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Anyway to install big solar panels without drilling?


Tara1234

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Just now, WotEver said:

Yes. You run your 12V items from the boat leisure batteries and you charge the batteries with a charger fed by a genny when you don't have enough solar (Nov-March). As previously noted you need some kind of battery monitor to know when you MUST start charging (as opposed to guessing) and, just as important (for your wallet), when to stop charging. 

Right so I have 6 75 ah batteries. I also have an 8 amp charger (8X12v = 96W), my generator is about 1kw I think. Would it be better to get 5 more of these chargers and some extension leads and charge up all 6 at the same time (96W X 6 = 576 so roughly half load). Or would I be better off charging them one by one? 

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My engine is an outboard petrol 15hp also came with a little camping generator. In regards to petrol not being effecient do small diesel ones exist. Iv only been able to find ones at about 4KWs, to make that effeciant at 1/2 load I would need 2000W of charger which would be a 160 AMP charger meaning a battery bank of 1600 amp hours (Not even sure I could fit that ammount of batteries on my boat)

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If you get enough surface area, and the paint isnt totally shot, a decent PU based adhesive (sikaflex/tigerseal/etc) will be as good as drilling and tapping without the need for creating holes and hence leak paths. Deckhead leaks are a pain and very common.

You can get the plastic brackets as used in the earlier photos, or you could get some metal brackets online or bent/welded up to your design and use them. You can also get semi flexible panels that will bond directly to the roof.

 

Daniel

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Tara 

Are from the United States ? I notice that in your OP you refer to " Living in London , UK "' . Weirdly , most folk on this forum will be aware of its geographical location . It seems to be one of those US " news " channel abominations.

. I seem to remember a Bill Bryson book commenting on this practice and being embarrassed by it . Also as it is indeed part of the UK its winters and the amount if light available during them is much the same as elsewhere in the UK . 

Meanwhile , back on topic .

I have a 58 ft narrowboat . I wouldnt put panels of your sizes on my boat . For me theyre too big . Though im sure many other boaters would fit them . 

I have 4x100 W panels . These are fitted into self made frames that are formed using decking planks . This ensures that all the panels are level and even . It works well and has been on my roof 4 years . 

In winter i run no generator . I detest them , for me they the work of the devil . My entire electrical needs are met by solar all year round . 

HOWEVER- i use electricity from my 4x 110 ah battery bank in different ways at different times of year . In winter i do not run a fridge . Its cold outside and by shopping for food wisely , a fridge becomes not necessary ( for me - its an opinion ) .

With such a small boat i think u would be wise to spend the summer asking yourself " what can i do to minimise my  electrical consumption in winter when solar is less reliable " ? 

Fridge off ( this single bit of kit is probably the single most power hungry item onboard ) LED lighting . Charge computers etc at work , at coffee shops etc etc . All of these little alterations will help . 

Where on earth do u store a genny & its petrol on such a small boat ? I cannot imagine where that would be done safely . Do not underestimate the dangers with such equipment . 

For me , its all about making adjustments. If one is minted and has a big boat then its possible to make the boat fit around the owners " wants & needs " . If the boat is small and its owner is not minted then instead of altering the boat you have to alter your own " wants and needs " . Get it wrong and you ll be changing batteries regularly - an expensive chore . 

Once you have your panels fitted you need to monitor the " health " of your batteries . I use a " smartgauge " to do this . Its simple to fit and to operate . It instantly tells me how my batteries are doing . In winter i use its readings to judge my battery power consumption so that i do not over use thier capacity . Not cheap , but not onerous neither at around £125 . I would not be without one personally though other models and makes are available. 

You have the summer to fit such equipment and get used to it before winter arrives and by that time you are likely to be more aware of the thing you can do to keep your boat & batteries functional . But it is likely that YOU will need to think hard about what steps you can take to enable the batteries to provide for thru the winter .

cheers

Edited by chubby
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I always thought a magnetic mounting system would be good. These countersunk neodymium magnets would do the trick:

http://www.first4magnets.com/countersunk-magnets-c41?gclid=CjwKEAjwr_rIBRDJzq-Z-LC_2HgSJADoL57HgbEm6YLHT2Fiy_c33nRGoPj2Ag-FRgrBrtk_Pdm78BoC2yPw_wcB#

Although it would probably look like the panel wasn't attached so might encourage chancers to try their luck. There is value in making something look like it can't be moved to avoid that happening.

 

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6 minutes ago, Jambo said:

I always thought a magnetic mounting system would be good. These countersunk neodymium magnets would do the trick:

http://www.first4magnets.com/countersunk-magnets-c41?gclid=CjwKEAjwr_rIBRDJzq-Z-LC_2HgSJADoL57HgbEm6YLHT2Fiy_c33nRGoPj2Ag-FRgrBrtk_Pdm78BoC2yPw_wcB#

Although it would probably look like the panel wasn't attached so might encourage chancers to try their luck. There is value in making something look like it can't be moved to avoid that happening.

 

Mine are attached with pot magnets, but to a steel narrowboat roof, been fine for years

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