Bootlace ferrules.

[Tom Richmond]

Wiring up 240v ring. Ferrules on the end of each wire, two together into the screw terminal, or both wires crimped into the same ferrule?

[Robbo]

You can get twin ferrules if needed.

 

For me if it was a short junction type cables I would use twin ferrules with cables going out of the box having there own ferrules.

Edited March 31, 2017 by Robbo

[cuthound]

Both cables into a twin entry ferrule as per this link.

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/products/1225208/

[WotEver]

9 minutes ago, cuthound said:

Both cables into a twin entry ferrule as per this link.

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/products/1225208/

Cheaper from Farnell plus they have stock:

http://uk.farnell.com/weidmuller/9037500000/ferrule-twin-entry-2-5mm/dp/1121755

[WotEver]

And they're for 2.5mm

Or should you choose 4mm for 2 x 2.5mm?

[cuthound]

43 minutes ago, WotEver said:

And they're for 2.5mm

Or should you choose 4mm for 2 x 2.5mm?

No, you use 2.5mm for 2x 2.5mm cable, the ferrule accommodates them side by side.

[WotEver]

56 minutes ago, cuthound said:

No, you use 2.5mm for 2x 2.5mm cable, the ferrule accommodates them side by side.

I've never used a double ferrule but I can see that the sleeve would accept two cables with their insulation but will you get 2 x 2.5 down the tube to crimp it?

[cuthound]

The tube on a double ferrule is more of an oval shape shape, so accommodates both cables. The pin goes into the terminal block.

See illustration below.

https://goo.gl/images/zPBCDm

 

Edited March 31, 2017 by cuthound
To unmangle the effects of autocorrect.

[WotEver]

4 minutes ago, cuthound said:

The tube on a double ferrule is more of an oval shape shape, so accommodates both cables. The pin goes into the terminal block.

See illustration below.

https://goo.gl/images/zPBCDm

Now I understand. Muchos gracias:)

[hounddog]

5 hours ago, Tom Richmond said:

Wiring up 240v ring. Ferrules on the end of each wire, two together into the screw terminal, or both wires crimped into the same ferrule?

It's a wonderful phase "bootlace ferrule" - you can really roll it around your tongue.

An alternative is a thin piece of copper pushed in below the screw (above the cables) and screwed down tight. If you get a small offset of thin sheet you can cut it with scissors.

[Chewbacka]

1 hour ago, hounddog said:

It's a wonderful phase "bootlace ferrule" - you can really roll it around your tongue.

An alternative is a thin piece of copper pushed in below the screw (above the cables) and screwed down tight. If you get a small offset of thin sheet you can cut it with scissors.

You could do this, but bootlace ferrules are not expensive, so why would you do this?????????

[hounddog]

Because keeping all the sizes in stock and not losing them is a right pain. And it's generally for something that needs doing now not at the end of a mail order. 

for instance i have no doubles in stock, though in this instance you could probably get two singles in 

[smileypete]

Would have thought single ferrules where reasonably possible would ease testing and modification.

Edited April 4, 2017 by smileypete

[Taslim]

True for 220V stuff on yer 'average' boat and there is usually plenty of room to do it in domestic type fittings.  Doubles are the biizz for low volt, higher amp stuff.

[stegra]

Can't you just twist them together and solder them?  I'm fully expecting a ferocious backlash for even suggesting this but it'd good to know why not.

[hounddog]

my experience is that they can get brittle when soldered copper meets copper but as long as your strain relief is good enough it's fine.  Though again, as Pete says, i'd keep them separate. 

[stegra]

Ah yes, trying to do continuity testing to find a fault is annoying enough when conductors are twisted together, never mind soldered... Or crimped for that matter.

[nicknorman]

34 minutes ago, stegra said:

Can't you just twist them together and solder them?  I'm fully expecting a ferocious backlash for even suggesting this but it'd good to know why not.

Yes you can do. If you want to store up problems for the future! Soldering leaves slightly corrosive flux which, over time, tends to corrode the copper as it exits the solder. And solder is malleable so after you clamp it in the screw, it very slowly shrinks to relieve the clamping force and then after a while you have a sub-optimal connection. So in summary it is not that bad, but why not just do it properly?

[Murflynn]

On 31/03/2017 at 19:03, hounddog said:

It's a wonderful phase "bootlace ferrule" - you can really roll it around your tongue.

An alternative is a thin piece of copper pushed in below the screw (above the cables) and screwed down tight. If you get a small offset of thin sheet you can cut it with scissors.

my friendly BSS examiner told me to cut a short piece of 15mm copper tubing into small segments and use them in the battery terminals.  makes a neat job.

[WotEver]

40 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

my friendly BSS examiner told me to cut a short piece of 15mm copper tubing into small segments and use them in the battery terminals.  makes a neat job.

It's still a bodge though. Not as good as replacing the terminal connections with bolt-on ones and crimping an eyelet onto the end of the cable. 

[Robbo]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

It's still a bodge though. Not as good as replacing the terminal connections with bolt-on ones and crimping an eyelet onto the end of the cable. 

Plus boat batteries tend to have a min of two cables going to the majority of the terminals so the car type terminals are pretty useless anyhow.

[NMEA]

23 hours ago, stegra said:

Can't you just twist them together and solder them?  I'm fully expecting a ferocious backlash for even suggesting this but it'd good to know why not.

Because the use of solder in low voltage AC is forbidden by all the marine relevant regs, and for very good reasons like solder creep, potential hard spots etc. etc.

Edited April 5, 2017 by NMEA
Didn't finish

[Robbo]

23 hours ago, stegra said:

Can't you just twist them together and solder them?  I'm fully expecting a ferocious backlash for even suggesting this but it'd good to know why not.

Solder is not a good physical connection.  If it gets warm or hot it softens and loosens or releases the cable it's holding.

[Murflynn]

10 hours ago, Robbo said:

Plus boat batteries tend to have a min of two cables going to the majority of the terminals so the car type terminals are pretty useless anyhow.

not a problem with the terminals I use.

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311690089721?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

for parallel battery connections I strip the insulation and run the cable right through the tubular bit, then the appropriate colour of shrink sleeve to make new insulation; works a treat on my leccy boat.

Edited April 5, 2017 by Murflynn

[WotEver]

7 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

not a problem with the terminals I use.

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311690089721?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

for parallel battery connections I strip the insulation and run the cable right through the tubular bit, then the appropriate colour of shrink sleeve to make new insulation; works a treat on my leccy boat.

Why not just buy the correct connectors in the first place?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-12V-Leisure-Battery-Terminals-Connectors-Clamps-Car-Van-Caravan-Motorhome-/282304554045?hash=item41baa9a43d%3Ag%3A34IAAOSwA3dYYdZp&_trkparms=pageci%3A6ee9458f-1a40-11e7-a578-74dbd1808988%7Cparentrq%3A3fdb048715b0ab4d97012ae7fffcaf73%7Ciid%3A3