Wood Burner Repair

[Laurie Booth]

My cast iron wood burner needs the back plate (where you could put a flue) gluing back on.

So I need a glue that will stick metal to metal which will withstand the high temperature of the stove.

[mross]

Molten metal, ie welding, does the trick; but these plates are normally bolted on?  And welding cast iron is tricky/risky as you might cause cracks.  Do you know the make and model of your stove?  Sometimes there is a nameplate on the back or bottom.  On my stove its on a chain which makes it easy.

Edited May 12, 2017 by mross

[rusty69]

4 minutes ago, Laurie.Booth said:

My cast iron wood burner needs the back plate (where you could put a flue) gluing back on.

So I need a glue that will stick metal to metal which will withstand the high temperature of the stove.

Does it not bolt on? 

[bizzard]

They are often bayonet fitting. Offer up into the tapered slots  and turn clockwise an inch or so when it should tighten up.

[mross]

You could weld a couple of studs on and bolt a strongback from the inside.  Add some fire rope to make it gas tight.

[rusty69]

A couple of threaded tabs that clamp the plate(similar to morso squirrel collar clamps) could also work. 

[mross]

There are superglues that will withstand high temperatures but I think it too risky to use them for what you want as the plate falling off could lead to your asphyxiation.

[bizzard]

 Cast iron is treacherous stuff unless there's plenty of nickel in the mix which there won't be for a stove. Stoves like the Morso Squirrel have horrible wafer thin panels. very delicate and can easily crack like a carrot if treated with any force.

[mross]

1 minute ago, bizzard said:

crack like a carrot if treated with any force.

What have you been doing to a poor carrot?  You brute.

[Laurie Booth]

43 minutes ago, mross said:

Molten metal, ie welding, does the trick; but these plates are normally bolted on?  And welding cast iron is tricky/risky as you might cause cracks.  Do you know the make and model of your stove?  Sometimes there is a nameplate on the back or bottom.  On my stove its on a chain which makes it easy.

Sorry don't know at the moment the make of stove. The plate had screws to secure it on but now corroded away on the plate and stove.

44 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Does it not bolt on? 

No it was using screws.

[Laurie Booth]

36 minutes ago, bizzard said:

They are often bayonet fitting. Offer up into the tapered slots  and turn clockwise an inch or so when it should tighten up.

No bayonet.

[mross]

Well, I asked because I was going to search for the manual and see the original arrangement and if spares were available.  If it were me, I would take the closing plate to a small engineering company and ask them to weld or braze some studs on.

[bizzard]

1 minute ago, Laurie.Booth said:

Sorry don't know at the moment the make of stove. The plate had screws to secure it on but now corroded away on the plate and stove.

You could drill and tap a couple more.  Cast iron is easy to drill and tap.

[Laurie Booth]

34 minutes ago, mross said:

You could weld a couple of studs on and bolt a strongback from the inside.  Add some fire rope to make it gas tight.

Welding beyond me.

[Laurie Booth]

3 minutes ago, bizzard said:

You could drill and tap a couple more.  Cast iron is easy to drill and tap.

Not easy for me but appreciate the help. Glue if made would be the answer for me.

[bizzard]

4 minutes ago, Laurie.Booth said:

Not easy for me but appreciate the help. Glue if made would be the answer for me.

Trouble with glues is, getting the mating parts scrupulously clean to bare metal. any crud, rust or even light rust and glues will have a job sticking.

[mross]

Concorde was held together with glue but they did use it under optimum conditions.  I strongly urge OP not to use glue!

[bizzard]

7 minutes ago, mross said:

Concorde was held together with glue but they did use it under optimum conditions.  I strongly urge OP not to use glue!

So was the Mosquito.  2 part Epoxy glue  I think was invented specially for the job. It would have fallen apart in the rain or after a heavy dew if they'd used the old  horse hoof glue or marmalade or jam

Edited May 12, 2017 by bizzard

[Neil Smith]

You could drill through the rusty screws then use nuts and bolts.

neil

[Machpoint005]

These fixes are all very well, but if the screws have corroded is the OP ever going to get the stove gas-tight, ie safe?

[Laurie Booth]

1 hour ago, mross said:

Concorde was held together with glue but they did use it under optimum conditions.  I strongly urge OP not to use glue!

Caution noted, I'll have to get my thinking hat on. The strange thing is no smoke comes out of the hole. I only found the hole when I decided to clean the back.

[David Mack]

1 hour ago, Neil Smith said:

You could drill through the rusty screws then use nuts and bolts.

neil

With penny washers on the inside if necessary to clamp the plate to the main stove back.  Put plenty of fire cement between the plates before tightening the bolts to ensure an airtight seal.

Edited May 12, 2017 by David Mack

[ditchcrawler]

30 minutes ago, Laurie.Booth said:

Caution noted, I'll have to get my thinking hat on. The strange thing is no smoke comes out of the hole. I only found the hole when I decided to clean the back.

We had the same thing on a Squirrel, the plate was spotted at the back of the stove

[Glynn]

You could use a disc of thick steel with a bolt welded on and a slightly larger plate to act as a washer ( bigger than the hole) on the inside, then bolt it up with rope or sealant.

[ditchcrawler]

Is it like this https://www.stovespares.co.uk/spare-parts-diagram_Coalbrookdale-Little-Wenlock-multi-fuel-stove_69.html

or

https://www.stovespares.co.uk/spare-parts-diagram_Morso-Squirrel-Standard-multifuel-stove_80.html