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Sand or Non-Slip?


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We are about to apply a fresh finish to the gunwales and rear deck area of Python. This finish will be black. The question is whether to use traditional sand onto the paint or a more modern non-slip finish. 

I was all set to apply sand but a conversation with someone who's views I respect suggested as a sanded finish wears it can allow moisture to get at the steel and so we would be better to apply a more modern non-slip finish in these areas. There have been many coats of non-slip applied to the rear deck over the years and it's taking a while to take them all off! 

 Views, opinions and suggestions are all very welcome thank you 

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11 minutes ago, cheshire~rose said:

Views, opinions and suggestions are all very welcome thank you 

I used this :

https://www.promain.co.uk/rubber-anti-slip-rubber-paint.html

 

Very happy with the results and can easily be 'scrubbed' to get any 'muck' out of the pimples.

Speak to them - I found them very welcoming and helpful - will even send you samples of coated metal to look at.

As a Charity, they may even do a deal for you.

 

Picture of he 'fine' and the 'coarse' - the coarse is not as course as it looks and the fine is almost smooth. Go for the coarse if you decide to use it.

 

 

IMG_1328.JPG

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43 minutes ago, cheshire~rose said:

as a sanded finish wears it can allow moisture to get at the steel

I can't see how that would happen. The usual method of achieving a sanded finish is several coats of gloss, then the sand applied to the next coat, then another coat on top. You could wear all the sand off and still have two or more coats of gloss below it. 

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10 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I can't see how that would happen. The usual method of achieving a sanded finish is several coats of gloss, then the sand applied to the next coat, then another coat on top. You could wear all the sand off and still have two or more coats of gloss below it. 

5 Coats (3 + 1 paint & sand + 1 top coat)

That's the reason I went for the 'Promain' stuff - goes down in a single coat (on top of a primer) but a second coat can be added if you want. I did, as I didn't get a very even coverage due to not stirring the tin / paint enough to start with. It may be more expensive than enamel but you use 1/5th of the amount.

Designed for commercial walkways it is extremely tough and wear resistant -

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Thanks for that. 

The suggestion about sand not being ideal was a half conversation as part of a rushed phone call about something else. You know when you ponder on it afterwards and wished you had more detail but know the person is busy and you don't want to disturb their day again? 

That's why I thought I would ask  here because there is often more than one way to skin a cat!

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36 minutes ago, cheshire~rose said:

That non-slip stuff looks good Alan. 12 hour curing time when outdoors may be a problem. If you have to keep moisture off that's 2 dry days needed. It doesn't go very far either. I suspect we have 5 metres to cover

From memory - its 'surface dry' and can be 'walked on' and is 'damp-resistant' after a couple of hours.

I think finding a 'weather window' to put on 5 coats of standard enamel would be harder.

It was just a suggestion and I have no interest apart from as a 'satisfied user'

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I've used the rubbery additive on the roof, but the side decks and rear deck is done in sand.

It was done nine years ago and there is no evidence of it wearing through, on a fairly well-used boat.  It does need to be done properly, i.e. fine sand (the kiln-dried sort that is used for filling the gaps on brick drives) and put on over sufficient coats.

I've had a couple of non-slip finishes and they look alright, but can still be slippery when wet - rather important on the side decks.

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Just to add to this I have been told by a reliable surveyor that CRT use sand on their decks although it is said to be sharp sand rather than the kiln dried block paving sand. It does have to be dried out and seived though. 

Another suggestion is to use bead blasting media such as silica carbide as this can be purchased in a coarse grade but the mail order supplies I have seen are either too big for what we need or rather expensive 

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55 minutes ago, embis said:

I have been looking at nonslip tape to put on the gunnels, any views on this ?

Also wondering if you can paint over it satisfactorily?

you may run into problems with tape and the adhesive failing after a few years or in high temperatures.

a lot of adhesives used on tapes become gummy at warmer temps allowing the tape to slide (the last thing you want)

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21 hours ago, Jess-- said:

you may run into problems with tape and the adhesive failing after a few years or in high temperatures.

a lot of adhesives used on tapes become gummy at warmer temps allowing the tape to slide (the last thing you want)

Good quality tape should't fail but you'd need to make sure the paint that it was being applied to is sound and then clean and spirit wipe the surface before applying. I think the main problem is if water starts to get under it. 

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On 2017-6-19 at 08:03, Alan de Enfield said:

How grippy is that stuff in the wet Alan?

I ask only because while rubber to rubber (shoe sole to surface) friction is great in the dry it can become slippery when wet. 

I guess that's why roads aren't made of rubber. :lol:

 

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19 minutes ago, blackrose said:

How grippy is that stuff in the wet Alan?

I ask only because while rubber to rubber (shoe sole to surface) friction is great in the dry it can become slippery when wet. 

I guess that's why roads aren't made of rubber. :lol:

 

I have yet to slip on it (after 12 months).

Once applied I squirted it with the deck wash and tried to 'slip' on it and failed.

It is designed for commercial walkways, fire escapes etc and appears to meet the necessary H&S requirements

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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I have yet to slip on it (after 12 months).

Once applied I squirted it with the deck wash and tried to 'slip' on it and failed.

It is designed for commercial walkways, fire escapes etc and appears to meet the necessary H&S requirements

Thanks

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3 hours ago, blackrose said:

If you just want a non-slip paint that's easy to apply and gives a decent non-slip finish then you can't go far wrong with International Interdeck, but I don't think you'll get it in black.

 

Easy to apply???

It's a gritty paste which is stippled or dabbed onto the undercoat. OK for the gunnels walkway and possibly the rear deck, so OK for Python. I've just decided not to do my roof in it, and switched to Craftmaster Light Grey Raddle, the first coat of which bodes well. Seems to have a rubbery non slippy surface, so far.

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