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Side fenders deployed permanently


Proper Charlie

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

Clearly there are plenty of other types of boaters who disagree with the consensus on this forum. I wouldn't do it with a narrowboat in narrow locks but I move a wide boat single-handed and I do leave my fenders down. Useful when coming into moorings and lock landings where (just like fenders), rubbing strakes aren't always in the right place (at the right height). Also useful when you're coming into a big river lock already half full of plastic boats.

Anyway, each to their own. I've been moving my boat with fenders down for over 10 years and never had a problem. I'm not telling anyone else how to move their boat but I wonder if those who are adamant that fenders should never be left down when moving also apply this mantra to their bow and stern fenders? 

 

 

As you say, each to his/her own, but the thread title refers to side fenders which is what people are responding to!;)

Howard

Edited by howardang
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I have a widebeam always on Northern waters with proper very large locks I cruise with fenders down it works for me and in my case they are to difficult to lift when cruising. They do prevent damage to the paintwork in my case. Now my old narrowboat when on toy canals I used to have fenders up as others have said the locks arnt what they used to be ie some aint 7 foot wide and could be very dangerous, so really its boats for courses

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2 hours ago, blackrose said:

Clearly there are plenty of other types of boaters who disagree with the consensus on this forum. I wouldn't do it with a narrowboat in narrow locks but I move a wide boat single-handed and I do leave my fenders down. Useful when coming into moorings and lock landings where (just like fenders), rubbing strakes aren't always in the right place (at the right height). Also useful when you're coming into a big river lock already half full of plastic boats.

Anyway, each to their own. I've been moving my boat with fenders down for over 10 years and never had a problem. I'm not telling anyone else how to move their boat but I wonder if those who are adamant that fenders should never be left down when moving also apply this mantra to their bow and stern fenders? 

 

exactly what is the point of posting several photos of the consequences of careless and/or lazy skippers?  Most of those boats demonstrate a huge amount of pride on the part of the owners, completely spoilt by scruffy side fenders.  Did you ever see a cruise liner, a warship or a merchant vessel with her side fenders down (other than when in port?).

Side fenders are completely inappropriate for any situation where the boat is moving (including ascending or descending locks) and should be reserved for mooring up. A competent lockie (or whoever is operating the lock) should ensure that your big steel boat is secured before any small plastic boats enter, so protecting them should not be an issue for you.

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1 hour ago, Murflynn said:

exactly what is the point of posting several photos of the consequences of careless and/or lazy skippers?  Most of those boats demonstrate a huge amount of pride on the part of the owners, completely spoilt by scruffy side fenders.  Did you ever see a cruise liner, a warship or a merchant vessel with her side fenders down (other than when in port?).

 

It is certainly seen as "bad form" by the sailing fraternity and as far as shipping us concerned there are many ports which would not allow Ships to enter a lock with rubber tyre fenders dangling from ropes. The only exception is where tugs and other work vessels have properly fitted tyre fenders which cannot be torn off easily.

Howard

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2 minutes ago, howardang said:

 

It is certainly seen as "bad form" by the sailing fraternity and as far as shipping us concerned there are many ports which would not allow Ships to enter a lock with rubber tyre fenders dangling from ropes. The only exception is where tugs and other work vessels have properly fitted tyre fenders which cannot be torn off easily.

Howard

I believe it's because the tyre sinks and then could get caught in the lock.

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3 minutes ago, Robbo said:

I believe it's because the tyre sinks and then could get caught in the lock.

That's right. If it does happen it can sometimes be a costly business to fix involving divers etc, not to mention expensive delays.

it is also of course one of the reasons why it's a bad idea to have fenders down when in a canal lock.

Howard

 

 

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1 hour ago, howardang said:

That's right. If it does happen it can sometimes be a costly business to fix involving divers etc, not to mention expensive delays.

it is also of course one of the reasons why it's a bad idea to have fenders down when in a canal lock.

Howard

 

 

I have those "zigzag" type fenders on my barge, much better and float.   They also make good ladders.

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You could of course just make the whole boat out of fenders. Although you get a bit nervous in locks as they do pop easily!

atlantic%2085.jpg

I'm with the "down for mooring out of sight for everything else" group.

Edited by Dingle
  • Greenie 1
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On the Nene and Ouse, I have side fenders down when moving- two moped tyres each side. The reason is that the locks have "safety" chains, at empty and full water levels, which stick out enough to catch the edge of the baseplate and hang the boat up. To make this worse, once the guillotine gate has been raised up to empty the lock, it can't be dropped again, and having had the boat hang up a couple of times when descending, the side fenders keep the baseplate clear.

 

But they're coming off tomorrow as we're going back onto the cut, and they won't be on again when moving, only put on when moored up.

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3 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

small plastic boat, fixed kabelaring, no need for fenders.

 

.............................  google it !!   B)

How high would you suggest fitting it. 

Not sure why that is not just a permanent fixed fender 

Not sure how I would lift it for hurleston 

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4 hours ago, rasputin said:

How high would you suggest fitting it. 

Not sure why that is not just a permanent fixed fender 

Not sure how I would lift it for hurleston 

the kabelaring is always fitted at gunwale level, or at the main rubbing strake if there is an inward leaning bulwark or tumblehome on the topsides..

img_0313.jpg

Edited by Murflynn
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We made the mistake of going into a narrow lock (well 2 actually but the second was because the fenders had dropped unnoticed) with the slim side fenders down and getting jammed in the lock  - needing a hit of full reverse to get the front end back out, followed by a walk along both gunwales to lift them up.

A newbie error that we are unlikely to repeat I hope!

Pleading innocence due to only having ever gone through wide locks before - and many years ago at that!

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1 minute ago, Ratkatcher said:

We made the mistake of going into a narrow lock (well 2 actually but the second was because the fenders had dropped unnoticed) with the slim side fenders down and getting jammed in the lock  - needing a hit of full reverse to get the front end back out, followed by a walk along both gunwales to lift them up.

A newbie error that we are unlikely to repeat I hope!

Pleading innocence due to only having ever gone through wide locks before - and many years ago at that!

It's good to learn from your experiences, but safer to learn from those of others! ;)

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11 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

the kabelaring is always fitted at gunwale level, or at the main rubbing strake if there is an inward leaning bulwark or tumblehome on the topsides..

img_0313.jpg

This rope fendering looks very smart when new but it is an expensive game to replace/repair it if subjected to damage; it needs securing to the hull  at frequent intervals along the rope to keep it in place.  I have seen some amateurish attempts to fit this on  vessels where the boat is subjected to frequent locking operations,  and it can start to look quite tatty after a while, especially as often happens when it has been secured by cable ties which can break or chafe through, leaving the rope unsecured and dangling in bights. It does look good  at boat shows however!:rolleyes:

 

Howard

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1 hour ago, howardang said:

This rope fendering looks very smart when new but it is an expensive game to replace/repair it if subjected to damage; it needs securing to the hull  at frequent intervals along the rope to keep it in place.  I have seen some amateurish attempts to fit this on  vessels where the boat is subjected to frequent locking operations,  and it can start to look quite tatty after a while, especially as often happens when it has been secured by cable ties which can break or chafe through, leaving the rope unsecured and dangling in bights. It does look good  at boat shows however!:rolleyes:

 

Howard

It also doesn't take into account the different heights of lock landings, moorings etc

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2 hours ago, howardang said:

This rope fendering looks very smart when new but it is an expensive game to replace/repair it if subjected to damage; it needs securing to the hull  at frequent intervals along the rope to keep it in place.  I have seen some amateurish attempts to fit this on  vessels where the boat is subjected to frequent locking operations,  and it can start to look quite tatty after a while, especially as often happens when it has been secured by cable ties which can break or chafe through, leaving the rope unsecured and dangling in bights. It does look good  at boat shows however!:rolleyes:

 

Howard

Cable ties at 500mm intervals, pulled tight with PU18 polyurethane adhesive/sealant backing (I used 6 cartridges on a 22 ft boat), while keeping the tension on the rope with a spanish windlass.   It takes a lot to tear that off.  

Including 48mm dia artificial hemp rope, cost me about £160.

 

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