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Lost 12v power

RichM

By RichM
in Boat Equipment

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RichM Experienced

RichMDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

So today we replaced the battery bank but since then we now have no 12v feed going in to the boat for some strange reason, so we've lost the use of the water pump, fridge, radios and lighting. Though the engine will start and the battery gauge reads full and the inverter works... Everything was reconnected to the same terminals on the new bank. Have checked the isolators and the trip switches. 

Any suggestions as to where we should look?

Cheers

Rich

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

Posted
Posted (edited)

1) Presumably the engine start is not via the domestic battery bank (ie a separate starter battery)

2) The battery gauge should be connected directly to the battery (ie not passing thru the isolator switch) and is working.

3) The inverter should be connected directly to the batteries (ie not passing thru the isolator switch) and is working

4) All the 'accessories' (Fridge, radio, lighting, pumps etc) should be wired thru the isolator switch and are not working.

 

I would suggest that the fault is somewhere around the isolator switch for the domestic bank - if it is one of the 'cheap, red plastic key' type they fail very regularly and you may have disturbed it during your re-wire.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Arthur Marshall Veteran II

Arthur Marshall

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

SNIP

I would suggest that the fault is somewhere around the isolator switch for the domestic bank - if it is one of the 'cheap, red plastic key' type they fail very regularly and you may have disturbed it during your re-wire.

Mine's on a "cheap red plastic key" and it's failed before - what's the best thing to replace it with?

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WotEver Veteran II

WotEverDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

Mine's on a "cheap red plastic key" and it's failed before - what's the best thing to replace it with?

Just about anything else. This for instance, but there are many others: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/marine-battery-isolator-switch-2-positions.html

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

Mine's on a "cheap red plastic key" and it's failed before - what's the best thing to replace it with?

Just one example - others are available.

 

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/marine-battery-isolator-switch-2-positions.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwz9HHBRDbopLGh-afzB4SJABY52oFMgtIDuCXhRfAgIAnpGVyhPcIZOjh__C5u55IU0th2RoCvBDw_wcB

7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Just about anything else. This for instance, but there are many others: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/marine-battery-isolator-switch-2-positions.html

You have quicker fingers than I - but we agree on a suitable alternative.

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Drayke Rising Star

Drayke

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

1) Presumably the engine start is not via the domestic battery bank (ie a separate starter battery)

2) The battery gauge should be connected directly to the battery (ie not passing thru the isolator switch) and is working.

3) The inverter should be connected directly to the batteries (ie not passing thru the isolator switch) and is working

4) All the 'accessories' (Fridge, radio, lighting, pumps etc) should be wired thru the isolator switch and are not working.

 

I would suggest that the fault is somewhere around the isolator switch for the domestic bank - if it is one of the 'cheap, red plastic key' type they fail very regularly and you may have disturbed it during your re-wire.

No 3.

Should the inverter not have an isolator switch between batteries and inverter, as I thought it was required for BSC? Could be wrong though.

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

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3 minutes ago, F DRAYKE said:

No 3.

Should the inverter not have an isolator switch between batteries and inverter, as I thought it was required for BSC? Could be wrong though.

It is worth reading the BSS - it could save you money and hassle at renewal time.

 

Section 3:6:2

Identify any d.c. electrical circuits bypassing the battery isolator. Check that any electrical circuits bypassing the battery isolator supply the following equipment:  • automatic bilge pumps;  • security alarms (including marine radios);  • fire pumps;  • electronic navigation equipment with memories;  • any other equipment where the manufacturer’s instructions indicate or specifically require direct connection to a battery, such as diesel-fired central heating boilers; • battery charger outputs; • inverters or combination inverter/chargers; • solar panels and wind turbines.  Check electrical circuits supplying any equipment on the specified list, and which bypass a battery isolator, for the presence of a fuse or circuit-breaker, where the circuit can be seen

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Drayke Rising Star

Drayke

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

It is worth reading the BSS - it could save you money and hassle at renewal time.

 

Section 3:6:2

Identify any d.c. electrical circuits bypassing the battery isolator. Check that any electrical circuits bypassing the battery isolator supply the following equipment:  • automatic bilge pumps;  • security alarms (including marine radios);  • fire pumps;  • electronic navigation equipment with memories;  • any other equipment where the manufacturer’s instructions indicate or specifically require direct connection to a battery, such as diesel-fired central heating boilers; • battery charger outputs; • inverters or combination inverter/chargers; • solar panels and wind turbines.  Check electrical circuits supplying any equipment on the specified list, and which bypass a battery isolator, for the presence of a fuse or circuit-breaker, where the circuit can be seen

Thank you. We live and learn.

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