Design Software

[Alan de Enfield]

It may be an opportune time to just mention that 'towpath' is (normally) on one side of the canal only.

In many places it is impossible to 'turn' a NB around without travelling some miles to a 'winding hole' and then cruising back to where you wanted to moor - the next day you will then have to cruise back (the way you came) until you get to another winding hole, - turn - and then head back in the direction you actually want to go.

 

With your proposed method you will be spending many hours just trying to find somewhere to 'turn' to be able to de-mount your bike.

Rather than permanently attaching ramps and 'plates' I would suggest that you make the whole mechanism 'ambidextrous' and have it so it can mount into sleeves / collars / brackets on either side of the boat.

By pivoting the ramp actually on the bow (right at the centre line of the pointy-bit) you can swivel it either side.

Unfortunately your 'front door' is likely to be unusable.

[Graham Davis]

12 hours ago, efanton said:

have done some proper drawings on paper, but knocked this up just to give people and idea of what I was thinking. 

ramp to tow-path obviously goes vertical on a hinge,  but the flat plate beside also goes vertical against the forward bulkhead.  once the bike is wheeled on to the I-beam and strapped down the I-beam will then rotate forward to free up some space on the bow deck

 

Will endeavour to do proper drawing with the software suggested, and once complete will post a link for anyone else that might want to use then.

1/ What happens when the tow path is the other side?

2/ How long is your bike? 

3/ How high is your bike? If it is going to be higher than the front of the boat you could be heading for problems.

4/ How do you intend to secure the bike to the I channel?

5/ How do you intend to have access to the well deck at the front?

[efanton]

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1/ What happens when the tow path is the other side?

that's something I am going to have to live with.  Not ideal, but its either a choice of the motorcycle being allowed to take up the entire well deck, or using my idea that's a compromise of making half the well deck available once the bike is stored and only loading/unloading the motorcycle from one side.  It will take a certain amount of additional planning when cruising. Having said that it is my intention to have a permanent mooring in a marina where I will be more or less permanently resident for 6 months of the year.  The motorcycle is to enable me to continue work so is an absolute must, but not a daily requirement when cruising.  If it comes to the choice of motorcycle or narrow boat then Im afraid the whole idea of owning and living aboard a narrow boat goes straight out the window.

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2/ How long is your bike? 

GSX 600F so your standards sports bike.

Overall Length: 2,135 mm (84,1 in).  This is the extreme length measured from back of rear tyre to front of front tyre.

Wheelbase: 1,470 mm (57,9 in) .  5' 8".  This was the reason why I wanted to draw this out properly in the first place.  I'm pretty sure I have my measurements right, but clearances will be fairly tight.  As there will be a small chunk removed from one gunwale in order to install a ramp this means that the extreme length of the bike is not a problem.  the wheel base will be at the same height as the gunwale cut so allowing the wheel base measurement to be used and not having to worry too much about the overall length.  Simply turning the front wheel while the bike is on the side stand shortens the distance by about a foot

 

 

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3/ How high is your bike? If it is going to be higher than the front of the boat you could be heading for problems.

Overall Height: 1,195 mm (47,0 in)

This include screen which can easily be removed.  Cabin ceiling will not be lower than height of bike.

 

 

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4/ How do you intend to secure the bike to the I channel?

Straps.  Exactly as you would on a bike lift in a garage.  (there will be a plate to support the side stand).  For security to prevent theft a chain will be used around the bike frame and one link of this welded to the I-beam

 

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5/ How do you intend to have access to the well deck at the front?

as described in my post. the I-beam rotates on a hinge so once the bike is secured the I-beam can be hinged so that the bike is facing forward.  This should free up about half the well deck.  Obviously the front door on the bow bulkhead will have to be to the opposite side of the ramp but if I have my measurements right there's room for at least a 2 foot wide (or very close to that) door.

 

 

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Edited May 17, 2017 by efanton

[Graham Davis]

Good luck with it!
One suggestion: cut a piece of plywood to roughly the outline of the bike and try it for fit.

[Alan de Enfield]

5 minutes ago, Graham Davis said:

Good luck with it!
One suggestion: cut a piece of plywood to roughly the outline of the bike and try it for fit.

As once you turn your front wheel to 'fit it in' you are immediately making the bike 2 foot (?) wider at a 'low level' and at the narrowest part of the boat (Handlebars would obviously be above the Gunwhales)

 

In a 'previous life' I was involved in the design and building of Exhibition stands at the likes of the NEC.

The theoretical shapes and sizes drawn out on the CAD NEVER worked in practice.

The line drawings NEVER worked in practice.

The use of little models of table & chairs NEVER worked in practice.

The 'gap' between a wall and a table was never big enough to actually walk thru'

 

It is easy to forget that both objects and the things they interact with are all 3 dimensional - leaving space for a chair to be pulled out from under a table and also allowing for a 'person'  to slide in can only really be achieved 'in practice'.

I think it will be the same with your bike. if keeping the bike makes or breaks the project then it may be worth building a full size 'front end' and trying various things before you commit to a 'build'.

Edited May 17, 2017 by Alan de Enfield

[efanton]

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As once you turn your front wheel to 'fit it in' you are immediately making the bike 2 foot (?) wider at a 'low level' and at the narrowest part of the boat (Handlebars would obviously be above the Gunwhales)

Width is not an issue.  Turning the front wheel will definitely not make the bike two feet wide. In fact at maximum lock only a few inches wider than fairings around engine of bike.

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In a 'previous life' I was involved in the design and building of Exhibition stands at the likes of the NEC.

The theoretical shapes and sizes drawn out on the CAD NEVER worked in practice.

The line drawings NEVER worked in practice.

The use of little models of table & chairs NEVER worked in practice.

The 'gap' between a wall and a table was never big enough to actually walk thru'

 

You were obviously a crap designer  (joking)

Obviously when drawing you must consider the things that might not be in the plan or on the drawings.  For instance can I man handle the bike if its in this position? What will it obstruct? will I be able to safely get passed the bike?  If you draw plans and do not account for additional space needed for people to move, or mechanisms to properly function in the real world, then your plan was wrong in the first place.  It not that "The line drawings NEVER worked in practice" its that the person putting together the plan or drawings never worked properly or did his job correctly. 

The reason why I am putting so much time and effort into this is to be sure the idea is practical in the real world and will work BEFORE I start spending serious amounts of money. The choice for me is really simple, a tug deck just big enough to store a bike with no access to the cabin area from the bow of the boat, or a solution such as I am thinking.  Ideally I would like the use (or at least partial use) of the bow deck if for no other reason that its at least an emergency exit in a fire or emergency.

 

 

 

[efanton]

40 minutes ago, Graham Davis said:

Good luck with it!
One suggestion: cut a piece of plywood to roughly the outline of the bike and try it for fit.

have done something similar already, using lengths of rope on the lawn.  Problem with this is you are looking at things in a two dimensional fashion and what obviously works here might not work really work in a real world environment  that is three dimensional.  But yes a mock up is probably a sensible step in the process before I start spending money.

Edited May 17, 2017 by efanton

[ditchcrawler]

Saw this today