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OR a manual Pela oil extractor that does the same thing but get the oil very warm first - so you can just about bear your hand on the sump.

Screwfix sell them - also very useful for sucking whatever is lurking at the bottom of the fuel tank each year. (As is an electric oil drainer).

PS, if its a decent   marinisation you should have a brass sump pump already fitted, often at the back of the exhaust manifold.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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As Tony suggests, most marinized BMC 1.5 engines have a bilge extraction pump fitted, have you checked to make sure you haven't got one? It is the long brass tap like item on the left hand side of the photo, it may be located elsewhere, but will look very similar. If it hasn't got an extraction pump, you can see the sump drain plug, low down towards the back of the engine, just below the copper pipe.

Oh, and by the way, welcome to the forum.

59204605359d8_24EngineGearbox01.JPG.6ac41283b55296bfbbd3847bdb22c888.JPG

 

Edited by David Schweizer
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If you do not turn it off (off is as shown in the photo) crankcase pressure can blow oil out of the spout so turn it on to drain and when done turn it off. Some such pumps have a screwed plug/cap on the spout that does the same thing.

Some proper marinisations have a three way tap so you can drain the gearbox as well as the engine.

These pumps have a habit of shedding the piston or have the piston valve fall apart. If it won't pump unscrew the cap the pump rod goes through and fish the parts out & reassemble. Its much like a cycle pump with a valve in the "washer".

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Stage by Stage Instructions:-

1. Turn the small tap at the bottom of the pump so that it is in line with the copper pipe.

2. Holding a container below the pump spout, start to pump the handle up and down - the oil will tend to spurt out rather than flow smoothly, so make sure the spout is inside the container.

3. When no more oil is coming out of the spout, turn the small tap so that it is at right angles to the copper pipe.

4. Remove the sealing cap from the rocker cover and refill with new oil. Check the oil level periodiclly during this process, and allow time for all the oil to run down into the sump. (use the volume of old oil as a rough measure and add a bit for the filter)

Note:  If no oil comes out with the pumping action, try turning the tap into the other position, it is unlikely  (but possible) that someone has fitted the tap lever incorrectly. If that fails, dismantle the pump and inspect/repair as suggested in Tony's post.

Edited by David Schweizer
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Make sure you  change the oil filter at the same time . If you have the canister type not screw on then a Mahle OX13 is one filter that fits . Costs about £6 from your local motor factor .

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1 hour ago, Troyboy said:

Make sure you  change the oil filter at the same time . If you have the canister type not screw on then a Mahle OX13 is one filter that fits . Costs about £6 from your local motor factor .

If you have the original type of oil filter with a single bolt through the bottom, it is easier to dismantle and replace the sealing ring if you remove the whole assembley from the block, and service it on the bank/bench. (remove the two bolts - visible in the photo below)

27 Re-built Engine-blue.JPG

Edited by David Schweizer
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On 20/05/2017 at 08:28, pete sedgwick said:

Hi all. I am getting my boat ready for the holiday. 

I need to change the oil as it is the oil that has been in the engine since before I bought the boat.

Where is the drain plug?.

Can any one help.

It's a bmc 1500 engine.

Has all the advice offered helped you resolve your problem? Some feedback is always apreciated after assistance is requested and recieves responses.

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1 hour ago, pete sedgwick said:

Hi. I see that you and I were thinking the same.

I have followed the pipe back to where the tap would have been but it goes into a filter

This makes no sense to me for a 1.5 DIESEL.

What pipe, What filter, photo?

Something seems very odd here.

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4 hours ago, pete sedgwick said:

David  schwiezer sent a photo of abmc1500. To me in order that  I could see where the drain bolt is.

 

If its either photo posted above  by David then they both look to me as if they have the pressed metal automotive sump on. A cast marine sump may be different.

The only reason I can think of why a pipe running from the sump plug (if that is what you mean) would lead to a filter is if someone has made a bodgy attempt to fit an after-market bypass filter but as the engine already has a more than adequate full flow filter that makes little sense unless its an even more bodgy attempt to fit a remote filter.

Something does not seem to be correct. I think a photo is now vital.

 

PS just checked your profile and see you come from Stallham. If this is a Broads built boat and marinisation then all bets are off, especially if Richardsons have been involved at one time.

 

PPS I suppose the "filter" could be an engine oil cooler but that's not a typical way of plumbing them only a photo or a visit to the boat by someone who knows can help sort it out.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

If its either photo posted above  by David then they both look to me as if they have the pressed metal automotive sump on. A cast marine sump may be different.

The only reason I can think of why a pipe running from the sump plug (if that is what you mean) would lead to a filter is if someone has made a bodgy attempt to fit an after-market bypass filter but as the engine already has a more than adequate full flow filter that makes little sense unless its an even more bodgy attempt to fit a remote filter.

Something does not seem to be correct. I think a photo is now vital.

 

PS just checked your profile and see you come from Stallham. If this is a Broads built boat and marinisation then all bets are off, especially if Richardsons have been involved at one time.

 

PPS I suppose the "filter" could be an engine oil cooler but that's not a typical way of plumbing them only a photo or a visit to the boat by someone who knows can help sort it out.

You are quite correct Tony, it is a pressed steel sump. When the engine was re-built, the engineer planned to fit a more robust sump, but the fixing holes on the one he had did not line up, so the original had to be cleaned up and re-fitted.

Edited by David Schweizer
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I doubt it matters for an inland boat where the engine is rarely run at high power for anything more than a few minutes but the cast sumps hold more oil and probably help with the oil cooling. If my suspicions as to where the OP's boat or engine came from are correct I think he will have the pressed sump as well. I mentioned that the sumps were the automotive ones in case he has the marine one and it has the oil drain in a different place.

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8 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

If its either photo posted above  by David then they both look to me as if they have the pressed metal automotive sump on. A cast marine sump may be different.

The only reason I can think of why a pipe running from the sump plug (if that is what you mean) would lead to a filter is if someone has made a bodgy attempt to fit an after-market bypass filter but as the engine already has a more than adequate full flow filter that makes little sense unless its an even more bodgy attempt to fit a remote filter.

Something does not seem to be correct. I think a photo is now vital.

 

PS just checked your profile and see you come from Stallham. If this is a Broads built boat and marinisation then all bets are off, especially if Richardsons have been involved at one time.

 

PPS I suppose the "filter" could be an engine oil cooler but that's not a typical way of plumbing them only a photo or a visit to the boat by someone who knows can help sort it out.

Ha Ha I have a Richardsons boat and they are proper bodgit and scarper engineers!! so I second what Tony says

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On 25/05/2017 at 10:01, Tony Brooks said:

 

If its either photo posted above  by David then they both look to me as if they have the pressed metal automotive sump on. A cast marine sump may be different.

 

I'm pretty sure mine is a pressed steel one, but still has a sump pump attached to the drain plug hole.

I am also puzzled at Pete's assertion that his pump pipework goes to a filter.

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So far Pete has not clarified his post or given us a photo.

I am not sure if the pipe he is on about runs from a sump pump to what he describes as a filter, from the sump PLUG to what he describes as a filter, or he has the wrong pipe and its probably a fuel pipe.

We can't give any help unless the OP cooperates and gives us the info we need but the lack of such cooperation and feed back is regrettably common on here.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

So far Pete has not clarified his post or given us a photo.

I am not sure if the pipe he is on about runs from a sump pump to what he describes as a filter, from the sump PLUG to what he describes as a filter, or he has the wrong pipe and its probably a fuel pipe.

We can't give any help unless the OP cooperates and gives us the info we need but the lack of such cooperation and feed back is regrettably common on here.

Don't hold your breath.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 07:03, Zanussi said:

Some brilliant info, thanks all, I was about to dump my oil into the bilge and fish it out with old towels  :o  now ordered an oil extractor from E Bay for £13.

Oil Extractor.png

Thanks for the advice..

I Got one of these and it has done the trick.

I would also like to thank David and tony for  their  help.

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