go on a nice walk on the outside the tunnel.

Edited by Michael Donning
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I always found that locks and tunnels were what kept kids interested. The Ashby and the long stretches of the southern Shropshire Union were easily the least engaging hire boat trips I ever did as a family. If there is an issue with confined spaces then maybe it isn't the best plan but if you head north you would be a bit constrained by not wanting to head past Stoke Bruerne as you could be there by the end of the first full day. The tunnels aren't a problem in a navigational sense.

JP

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1 hour ago, Michael Donning said:

Plenty of tips. :) Thank you also for the CaCRT map/guides. I did not know about that.

I'll have to see how the family gets by with longer travel times. Probably nature is more important than historic town walks. Kids tend to get bored with the latter unless there's an ice cream around the next corner. Still, a museum visit is good for a change. The Kids enjoyed maritime museums so far (i.e. Fregatten Jylland in Ebeltoft, Denmark or the International Maritime Museum here in Hamburg). I've also seen a number of geocaches along the canal. So we'll probably also get some on the way.

If the weather is fine (we'll bring some good weather with us if necessary) access to swimming facilities (pools/lakes etc.) or waterplay of any kind would be interesting.

The two longer tunnels on the way north trouble me a bit. That makes four lengthy tunnel passages if we head to braunston & back. Anyway maybe a good opportunity for a part of the family to go on a nice walk on the outside the tunnel.

Hi,

 

They should really, not so much from a navigational point of view, but journeying through them at busy times is unpleasant as the accumulation of diesel fumes is tremendous. I would time my journey to passing through them very early in the morning.

In view of your comments a journey south could see a diversion down the Aylesbury arm, moor in the town centre, and a swimming complex is close to the basin. Hope that helps.

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Wanted to say thank you again for the great tips and info. Naturally, it seems that every direction has its advantages and either way will be wonderful, be it north or south from Linslade.

I now found a really detailed Article from a family going from Linslade/Leighton Buzzwar to Braunston and back in a week. And they even went with "our" boat, the Pearl!

http://www.aboutbritain.com/articles/narrowboat-holidays-grand-union-canal.asp

Milton Keynes seems to be quite attractive for the kids. They're also opening a nice "Splash Park" at Willen Lake in July 15th. The above article also mentions a kids play park (naturally, there are more) at Bridge 78 in Great Linford Park.

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On 20/06/2017 at 07:52, Michael Donning said:

The two longer tunnels on the way north trouble me a bit. That makes four lengthy tunnel passages if we head to braunston & back. Anyway maybe a good opportunity for a part of the family to go on a nice walk on the outside the tunnel.

If you do decide to have people walk over the tunnels, please be aware that whilst there is a very pleasant walk over Braunston tunnel, through fields, involving just one road crossing on a straight stretch of road, there is not an independent footpath over the (longer) Blisworth tunnel, and most of that would have to be walked along a road which, although not particularly busy, has no footpath beside it.  I don't find that walk pleasant.

If you do walk over Braunston tunnel, you will note it has three large brick towers for the air-shafts, but unless they study it very closely, those passing through on the boat will only pass under two openings.  The challenge is to see how the third one is connected to the tunnel, and even if you already know how, it is easy to miss it.

Don't be too put off by the suggestion they are "fume filled".  Generally they ventilate fairly well, and it is unusual not to be able to see through each from one end to the other.

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Interesting fact about Braunston tunnel, I'll try to remember to watch out if we get that far.

I've seen that a stroll along the "Stoke Road" above the Blisworth tunnel might not be that pleasant. But at least my passengers have a choice if they fear claustrophobia. Anyway, we visited two old mines in the Harz (here in Germany) without problems so I don't expect much drama.

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4 hours ago, Michael Donning said:

Interesting fact about Braunston tunnel, I'll try to remember to watch out if we get that far.

I've seen that a stroll along the "Stoke Road" above the Blisworth tunnel might not be that pleasant. But at least my passengers have a choice if they fear claustrophobia. Anyway, we visited two old mines in the Harz (here in Germany) without problems so I don't expect much drama.

If you do go that way just set out a broad plan that will get you to Braunston. The folks in that article were very leisurely in their progress but they showed you can have plenty of time to stop en route which sounds similar to your ideas.

JP

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/22/2017 at 08:38, alan_fincher said:

If you do walk over Braunston tunnel, you will note it has three large brick towers for the air-shafts, but unless they study it very closely, those passing through on the boat will only pass under two openings.  The challenge is to see how the third one is connected to the tunnel, and even if you already know how, it is easy to miss it.

I boated through the tunnel and then walked back over the top on the Sunday afternoon of the Braunston historic show.

I suspect the answer is that the shaft at the Braunston end was sunk out of alignment with the others and connects to the tunnel by an adit that curves back and away from the southern/western sidewall/haunch toward the Braunston end of the tunnel. I could see light shining through the adit and that's pretty much the only logical explanation.

JP

 

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3 hours ago, Captain Pegg said:

I boated through the tunnel and then walked back over the top on the Sunday afternoon of the Braunston historic show.

I suspect the answer is that the shaft at the Braunston end was sunk out of alignment with the others and connects to the tunnel by an adit that curves back and away from the southern/western sidewall/haunch toward the Braunston end of the tunnel. I could see light shining through the adit and that's pretty much the only logical explanation.

JP

 

It is surely the middle shaft that is offset from the tunnel alignment though?

I assume, but don't know for certain, that it is further underground there, and it is to avoid a greater weight of brickwork pressing on the tunnel roof.

Anybody know for certain?

 

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3 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

It is surely the middle shaft that is offset from the tunnel alignment though?

I assume, but don't know for certain, that it is further underground there, and it is to avoid a greater weight of brickwork pressing on the tunnel roof.

Anybody know for certain?

 

Quite possibly it is the middle one. I just seemed to be still quite close to the northern portal when I passed it.

I can't see why a shaft wouldn't be built in line. It doesn't appear to be particularly deep. The initial purpose was to excavate the tunnel from the foot of the shaft. Being offline it isn't much use for that unless there was a wider area of excavation that was filled in on completion. It suggests therefore it may have been a later addition. Possibly due to problems with an original shaft or for additional ventilation. I am still reluctant to rule out cock-up.

JP

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Forum, we just returned from our Journey on the Grand Union. Despite 2 days of rain we enjoyed it very much. I would like to thank the forum for the very helpful tips and leave a few words ands images to tell about our impressions on the canal from a beginners / hireboat skippers view.

The Journey:

We went north from Leighton Buzzard to Braunston and back. You'll find yourself cruising most of the day (we cruised around 4-8h each day). Still there's enough time left here & there for shorter visits to some places along the canal you're interested in. But cruising is what the journey makes special. And that is what we came for. While going on the canal everybody in the family had plenty of time to enjoy the travel, relax and do what they want. There's enough room on the boat or you can go for a walk on the towpath. The boat is hardly every faster than you can walk. (If you're slightly faster, there'll be boats around the next bend which you'll have to pass at Tick-Over).

The Locks:

The locks were wide and even though we traveled in high season there were no mentionable queues on the locks. A bit higher traffic on the leg between Napton Junction and Braunston but still bearable. But many of the locks are hard work to operate. The heavy doors some times took several attempts to get moving (especially by the kids). So we were happy everytime when we shared the locks (saves water, I  know) and had assistance. Also you'll usually have a nice chats from lock to lock with the people in the other boat.

The Tunnels:

Actually, we found them very interesting. You often can see the end of the tunnel quite soon after you enter it (at least if no other boats are blocking the view). We had to pass the blisworth and braunston tunnel two times and it was fun. Ok, braunston tunnel must've been built by drunken surveyors. So many ditches and little bends. Anyway, we had a set of walkie-talkies with us on the journey and placed two kids as lookout in the bow. (One too look out and the second to look after the other). Kept them entertained and busy while telling us about how far the approaching boats were in the tunnel etc.

The People:

Are lovely. The cliché that English people are very polite and friendly proved true on the canal. Each skipper we met gave at least a friendly wave or greet when we passed. I very rarely had to pass a bridge as second because I was waved through by the other boat as soon as I got in sight. (Lost the "you first, please" battle so to say). We had a little chat with many while passing and some were especially nice and virtually flooded us with nice wishes. Similar for people on the towpath. Sometimes we felt a bit like the Queen - waving and smiling - especially when we passed families with little kids who watched the boats.

Mooring:

Yes, there are plenty of places where you can moor on the towpath on the Grand Union. But if you search a nice place for mooring in popular places or specifically want to moor on the next few miles (i.e. before you pass the next tunnel or series of locks) it can get problematic because of:

- Maybe you're a bit picky and don't want to moor right next to a very active railway or motorway or a bridge with heavy traffic and want to use your plank only as last resort.
- Maybe there's just a festival going somewhere in in the next 2 weeks and mooring is reserved these 2 weeks in advance to those which have booked (you have not).
- Maybe the canal is to shallow to get anywhere near the towpath or you get near enough to it but the path is right at the water and no room to put your pegs in. (no hooks possible at that embankment)
- Maybe the embankment is just to degraded and you don't want hear your boat scratching on the debris during the night.
- Naturally, then there's also: Private Mooring, Long Term Mooring, Winding Holes, Marina Entries etc.

Actually we didn't moor in Braunston because we could not find a proper place between the locks and Braunston turn. (Also, it was constantly raining during that day and we didn't feel like asking people out of their boats in the rain to ask for side-by-side mooring). Also we didn't find a mooring place in Blisworth on the way back (perhaps we were just too picky). Many places were reserved for a festival a week later and we didn't want to moor in the bend before the tunnel. So we went through the tunnel and found still no mooring in stoke bruerne but finally had a nice stay below the top 2 locks.

Shopping (basic for food etc.):

Best shopping was right at the start in Leighton Buzzard. Tesco has a visitor mooring across wyvern shipping but if you shop before you're on the boat you have to get to the other side of the canal which is a 15-20minutes walk. After you get on the boat the very helpful "absolute beginners" instructions of wyvern usually take you through the first lock away from the Tesco. We didn't visit the tesco at Fenny Straford but perhaps it is not a bad choice. We actually missed the perfect mooring for the Tesco at Wolverton (which is in a corner at the Sculptures and new Bridge) and had to walk 500m back. Didn't find the walk in town too entertaining. The little Tesco in Weedon Bec is not too far from the canal.

The Boat:

Was very nice. Even had a central heating and warm water by gas which we appreciated during the rainy days. Our family of 5 fit well in the Pearl (6 berths). Handling was good as long as you didn't decide to speed past 1500rpm/3.6mph. (Which seemed to be kind of intentional ;-) Boat was in best condition and people+instruction at wyvern were perfect.

 

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Edited by Michael Donning
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