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Timber for galley worktop, Sapele ?


W+T

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At this stage now on fitting out the boat :)

 

I am after a solid wood worktop for the galley, not the blockboard type but a one piece.

 

I am using Sapele for a little cladding and was wanting to use it for the worktop but i read that it can bow/warp when used in large sheets.

 

Has anybody used Sapele in a large sheet and it has been ok, this worktop will be 120cmx44cmx20mm ( thickness is a give or take but min 18mm ) and a sink in the middle.

 

Welcome other suggestion of single timber worktops that will go with Sapele.

 

Wayne :)

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There appear to be many suppliers of sapele worktops which makes me think that they probably are pretty stable. Particularly the stave and finger joint construction of them will tend to minimise cupping. 

See here for example. http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/information_guides/all-about-deluxe-sapele-worktop-express-nutshell-guide/

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I don't know if you can buy sapele in solid at 440 wide but I'd advise against it. In fact I'd advise against any timber of that width and only 20 thick. I'd think that any species would be prone to cupping. 

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I may well have to go with the staves type in the end. it is just me being picky and wanting a full single grain to it. Two lengths of 220mm wide will be ok as all i can find is 950mm wide max anyway.   

 

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When I first left school, I worked for a specialist hardwood supplier for three years. We regularly had requests for wide boards for work/table tops. The advice was don't, as they won't be stable. That is why manufacturers joint up narrower pieces. 

Personally for a worktop, I would always recommend granite or silestone which is made from quartz. I don't understand why so many traditional boaters disapprove of granite worktops. 

We had wooden kitchen tops in a previous house. Even when oiled regularly, they didn't stay looking good years on. 

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I would like a granite or the likes but as Rasputin says it will be a bit heavy for my boat (cruiser)

Also cost a bloody fortune to get it cut and shaped..

 

Ok i will have to look at the blockboard type worktops. 

Now my worktop has a slight curve to one edge. When i shape the blockboard type worktops will the joints show at all ?

I would guess not but need to ask.

 

this is the template inplace, only difference is the section at the back of the cooker, that is no longer there so squared off.

 

tn_20170121_172449.jpg

 

tn_20170121_172514.jpg

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20 minutes ago, W+T said:

Now my worktop has a slight curve to one edge. When i shape the blockboard type worktops will the joints show at all ?

I suspect that they will. But that gives you the perfect excuse to practise some steam bending with a finish strip of sapele along the front edge - which would look very smart and 'bespoke'. 

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59 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I suspect that they will. But that gives you the perfect excuse to practise some steam bending with a finish strip of sapele along the front edge - which would look very smart and 'bespoke'. 

Don't you think I find enough work for myself lol. 

That is what I was going to do when I was going to use ply and edge it with Sapele.  

It wouldn't need steaming though. The 20mm thick Sapele bent around the Bow easy. 

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40 minutes ago, W+T said:

Don't you think I find enough work for myself lol. 

That is what I was going to do when I was going to use ply and edge it with Sapele.  

It wouldn't need steaming though. The 20mm thick Sapele bent around the Bow easy. 

Well... then why not use ply? A sapele veneer could then look like a single sheet so you're back to where you started but cheaper and more stable :)

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18 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Well... then why not use ply? A sapele veneer could then look like a single sheet so you're back to where you started but cheaper and more stable :)

^^^As above.

I was given a pump of Sapele and used it in a worktop.  despite back bracing it warped and also soon lost its finish. 

'Replaced by a Beach reclaimed school desk top.  Nice contrast, more stable and resists most staining.  Tumeric will turn it a 'charming' yellow for a while.

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Well... then why not use ply? A sapele veneer could then look like a single sheet so you're back to where you started but cheaper and more stable :)

I know i know, its just me and wanting solid wood. 

One thing was that a veneer would damage easier than solid board for a worktop...would it ?

I can get the size i need of solid for the same price as a veneered ply piece Around £60.

I would need to buy a full 18mm sheet aswell for a 4` x 1.5` piece as i dont need any more 18mm, it may come in for a job in the future tough. 

 

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4 minutes ago, W+T said:

One thing was that a veneer would damage easier than solid board for a worktop...would it ?

Difficult to say. Either way I guess you'll finish it with epoxy?

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3 hours ago, W+T said:

I know i know, its just me and wanting solid wood. 

One thing was that a veneer would damage easier than solid board for a worktop...would it ?

 

Yes, but as long as you use a chopping board rather than the worktop for chopping, cutting etc you should be ok

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Iroko is a stable choice, you can often pick up ex laboratory/workshop surfaces to re-finish. I love pitch pine but it might be a little soft for a work top, and it is a little resistant to finishing oils.

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I would suggest that you won't find any plywood with a reasonably thick veneered surface.

I would go for solid 'engineered' wood.  I bought a really thick piece of engineered oak worktop from IKEA.  About 30mm AFAIR.  Nowt wrong with it, except it was a b*gger to cut. B).  Properly sealed with danish oil it should last a lifetime.

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1 hour ago, jddevel said:

Resistant to oil because of the high resin content. I`ve made a replica of a grade 2 staircase in my house and grandchildren, toys and shoes don't seem to have affected it.

 

What wood that be you are talking of ?

 

 

On 4/19/2017 at 09:14, BWM said:

Iroko is a stable choice, you can often pick up ex laboratory/workshop surfaces to re-finish. I love pitch pine but it might be a little soft for a work top, and it is a little resistant to finishing oils.

 

I have found these that should do the job then.

Some may need a clean up with all the chewing gum and snot stuck to them.  A planer will do the job if i can find a good joiners with the gear to do it then a sand down. 

Though a lot of joiners will not touch used wood in case they damage the blades or machinery with old nail etc hidden away in the wood.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172587581015?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reclaimed-Iroko-School-Science-Lab-Worktops-Tables-Full-of-Character-/132162345793?hash=item1ec57d5b41:g:QIoAAOSwzgBY0v27

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

I would suggest that you won't find any plywood with a reasonably thick veneered surface.

I would go for solid 'engineered' wood.  I bought a really thick piece of engineered oak worktop from IKEA.  About 30mm AFAIR.  Nowt wrong with it, except it was a b*gger to cut. B).  Properly sealed with danish oil it should last a lifetime.

Yes that was my concern on veneered ply.

 

T mentioned Ikea as well , we got out kitchen worktops from there, good aswell and olny £35 a length, not wood though the usual laminate. 

Edited by W+T
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35 minutes ago, W+T said:

 

What wood that be you are talking of ?

 

 

 

I have found these that should do the job then.

Some may need a clean up with all the chewing gum and snot stuck to them.  A planer will do the job if i can find a good joiners with the gear to do it then a sand down. 

Though a lot of joiners will not touch used wood in case they damage the blades or machinery with old nail etc hidden away in the wood.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172587581015?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reclaimed-Iroko-School-Science-Lab-Worktops-Tables-Full-of-Character-/132162345793?hash=item1ec57d5b41:g:QIoAAOSwzgBY0v27

 

 

The worst thing about working with iroko is the dust, it's a lot like mustard gas.

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1 hour ago, Murflynn said:

I would suggest that you won't find any plywood with a reasonably thick veneered surface.

Not bought-in, for sure. For a job like this he'd need to veneer it himself. 

However it now appears that he's found some Iroko :) 

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10 hours ago, W+T said:

 

What wood that be you are talking of ?

 

 

 

I have found these that should do the job then.

Some may need a clean up with all the chewing gum and snot stuck to them.  A planer will do the job if i can find a good joiners with the gear to do it then a sand down. 

Though a lot of joiners will not touch used wood in case they damage the blades or machinery with old nail etc hidden away in the wood.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172587581015?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reclaimed-Iroko-School-Science-Lab-Worktops-Tables-Full-of-Character-/132162345793?hash=item1ec57d5b41:g:QIoAAOSwzgBY0v27

 

 

 It`s reclaimed pitch pine with a mahogany handrail.

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