Drive plate

[GunnaDo]

I have a Beta 43 with PRM150 D2 gearbox. I'm just about to change the drive plate rubbers.

Does anybody know whether there is enough room to get the plate out by just removing the box or does one need to take it of complete with bellhousing?

cheers

Graham

Edited April 24, 2017 by GunnaDo
For spelling!

[Iain_S]

Can you actually remove the gearbox without the bellhousing?

On ours, the bellhousing is attached to the gearbox by bolts accessed through the front of the bellhousing, which is obviously not possible with the bellhousing bolted to the engine.

[larryjc]

Did this a while ago with a 150 on a Nanni and had to take off the bellhousing as the plate was too big for the hole at the back of the bellhousing.  I wouldn't be surprised if the Beta isn't the same.  Also there is one gearbox to bellhousing bolt that is an absolute sod to get out as it won't screw all the way out. It fouls the gearbox casing itself, so you have to remover the other bolts and loosen it off as much as possible and the pull the box back and do it again - I didn't replace it.  Even PRM agreed it was a silly design when I rang them and said its fine without it.  Because of access I had to remove gearbox first and then bellhousing, if you can get the whole lot off without splitting them I would suggest you try.  Oh and a PRM bloody hurts when you drop it on your finger!!

[Onewheeler]

On our old engine (BMC 1.8 and PRM 120 but the drive arrangement, bell-housing etc is the same as our newer Beta 35) it was fairly easy to undo the bellhousing bolts and slide back the whole lot on the propshaft. Depends how much exposed shaft you have between bearings and stern gland, layout of bearings etc. whether that's feasible for you. Once pulled back it was pretty straightforward to do the necessary.

[GunnaDo]

Thanks for replies. It looks like it will be the bellhousing then. Can't just slide it back as I have a Python drive just to complicate things. Not a major problem but I was hoping to be lazy!